Thoughts on an old throwback, Navarro Vineyards and the Anderson Valley

I’d like to give a quick shout-out to Navarro Vineyards and Winery in Anderson Valley. I’ve been a loyal member for many years, though I rarely visit since I live in Southern California. But in early July, my girlfriend and I planned a week-long trip to explore the California Redwoods—and I made sure to schedule a tasting to revisit an old friend: Navarro.

Before our tasting, we checked into the Boonville Hotel, which deserves its own post entirely. If you’re looking for a true farm-to-table experience and long, lazy afternoons in a hammock with your favorite summer read, it doesn’t get much better than Boonville Hotel.

Navarro—and Anderson Valley in general—is a place where time seems to slow down. You hear the wind rustling through the vines, feel the sun on your face, and take in the golden hills and gently rolling vineyards. It’s a reminder of how wine and nature can still feel grounded and unhurried.

We were treated to a private tour of the winemaking facility, which looks much as it must have in 1974, when the winery was founded. This is a truly family-run operation, started by Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn, and now led by their children, Aaron and Sarah. Don’t expect gravity-flow architecture, precision fermentation systems, or gleaming laboratories. Navarro is a working throwback: steel and concrete tanks, pumps and hoses, manual punch-downs, and the familiar mingling scents of wet concrete, redwood, oak, and fermenting grapes.

The tasting room also feels largely unchanged over the past 50 years—in the best possible way. We tasted through their entire flight of 14+ wines, along with a few special pours. One of the things I’ve always loved about Navarro is the variety: from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir to Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer. The White Roan and Barbera were particular highlights for us. There’s truly something for every palate.

Even more refreshing is their commitment to value. At a time when many wineries charge $50+ a bottle, it’s reassuring to know I can get an excellent Navarro wine for $18 or $20—and even their top-tier offerings rarely cross the $35 mark. And then there’s the personal touch: each biannual wine club shipment arrives with a small, thoughtful gift—sometimes a jar of homemade preserves, a coffee mug, or a wine stopper—along with a handwritten thank-you note. That kind of connection is rare these days, and something I appreciate.

Our visit reminded me of another reason why I’ve stayed on Navarro’s list all these years; it’s a feeling of nostalgia. A visit here feels like stepping back in time—to a 1970s California when things were simpler, warmer, and a bit more human.

Michael Chabon captured this feeling perfectly in a 2017 New Yorker piece, writing:

“Nostalgia, most truly and most meaningfully, is the emotional experience—always momentary, always fragile—of having what you lost or never had, of seeing what you missed seeing, of meeting the people you missed knowing, of sipping coffee in the storied cafés that are now hot-yoga studios. It’s the feeling that overcomes you when some minor vanished beauty of the world is momentarily restored, whether summoned by art or by the accidental enchantment of a painted advertisement for Coca-cola, say, or Bromo-Seltzer, hidden for decades, then suddenly revealed on a brick wall when a neighboring building is torn down. At that moment, you are connected; you have placed a phone call directly into the past and heard an answering voice”.

That’s what Navarro feels like—a brief phone call into the past. And I hope the line never goes dead.

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I have fond memories of my visit in 1976 or 1977 (can’t remember exactly, but there were four wineries in the area at the time). The owner (who had sold his interest in Pacific Stereo to invest in the winery) was hedging his bets, as he had sheep as well as vines. My friend and I went into the house, where Keith Jarrett’s Koln Concert was playing, and later allowed to taste grapes that had botrytis, the only time I’ve been able to do that. One of the best winery visits in my life.

Stopped in at Navarro on my honeymoon in 2010 and have been a fan ever since. Every bottle is good, some are very good, and as you say, the pricing is great. I particularly like the muscat.

I delivered grapes to Navarro from two different vineyards for 43 consecutive years. I worked with only three different winemakers over that time. I sold Cab, Zin, Syrah, Petite and Sangiovese from Eaglepoint…and multiple varieties from the neighboring Valley Foothills vineyard. Ted and his daughter Sarah have been very involved in the day to say operations of BOTH the vineyard and winery. Jim Klein has been the winemaker and default GM since 1993.
The quality of the wines over the years is amazing and incredibly consistent over many different varieties. One of the keys of success is that much of the tasting room staff sits in on many of the blending sessions, since they are the ones in contact with the clients. Many folks in the winery, tasting room and vineyards have been there for decades. There are many second generation workers on the premises as well.
For many years they hired a chef to feed the crews during harvest. I would try like hell to schedule my deliveries to grab a free meal and often sit with Ted and talk about vineyards.
I could tell many stories but just one: one year I left the day after harvest on a hunting trip. I showed up at the winery unannounced to pick up my 10 or so bins. About half of my bins had pressed off skins and stems in them. I was pretty upset at the time, but not long after realized I should have kept better track of my equipment. I will say for years after I began gathering up my bins from all of my clients immediately after I finished picking.

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I have a lot of love for Navarro. Always nice wines, some of them great, excellent pricing, lovely environment, big range of offerings. Very candid with the consumer, too. They were very forthcoming about issues in 2020 - we recently drank a bottle of the odd “Navarrouge” blend that they decided to release that year at a very low price, consisting of lots that they didn’t feel comfortable releasing as their originally intended wines, and it was a very nice sip for the $20 or so we paid for it. And their Gewurztraminer juice is a special treat.

They participated in a Berserker Day and it was a great offering!

I hope they come back!

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My first Pinot love. Still have a bunch of bottles of Deep End and Methode from various vintages back to 2009 or so. Also a bunch of Cluster Select Late Harvest. I still love the fruit profile and style, my only complaint is the lack of acid compared to my favorite Burgs or Sauternes.

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What a lovely post. Thank you.

Yes, very evocative, thanks for sharing in such a lovely post.

One of my first wine loves was their late harvest Gewurtztraminer .

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About 25-35 years ago, a friend and I were driving from SF to Mendocino and we went by way of Anderson Valley. At my insistence, we stopped for a brief visit at Navarro. It was about noon on a Friday and only a nice looking couple was in the tasting room. Ted (easy to recognize) was pouring. He greeted us, pointed to a blackboard listing tons of different wines, and asked us what we would like o taste. I said we didn’t have much time to taste, apologized, and said I would like to taste the late harvest rieslings. He nods, turns to the couple tasting, and says, “oh, a connoisseur!”

True.

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