Last night, I traveled to Seattle from Bellingham for a great evening celebrating birthdays, friends, food, and wine. It was held at Dean’s house. He and Andrew were the grill masters. Perfectly prepared steak with a delicious homemade chimichurra sauce, and some huge dinosaur-looking smoked ribs that looked like brisket. Some of the best beef dishes I’ve had. Mario made an unreal dish with chantrelles and pasta Travis had hand-carried from Italy. Mario’s matcha tiramisu was incredible. There were more great dishes, potatoes, salad, and more, and I never stopped eating for over six hours. I need to train if I plan on going to more of these.
The wines were equally world-class. I’m sure I’m missing some, and it would take hours to write notes on all, so I’ll give a quick synopsis.
2002 Ruinart BdB. My bottle. I made a mistake drinking this rich, textured wine before the lower dosed champagnes. This vintage is showing incredibly well. Big but elegant, brioche, hazelnut, floral note, apple.
Next was Prevost La Closerie Grand Cru Extra Brut LC20, and an other bottle of LC22. I think either Andrew or Mark generously brought these. Great Pinot Meunier, while generous and complex, following the Ruinart for me made them seem a really racy.
Ulysse Collin Pierrieres (dg 07/13). I’m not sure who’s bottle. Great wine, less development than I’d expect a dozen years after disgorgement. I’m not sure it this was an '09 or '10 base, but I’m guessing the latter as it didn’t have 2009 fat.
2015 Vincent Dancer Les Courbins Meursault was sadly gone before I reached the bottle. Despite about 20 people attending, this was the exception. The wines magically lasted, some for several pours apiece.
1959 Moulin Touchais Anjou Blanc; my bottle. Medium to deep tawny in color, with notes of honey, lanolin, butterscotch, toffee, spice, and preserved lemon. A gentle sweetness and firm acidity gave it balance. Mature but still fresh. Really good, but not my best bottle of this (I’m lucky to have tried several). No photo 
but for some reason captured the cork:
Kobayashi Winery Nikko Celilo Vineyard Sparkling. My second time trying this. Raspberry, violet, some lemon notes. Crisp. I think even better in time.
Holy crap, a magnum of 2000 Allemand Cornas Sans Soufre! One of my W’sOTN. Smoky red berries, delicious herbal and floral notes. Stunning bottle. Wow!
1978 Borgogno Barbaresco. My bottle, to commemorate Travis’ birthday. I’ve had much older Barolos from this producer that were quite enjoyable, but this bottle was a disappointment. I handled it as I do all old Nebbiolos: careful decanting several hours before the tasting, in this case a double decant back into the cleaned bottle for travel. It initially showed old and tired, which isn’t unusual for mature Nebbiolo, but unlike others, it never came around with air or time.
On this night, the 1978 Spaniards easily conquered the Italians. While my Barbaresco was tired, the 1978 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Ygay Gran Reserva Especial was anything but. Cherries, oak, earth and leather. Great energy.
All of the sudden, someone I’d just met was walking around pouring a 2008 Cristal Rosé. Powerful and structured, savory. I personally think this vintage needs a lot more time, but wow!
2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges Les Vignes Rondes; another one I missed.
Next was my bottle, commemorating my birthday. 1959 Château Brane-Cantenac. A second growth from Margaux, this had no business showing this good. In appearance, scents, taste and mouthfeel, this felt decades younger than 65. Andouzed a few hours then a quick decant. Sweetly smokey cherries and strawberries, cedar, roses and leather. There are no great wines, only great bottles. Easily amongst my W’sOTY.
2010 Château Lynch-Bages. Lots of promise here. Tight and tannic ATM.
Next was a 2023 Podere Il Carnasciale Il / Kobayashi Caberlot magnum. A collaboration between the two, aged in Mizunara oak barrels. This is a wine you have to try it you see it; just beautiful. I’m not sure what Caberlot is, but it was reminiscent of an elegant Cabernet Franc. I’m guessing it’s the Japanese oak that imparts some of the fragrant incense and dried spices and flowers, as I found the same notes in a bottle of Mizunara-age Syrah and another Cab Franc later in the night.
2006 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte. A year or two ago, I’d fatigued o Sangiovese, but this and a later Felsina cured my burnout. Perfumed, complex, rich. I remember cherry and I thought cigar box, but maybe the bordeaux were encroaching on my senses or more likely my memory.
1995 Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva; Eric’s bottle, which he picked up locally as he’s traveling. It’s been ten years since my last bottle, and I still love it. Quite youthful considering its age and range, with red fruit co-mingling with the tertiary notes. Honestly, considering the price, age-ability and quality, everyone should stash cases of these and forget them for decades.
2023 Kobayashi Winery Cabernet Franc Mizunara. As I mentioned above, the Japanese oak seems to impart beautiful exotic notes. This wine is easy to love, and I’m going to have to get some to go with my 2021’s.
The next wine was Steve’s. 1924 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu. That’s not a mistype of the vintage; so much fun to drink a 101 year old non-fortified still white wine. Only it wasn’t still. The cork looked much younger than the wine, so I think it was reconditioned and topped off, and that resulted in a refermentation. And it wasn’t a mild one; this had as much fizz as the champagnes! I suggested Steve cover the top and shake it, not yet knowing the extent of the bead, and this resulted in a big spray of old wine on the floor. Despite the flaw, I still loved it. Nectarine and marmalade, lanolin. I loved it despite a second flaw in addition to the secondary fermentation. I thought there might be a touch of lactic contamination giving a subtle sauerkraut-juice note, though no one else seemed to notice it even when I pointed it out.
1989 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Scheurebe Auslese. Don’t think less of me when I admit my Riesling knowledge is limited. I definitely don’t have the bandwidth (or the cellar space0 for another obsession, but this was really good. Tropical fruit and lychee, suave stuff.
2024 Kobayashi Cabernet Franc. Rich yet quite light on its feet. Delicious CF, berries, spice and a little pepper to tell you what it really is.
2009 Jiménez Landi Méntrida Ataulfos. Really nice Garnacha. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it showed a more restrained character than most Spanish examples I’ve tried.
2020 Cayuse Syrah Bionic Frog. Andrew’s bottle. So much for the evening’s elegant, restrained theme. A powerhouse of dark berries, herbs, and bacon fat. My first Frog. Not really my style, but easy to see why it’s such a cherished wine.
2005 Domaine Huet Cuvée Constance Both rich and crisp, and fantastic. Marmalade and other sweet citrus, honeyed apricot. What a night!
There were several more Kobayashi wines, all excellent. An extended barrel aged Syrah, and IIRC a Mizunara aged Syrah, as well as some others. Maybe some of the other attendees can fill those in.
The lineup was incredible, the dishes spot-on, and the company even better. Everything just clicked — one of those nights you wish could stretch on a bit longer.
Thanks again to the host, to the chefs, to Travis and Mario for inviting me, and to the all of the fun and generous guests for an unforgettable evening.
Cheers,
Warren