The Great AUSTRIAN Whites !

Ian has suggested to open a special thread on Austrian whites – so here it is.

First I have to apologize because my participation will be limited cause I´m soon heading towards France for holidays and tastings … sorry.

First the basics:

There are 4 major wine-growing regions in Austria, all in the East of the country (in the center and west are the Alps).

1) Styria (Steiermark) in the South-East, 4000 ha, bordering Slovenia and Hungary. Three sub-regions:

a) Southern Styria, where the majority of the great Styrian whites come from. Beautiful landscape (often called the Styrian Toscany). Best varieties are Sauvignon blanc (world-class level!), Morillon (=Chardonnay),
Weissburgunder (Pinot blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot gris), Muskateller, Welschriesling (young to drink) and several others.

b) South-Eastern Styria (Vulcano-land), famous Traminers around Klöch, good to very good whites and also good reds.

c) Western Styria: famous for the rosé Schilcher, but also good to very good whites.

2) Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) in the North-East (27.000 ha). Eight sub-regions, the most important are:

a) Wachau on the river Danube (Donau), the best terroir for Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, with famous vineyards like Singerriedel, Kellerberg, Schütt, Loibenberg, Steinertal, Achleiten and many others.

Only in the Wachau the three designations are legally possible:
Steinfeder: lighter wines to drink over 1-2 years, max. 11.5% alc.
Federspiel: 11.5 – 12.5% alc. can be quite substantial wines
Smaragd: 12.5+% made from the ripest grapes, dry and capable of aging

b) Kremstal (R and GV) – east of the Wachau
c) Kamptal (R and GV) – North-East of the Wachau
d) Traisental (mostly GV, some R. and others) – South-East of the Wachau.
These 3 regions can produce GV and R almost on the level of the Wachau, but not entitled to “Federspiel”, “Steinfeder”, “Smaragd” … “Reserve” is an often used designation for the best selection

e) Weinviertel – the huge North-Eastern sector (6000 ha) – especially reknowned for spicy „peppery“ GV, but also easy-going daily drinkers.

f) Themenregion (Thermal region, former „Südbahn" = Southern railway),
with some specialities like Spätrot-Rotgipfler (a white wine-cuvee of two grapes!), Neuburger (a bit broad with low acidity).

g) Carnuntum – East of Vienna, also with some remarkable red wines

h) Wagram (former Donauland) West of Vienna: GV etc.

3) Burgenland (castle-land) 13.000 ha in the east of Austria on the border to Hungary, most famous for the sweet wines around the Neusiedler See (Lake Neusiedl) and with the best Austrian red wines.
There are 4 parts, from North to South:

a) Neusiedlersee: sweet wines ! and vg red wines

b) Neusiedlersee-Hügelland (hills west of the lake): sweet wines, but also good whites (Chardonnay, Welschriesling, Pinot blanc …) and reds (Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt)

c) Mittelburgenland (middle B.) with the best Blaufränkisch

d) Südburgenland (Southern B.) with vg reds (Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt)

4) Vienna (600 ha): GV, R, Pinot blanc, Chardonnay and the speciality „Gemischter Satz“ (mixed varieties, vinified together).

This is just a rough overview.
The best Austrian wines are world-class and can compete with all the famous wine-growing regions world-wide: Great Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon blanc and Chardonnay, also Traminer, Pinot blanc and Pinot gris, famous sweet wines (not only Kracher) – and the red wines are getteing better and better!

There are hundreds of fine producers, so in the first step I will not mention detailed names … also because I have only a tiny idea what is available in the US …

Here

is quite a good map of the regions in addition - and the site is in English …

I recently started on a Gruner kick, and have fallen in love with the Smaragd bottlings of FX Pichler and Weingut Knoll. Luckily, I can get the Pichler locally, but have had a hard time finding Knoll. Always looking for other great producers tho

Knoll has become generally hard to find, as has Hirtzberger. That’s one reason (along with $$) why my purchases have been more with Brundlmayer and Schloss Gobelsburg in recent years.

Some of the best known producers in the Wachau have already been mentioned (FX Pichler, Hirtzberger, Knoll - and Gobelsburg, Bründlmayer (Kamptal).

Also recommended Prager, Rudi Pichler, Alzinger, Jamek, Högl, Schmelz, Gritsch, Domaine Wachau … and if available, give a try to Tegernseehof (very lively lighter bodied wines), and
Nigl, Hutter, Unger (Kremstal), Loimer, Jurtschitsch (Kamptal) …

You should check whats available from Styria (Sauvignon blanc, Morillon) in your area … ?

Not to mention Nikolaihof.

Regarding Styria, the supply of Styrian wine in the USA has dropped to nearly zero. I always liked the Muskateller from Styria. I rarely/never drink Sauvignon Blanc, as I do not like the grape, regardless of source.

For the 2016 the supply of Styrian wines will even be more complicated … due to the extreme frost end of April the quantity is often 50-80% less … but the quality can still become fine (reduced yields) if the weather will be favorable in Sept/Oct./Nov.
I think the harvest might hardly be enough to satisfy the regional demand …
(Burgenland had also frost damages … and also the Wachau has been hit → almost no apricots !!!)

By the way, I am sitting in a restaurant in Poland, sipping on the 2014 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Renner, and it is just delicious. I have now had three consecutive vintages of this wine at this same restaurant, and cannot ask for a better wine. This is an overlooked gem of a bottle.

I loaded up on the 2013 of this and the Lamm. Superb wines.

I like Gobelsburg - and also the Renner, really fine GV.
However Grub and especially Lamm is a step higher, but usually better with some bottle age.

(BTW: great that it´s available in Poland … [welldone.gif] )

i just translated the official bad news for the ÖWM – the Steiermark
(and btw they prefer we stop saying Styria;
as Helmut Knall points out, the US militaries could misread it for Syria and unload a few payloads…)
is figuring 25% of a normal harvest.

Lamm is certainly the “better” wine, but I like the price/quality sweet spot of Renner.

I will vouch 200% for Austrian sweet wines and Riesling. TBAs rival any Sauternes coming from France and if pressed to side by side, I will actually choose the Austrian TBA as I am completely enamored of the variety of botrytised wines coming out of Austria both red and white. The Rieslings rival anything coming out of Alsace.

Thanks for that link, Gerhard. Very useful in planning my wine trip.
Alas…looks like I’m not going to be able to get down your way.
Tom

What are considered the best vintages since 2000 in Wachau?

Gerhard, thanks for starting this thread. Excellent information.

TomHill - lots of Austria tips over here. Austria Tips? - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers

Austria is the most beautiful country in the world and for th size it’s shocking how much is packed in to a small place. Enjoy your trip.

Gerhard, we are just starting to get Gemischter Satz here in the US. The 13s I’ve had I liked but the 14s were a bit too ripe. Is that your experience too? Have you tried any 15s?

thank you for starting this thread!!

The last Austrian I opened was the sumptuous 2007 Prager Steinriegl Smaragd Riesling. I was intending to hold onto it longer but the absurdly long bottle kept threatening to fall out of the case in my storage unit. Probably better in 10 years but really good now.

I really like the 2007s now-pretty much across the board. The troublesome 2002 vintage is showing some good wines now. 2013 is of course amazing, but very early days.

#thestruggleisreal