The future of California Cabernet Sauvignon...not positive I like the direction

WINE TALK
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On a wine discussion board where I feel like the majority have palates that lean more old-world, I fully anticipate I’ll not find a lot of agreement here. That’s obviously fine, as a discussion forum should be just that: thoughtful discussion coupled with not across-the-board agreement.

I’m specifically talking about California Cabernet Sauvignon, but the trend I’ll describe appears to be taking hold in other regions too, including my beloved Washington State, although to a lesser extent. More and more winemakers and growers are moving toward a pretty rustic, austere version of Cab Sauv. Labels like Beta, Jasud, [taking out “Mowe” because it’s been shown to be a poor example of the wine style to which my post is referring], etc. etc. (I’m forgetting plenty) are highly popular here for their, “Old world” and “red fruited” and, “high acidity” renditions of Cab. More and more new wineries appear to be heading in that same direction, and I don’t like it!

That stylistic preference and decision is perfectly fine, good for them and many of you, but I’ve tried more than a few them and, I’ve got to say, I just don’t like them all that much. Before I am tarred and feathered for (incorrectly) being a lover of high-alcohol, overripe, blowsy Cali Cabs, understand that’s not the case. I don’t like and don’t want Cali Cabs like so many from the late 1990s. For what it’s worth, I adore Cabs from the likes of William & Mary, Rivers-Marie, La Pelle, and even buy and enjoy Tidings and Palisade Canyon. When I want to drink a Cali Cab, I want dark-ish fruit and enough acidity to keep things fresh, but I don’t want it to smell and taste like a Sangiovese (and don’t get hung up on the grape comparison, as I know it’s not perfect).

I love high acid, crisp Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and even really like the same direction many are headed with Rhone varieties. But not with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Will this trend continue? Is there anyone else who feels similarly? Other thoughts around the general trend in domestic Cabernet growing and production? What wineries fall into the camp I don’t prefer, yet you might, and which tend to be more on the “traditional” side for Cali Cab?

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For what it’s worth, traditional-style old world cabs and the like aren’t having the best time now either - see the dropoff in prices for Bordeaux. The market is just heading for lighter and fresher for a huge variety of reasons, too many to list here. But there’ll always be counter-market wines being made. Partially because a lot of wineries (in Napa especially but also elsewhere) have staked their reputation on bigger, fruitier cab, and partially because all of this is cyclical, and I’m sure that flavor profile will come into vogue again sometime. Maybe not soon, but eventually.

Anyways, as far as what you’re looking for, try out some southern hemisphere Pacific-bordering cab. South Africa, Chile, Hawke’s Bay, you get the idea. I’ve always found that those tend towards more fruit while keeping the acid up.

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There aren’t enough TRB wines out there to satisfy for a lifetime?

There are like a dozen folks mildly dialing it back and not anywhere imo near what old school cab was. Most are plenty approachable now do the most part, even though one might prefer to age them a bit.
I mean even Dunn is fairly approachable in comparison to 20-40
years ago
You should definitely drink what you like, but I don’t think this is the problem you are making out to be.
The issue might be that as pointed out the excitement here tends to lean towards a fresher style

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I presume you mean the fine wine market? Because the broad market is decidedly not moving to that style within red wine categories.

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No, I mean the market in general. Greater interest in white wines, rose, etc.

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Just a question, have you tasted the Mowe Cabernet?

I tasted the 2023 and never once did the word austere come to mind! It was drinking exceptionally well walking the line between red and darker fruit profile, with beautiful florals, tobacco and oak influence while being totally in balance and fresh.

I think you would be a big fan of this wine if you haven’t tried it before!

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Making wine in a more austere style to some degree is a response to warmer weather; I’m not sure a lot of these wines are all that austere, even one of the recent beta wines was 14.5% IIRC

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I thought the same thing when I first read the post.

Details aside, I understand the premise of the topic. WB represents a small portion of consumers and there is plenty of TRB, Mike Smith, Russell Bevan, Melka, etc wines being made/sold. Also keep in mind that most of the more restraint new projects that get a lot of love here are from cooler/mountain sites that enable to fresher style that the producer wants to make. So perhaps sticking to the valley floor is more your style?

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Plenty of Cabs by Mike Smith, Russell Bevan & TRB come to mind that would match your pallet

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Don’t worry Brandon. Those few producers get a lot of interest and hype but there will not in our lifetimes be a shortage of rich, ripe Cabernet coming out of California.

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We enjoy Cab from both Matthiasson and Del Dotto and have a fair amount of each in our cellar. Each fills a different need / mood. Not sure if that comparison exactly fits what you were referencing but makes sense to my less sophisticated understanding of Cab styles.

I think definitely the “food friendly high acid” segment has become more popular in recent years, and more press given to winemakers who fit that style (maybe as a pushback to heavy oak high alcohol style that dominated before?). It has helped us discover smaller producers that aren’t sold in stores where we live and that fit a different mood than heavier Cali Cabs.

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I honestly don’t think that the majority of CA cabs - or WA cabs - are going to abruptly move in a more ‘old world’ direction. I believe that consumers are speaking with their wallets, and the majority of folks, including fine wine lovers, appear to really enjoy the lusher styles of Cabs (and other varieties) that have become more prevalent over the past decade especially. Are there exceptions? Of course - but they are just that. And this board definitely skews at times to ‘the polar opposite of what was popular’ . . .

Cheers

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I think something else that’s interesting is that many of these ‘old world’ style cabs are coming in at lower, but still pretty crazy high, pricing, making them somehow seem like ‘better values’ in the face of outrageously priced cabs out there. Very interesting . . .

Cheers

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I think the really lean cabs are still very rare - also because it’s hard to make great Cab under 13%. It’s a very tannic, green grape that can be unforgiving. A few make them really well, and I personally adore those wines, but I think Cab almost needs to reach a certain ripeness to get out of the danger zone.

What I’m seeing happening in Napa is a reduction in oak influence however, without so much lessening the ripening in itself. I’m all for this - I think part of the problem in the past has been the 200% Taransaud oak extravaganza. There is a monumental difference between a 15% wine with no oak influence and one with 100% new. On the ones I’ve made for my little sub-series PFC, I’ve used only 50% new oak and I know Roy Piper and many others have also reduced their new oak profiling slightly.

I’m very much in love with Cab again and drink a lot of it now - to me, producers like Di Costanzo etc thread that wonderful fine line between electricity and vibrancy, and elegance. I think Cab does very well with some oak, it was just perhaps too much in the past. It’s hard to find that spot, but I’m glad more and more are moving towards that balance.

In summary: I think oak was the problem, not ripeness in itself.

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I think this is true to some extent but not entirely. I think more new oak does not take away from the ‘electricity and vibrancy’ - it simply adds other characteristics. That electricity and vibrancy will definitely be more due to when the grapes were picked and what the alc and TA and pH levels are more than anything else . . .

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Alcohol and flavor are not synonymous.

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There is a time and place (and food) for different styles. I think there is beauty in the richness of a Cabernet that you lose by going too lean and other grapes can fill that void. All that said, I have not had Beta or Jasud, but my personal experience with Mowe does not match your description of wines in the style you do not like.

Lots of black fruit (with red notes too) with balanced tannins annd acidity and not at all austere or lean to me. We are talking about a wine that at oldest is from the 2022 vintage (I have only had the 2023) so I’m not expressing a pop and pour view, but one with the benefit of a long decant. Perhaps that difference in prep is part of the discussion too in terms of wines that are made to open (and pop and pour upon release) versus those that are made to age which might eventually get to where you like them with additional time.

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I agree with the OP, the style is not for me, and I happily just avoid buying those wines. I am not at all concerned, there’s still plenty of market for a variety of styles, including what Brandon describes (which aligns perfectly with my own preferences)

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I am always of the mind that one style isn’t better than another it just depends what mood I am in. I will always have a soft spot for the higher alcohol toasty oak wines that my parents like, but my preferences have changed and I typically always want to have at least a TINY amount of detectible pyrazines in my cabs.

When I do want a high alcohol cab these days I am reaching for Napa/Cali 99% of the time. I don’t think anywhere else in the world makes that big hedonistic style as well as here in Cali. Napa is a neat place because the climate allows one to make both styles if they choose. If I want a leaner Cab I will typically look towards other regions like the Santa Cruz Mountains/Central Coast or Margret River

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