The cycle

WINE TALK
#1

Single:
2005 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie:
13% alcohol; if it weren’t for Chignard and Vissoux, I’d say this was the best 2005 Fleuire. Its close and Diane loves it – and that is worth its weight in gold. In her words; “if I go to the cellar and pick out a Clos de la Roilette wine, I know I’m going to like it.” She’s right, of course – this is vibrantly alive, clearly of its place and goes perfectly with a pasta dish that includes chicken, spinach and feta. Buy it by the case – or wish that you had.

Double:
2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne:
Much better than the last bottle (which was pretty stemmy); no evidence of green here, still slightly disjointed but the flavors are starting to intensify, the texture is smoothing and gaining depth, and the overall showing raises my hopes for continued aging. 12.5% alcohol and it went very well with a vegetable and (turkey) bacon hash. Beginning to live up to its producer’s rep.

Triple:
2000 Gulfi, Nero d’Avola Bufaleffi:
14% alcohol; classic nero nose with plum, chocolate and iron down deep; in the mouth its rich, balanced, the texture of worsted wool and has a long, detailed finish. Not a complex wine but one with enough going on to hold interest and plenty of deliciousness. This variety can be plodding; this bottle is not.

Homer, inside the park:
2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore:
Nebbiolo, done well, may be the grail – that elusive combination of finesse, balance and power that can translate into something altogether remarkable – and so there are ethereal Barbaresco and regal Barolo. And then there is this lesser DOC . . . in the hands of the master and with sufficient time to unclench the fist.
No doubt, this is the most expressive and complex nebbiolo in memory – it has opened both aromatically and on the palate so that now it is the nuance, balance and texture that command attention and not the structure. Dusty, beguiling wine and with Diane’s interpretation of carbonara, nothing could be better.
If you own this bottling in any year (except 2003) hold it for at least a decade; what a wonderful experience will be yours.

Best, Jim

#2

Thanks for the notes Jim. Of the more recent vintages of the Fleurie, which would you most suggest, because I will probably not see the '05 around any more at this point.

TIA

#3

Michael,
I hear good things about 2008 and 2009 but haven’t tried any . . . yet.
Best, Jim

#4

Two of my passions in one note: Baseball and Giacosa!!! [thankyou.gif]

A particularly terrific note on the Giacosa. Well said!

#5

Jim, what an inspiring note on the Giacosa. I love it when “little” wines are such a home run, though this isn’t just any nebbiolo and of course Giacosa isn’t just any producer. Thanks for your nice writing.

#6

I would be a bit disappointed that a $100 bottle of Burgundy is only good for a double.

#7

When I bought it, it was quite a bit less.
Best, Jim