The theme of last night’s Monday Table was ‘Single Bottle’. Michael instructed us to bring ‘that single bottle’ that has been rattling around in our cellars, looking for an event to attend. The resultant night was epic.
1971 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Hors-Série: Disgorged February 2021. Complex notes of toast, truffle, brioche and vanilla. Great intensity, power and drive. Still fine of bead and creamy of mousse. A super salty finish persists for a long time.
1911 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage Collection: Bottle number 156 of 200 released. Disgorged in January 2011. Sadly, just a touch of mouldiness from the cork distracts from a special old wine. Still a bit of prickle from remaining bubbles. Some rancio and cheesy things along with Autumnal leaves and truffle. There’s a nutty/aldehyde volatility. It has something sweet and vinous at its heart. Vanilla spice with air. Chalky finish. What a treat to try.
2004 Remoissenet Père et Fils Le Montrachet, Grand Cru : Pineapple, smoky mineral and sappy orchard fruits. Voluminous and layered. Loads of spice and very long.
1997 Remoissenet Père et Fils Le Montrachet, Grand Cru . Again, freshly cut pineapple here along with some mango. Smoky reduction, menthol and heady blossom scents too. Good depth, layers of flavour. Finishes with detail and is long and expansive. A very good ’97 white.
2016 Domaine Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Very tight and youthful, emitting but a bare whiff of smoky mineral and citrus blossom. The palate is built around a rigid, steely spine. It has fabulous intensity of pure white peach and lemon fruits. It is precise, stony, cool and finishes with such authority and drive. Wonderful wine with so much more in the tank.
2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Rich, opulent and heady. Coconut ice, vanilla, ripe peach, fig, brown spices and candied citrus. So deep, layered and power. Waves of flavour lap around the gums. The finish draws in and is precise, with length to burn.
1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : This is right in the zone. A gorgeous, highly perfumed nose draws you in. Notes of Hoisin, smoked meats, rose petals and aniseed. It is ethereal and silky and possesses real latent power. Nothing is forced. It builds through the palate, fans out and keeps going. A great La Tâche.
1999 Faiveley Musigny, Grand Cru: Bottle number 143 of 149 produced. Still such a deep, vivid colour. Has a core of luscious, liqueur cherry. There are gorgeous purple flower florals and a hint of earth. It is full, rich and opulent, but with a cool stony base. There’s a wonderful line of fine, minerally acidity and length is imposing. Superb wine.
1929 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Teurons : A recent acquisition, direct from the Bouchard cellars. Starts off with some nutty aldehyde and earth and then really builds in the glass. It has vinous sweetness and seaweed saltiness. There’s a strand of licorice too. It is thick and unctuous through the mid-palate and has great presence and silky feel. Length is outstanding.
1945 Seguin-Manuel Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru: So gorgeously perfumed. Light florals, sweet earth and smoked meats. Lacy and layered, vital and detailed. Good volume and dimension and everything is in place. A beautiful, aged Burg at its apogee.
1959 Maison Leroy Grands-Echezeaux, Grand Cru: Meat and leather dominate early and it is a little bretty. There are things of joy that appear with air. Dried flowers, Chinese 5 spice and soy. It is full and velvety with a sweet, vinous centre. Structural elements still support and it is expansive.
1962 Jaboulet-Vercherre Musigny, Grand Cru: Not showing a lot on first pour. Earth and mineral things appear with air and then black cherry fruit concentrates at the core. It has Musigny’s cool cherry stone elements and a lusciousness to the palate. There are savoury/tertiary things that add complexity. It is in a great place and is satisfying and long.
1900 Château Branaire Ducru, Saint-Julien: There’s just a touch of tca here that distracts. Behind the taint there is something vital and complex. Briary fruits, ginger and Indian spices. Really textural and layered. Black olive saltiness.
1928 Château Desmirail, Margaux: A mid-weight, nicely balanced wine of cassis and sweet cedar notes. It has some leather and earth and is still fresh and energetic.
1953 Château Margaux: A perfumed and engaging bottle of Claret. Violets, cedar, tobacco and blackberries. Subtle earthy tones. Elegance with presence. Each sip unlocks something interesting. Fine acid cut and a gentle flex of muscle from the tannins at the tail.
1866 Quinta do Vallado Porto Adelaide Tributa Port: Incredibly complex and sweet. Burnt figs, honey, raisins chocolate and Indian spices. Almost a sweet Muscat feel to it. So rich and layered. Cut with a beautiful spirit. Wonderful volume and presence and really long.
Explorer Liqueur Muscat (bottled 1974): This had a fair bit of 1800’s Rutherglen Muscat in it and boy is it good. Dried fig and raisins, toffee, cola and blackberries. Layered, sweet and intense. Heady spirit contributes florals. Great complexity and incredible palate staining concentration. Length for days.
1893 Barnet & Fils Fine Cognac Champagne: Spirity and Cognacy (sorry, it was getting late).