Tasting story with photos; Vilmart, Dom Perignon, old barolo, chianti and rioja; sauternes, coheita; Arnot Roberts Cab; Chartreuse VEP; with photos

CHARITY WINE DINNER - Bellingham (10/26/2024)

We hosted a wine dinner to benefit Brigid Collins Family Support Center, a wonderful nonprofit dedicated to ending child abuse, educating, and building strong families.

Welcoming the guests; Charcuterie, cheese




I can no longer boast about my sabering skills—I’d never failed until now. The neck ring severed perfectly, but the cork held firm, refusing to give way. Having to resort to a manual extraction was quite the anticlimax to the theatrical setup. Great wine despite the damned stubborn cork

  • NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Rubis - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
    Tart, fruity and energetic. Red citrus (grapefruit, blood orange), cranberry, fragrant flowers. Perfect aperitif with good complexity.

Classic pairing #1; Champagne with Caviar

It was the best of wines, it was the worst of wines. Delicious osetra caviar with creme fraiche, toast points, diced shallots, but best with potato chips.

  • 2010 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
    Sabered to repair my broken ego. Classic Dom Pérignon nose with vibrant citrus and lemon confit, accompanied by reductive notes. An unexpected hint of tropical fruit, making it distinct. Overall, a very good wine, especially for the 2010 vintage, though not the most compelling expression of this cuvée.

Classic pairing #2; Sauternes with Foie Gras

Delicious, though not the best example of this wine

  • 2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Botrytis-driven aromas of honey lead to rich notes of orange marmalade, sweet brown spice, and ripe peach. This half bottle showed less vibrancy than the many previous ones I've tasted. A touch more acidity would have added refreshing cut.

Classic pairing #3; truffles and nebbiolo

Truffles done two ways. Perigord truffle butter, olive oil and parmesan with tagliatelle. Then superb eggs en cocotte with a perfect fresh Alba white truffle

  • 1967 Cantina Terre Del Barolo Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Tonight's bottle was likely not representative. The last bottle I had in 2018 outshined this one by a significant margin.
    I carefully decanted off the sediment hours before the event, revealing a ruby color fading to brown. Fully evolved, with tertiary notes of leather, mushrooms, and earth dominating. No fruit remaining, and the acidity bordered on overwhelming. I appreciate aged wines, but this bottle had little left to offer beyond typical old wine aromas. Recently, I’ve been spoiled by some remarkably vibrant older bottles, so this one felt like a letdown. "You pay your money and you take your chance, when you're dealing with a bottle's last dance"
  • No photo :smiling_face_with_tear:

  • 2006 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Garblèt Sué - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    I had to pivot quickly to replace the tired old '67 Terre del B., so this was popped and poured. Really enjoyable, though barely on the cusp of a good drinking window (better in 5+ yrs). Red and black fruit; ripe with some nice herbal notes.

Flawed, paired with the kitchen sink

  • 1966 Spalletti Chianti Rùfina Riserva Poggio Reale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
    Andouzed. Yikes. The nose was so volatile, it had more nail polish remover than any wine scents. It actually tasted okay (don't ask me why I braved a taste after smelling it), but this was swiftly banished sinkward. You pay your money and you take your chance... (NR/flawed)

Somewhat classic pairing; steak with Rioja, Cabernet Sauvignon

Japanese A 5 Waygu seared quickly on red-hot pan, cut into squares and served on french bread rounds with homemade garlic horseradish aioli. Heavenly, and we're all closer to heaven after the saturated fats hit our coronaries.

  • 1970 Bodegas Palacio Rioja Glorioso Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    The only older wine that showed really well last night. Lots of tertiary leather and cedar, but still fresh with dried red fruit and licorice. Nicely structured and balanced. Uncorked hours before the event (Andouzed), then decanted off sediment and served.
  • 2012 Arnot-Roberts Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Really good Santa Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon. Balckberry and cherry, with some savory botanical (lavender?) notes. Generous yet elegant. I had opened it in case I needed a backup for the old Rioja when steaks were served.

Classic pairing #5; Port with Stilton

A beautiful, creamy stilton from Colston Bassett/Neal's Yard Dairy, Nottinghamshire, England

  • 1978 Krohn Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Great pairing with a creamy stilton cheese. Hazel nuts, dried fruit, toffee. Light enough on its feet that even those who steer clear of stickies asked for more.

Digestif

  • NV Grande Chartreuse Chartreuse V.E.P. Verte - France
    To cap off the evening, I poured a round of VEP Verte for the guests—and myself. This 1984 bottle brought all the hallmark herbal depth, but with complexity and finesse dialed up to 11.

Despite the variable performances of the aged bottles, we chalked up another great night and supported a very worthy charity.

25 Likes

I forgot to mention that all of the older wine vintages were birth years for the participants.

I’ve had-and have-some of those older Krohn Colheita’s and they have never disappointed.

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Saw your CT note on the Suduiraut–shame it wasn’t performing up to its usual level! Terrific lineup regardless, of course.

Off bottle vs off palate. It’s my only bottle of many of that wine that wasn’t spectacular.

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The egg cocotte truffle dish!!!
Wow

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Warren, fantastic dinner and pictures.
How many people attended this dinner?

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If you sabered the glass away and left the cork hanging on, that’s a rarity indeed. You should have spun it as some sort of elite trick. I think I have maybe done this once, but it wasn’t a high-pressure moment. I think I tapped the cork with the saber and it obliged.

Cheers,
fred

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When you comin’ to Colorado again?

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Thank you Suzanne.
Six couples bid on the Wine Dinner at the auction. But I made enough for my son, daughter, her SO, all of whom helped, and for me. Ten total.
Cheers,
Warren

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Fred
I tried that. The theatrical drama just kept turning comedic. The first tap cracked the neck perfectly, circumferentially at the ring, so I just hit it again following through. That moved it about three mm. Several other taps started making glass shards rather than moving the cork. Next, I just tapped the neck trying to increase the pressure. Then I shook the bottle. Lastly, I wrapped a towel around the cork and glass and twisted it out. There was plenty of pressure and fizz; just a freaking stubborn cork.
There’s one other wine I’ve encountered with an incredibly tight cork. 2008 Pierre Peters Chetillons. Every bottle of that I’ve opened has taken a Herculean effort to twist the cork out manually. Not that I’d ever consider sabering one of those…
Cheers,
Warren

Probably this winter, although I may head straight to Vail rather than stopping in Ft. Collins.