T/N: Amazing & Rare Aussie Wines Of The 40's, 50's and 60's!

A fabulous dinner with the usual monthly “Monday Table” suspects that was a bit of a departure from our usual Burgundy theme…(yes, we do occasionally acknowledge there is more in the world of wine than just Burgundy then conveniently forget we thought that for another year or so…).

We were of course missing our star new member, one very slack Jeremy Holmes, who somehow thinks that work comes before wine…Sorry mate, but you missed a cracking dinner with some seriously amazing once in a lifetime wines…


Champagne Starter:

(Seared jamon-wrapped sea scallops, cauliflower puree)


Neither of these is Champagnes is really my style, although no doubt they can be considered as much more of a food style…than an “aperitif” style. Certainly they are both quite stylized.


Selosse Contraste (Solera 1994-2004):
An strong oxidative note that for me detracted from the Champagne. Hard to ascertain it’s age, I thought it to be much older (82??). Not really my style at all as I couldn’t really get past the oxidative note.
86pts

Selosse Substance (Solera 1987-2004):
Fresher looking, with a darker “strawberry” note to the Champagne, and it finishes with good cut. A much better Champagne to drink than the first one, but not exactly my preference of style (again). Anyway, both quite interesting and no doubt with layers of complexity…
89pts



Flight 1: 2005 Chevalier Montrachets:

(Coulibiac of Tasmanian salmon, citrus butter, salmon pearls)


Jadot Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2005:
Sulphur on the nose. Rich, but with good drive, and finished with a slight bitter note. Looked like a Chevalier on the palate, and so it was. The best of this trio, but really only an ok wine. Unbelievably when revealed, I was the only one who picked this as the Jadot. Even more amazingly, it wasn’t premoxed. If you own any, drink it right now…
91pts.

Bouchard Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 2005:
Typical Bouchard spicy oak, and so it was. Perhaps more oak than is necessary, and this points to the Cabotte (I usually prefer the standard Chevalier). Quite fine, with only a hint of ’05 richness to it’s Chevalier like line, and this continued in the mouth to be very linear on the finish, if a little one dimensional. This will improve with time and may develop more complexity, if it doesn’t premox like the ‘04’s all seem to have…
89pts

Vincent Giardin Chevalier Montrachet 2005:
Typical Giradin for me when the choices were revealed. Very pinapple and with caramel nuances, and quite big and richly voluptuous, and finishes with a somewhat hot finish. A bit obvious looking all around and a bit of a mess of a wine really. Not really my style of Chevalier. We all wrongly thought this was an '06 also…
86pts.



Now on to the main attraction!!


These wines are rightly considered legendary. We had some 12-15 year old tasting impressions from one of the members had had done this previous tastings, and as he later commented, most of these wines still looked pretty much exactly like they did then, a true testament to their longevity! The labels are all different, and were apparently printed in the sets of eight (one on each sheet), with eight labels per sheet, and printed on a parchment like paper. Each features a 19th century painting, and they are works of art themselves for sure. These were released in the mid 60’s from Woodleys own cellars, and the labels were designed and attached then.

The overall condition of the bottles was all extremely good for age, and fills were from high shoulder to bottom of the neck. Whilst no mention of alcohol levels is actually made, similar wines at the time would have them placed at around the 12% to mid 12% range. The wines are designated “Claret”, and were a blend of Coonawarra’s two primary red grapes Shiraz and Cabernet, and were made by famous Coonawarra stalwart, Bill Redman.

I have only ever had two bottles of these before (the ’55 and ’56), and they were both pretty amazing, so I decided no scores were in order, as you couldn’t reasonably reduce these to such a trivial thing…

The wines all came contained in the original “Treasure Chest” pack that the ’49- ’52 were released in. Given how few of these we made, and how extremely rarely it is that even a single bottle is ever seen on the market, this could be (and probably was) one of the last complete sets in existence! One of those rare wine experiences that will remain with you forever, and a true privilege, thanks Michael!


(Please note: My notes here, whilst they seem a bit critical, are judging the wines by the incredible standards of the amazing ’49 and ’56. Each wine viewed on their own was a remarkable and totally unique experience…).



Woodley Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Clarets” - 1949 to 1956:

(Roast eye fillet of beef, baby spinach, bone marrow ravioli, sauce bordelaise)


Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” 1949 “A Natural History Vignette”:
Very dark, deep almost black with a hint of red. On the palate, rich, black and ripe fruits that totally belied the wines age (insert Rudy joke here if you wish…). Unbelievably concentrated but still light at the same time, with a core of sweet fruit that was just so amazing, and it was also touched by a bit of choc-mint on the end that made it even more attractive. Long and very fine finish, this would probably be in my top 10 (if not top 5) wines ever tasted. Unanimous 1st placed wine, and a top world class WOTN.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” 1950 “Government House”:
This was similar to the ’49, but with everything on a slightly lesser scale. Not quite as deep or dark, and with less sweet fruit, the wine finished with a bit of lift, and was a touch drying on the palate, seeming a bit dusty. Excellent, but not great like the ‘49. This was the third placed wine, and whilst entering the later stages of it’s life, should still easily hang in there for a while yet.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” 1951 “Terre Napoleon”:
One of the more famous of the wines. Much more weight, and again a black wine. Silky smooth on the entry, then followed with a blast of VA. The palate feel was great, with fresh ripe bright fruit, but the slight varnishy finish detracted from the overall appeal. Deep chocolaty layered fruit underneath, with again a slightly dusty finish. Might have once been great, or maybe there are just better bottles, and whilst still drinking exceptionally well for it’s age, was about mid pack of the wines here.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” 1952 “Captain Cook“:
This was one of the only two wines that actually looked somewhat what you might expect of an Aussie wine this age. Again this was quite marked by VA, was dusty, musty and camphory, with a hint of caramel, and a wine that is definitely on the way out. A faded old dame indeed, but one that would have once been a beauty.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra Claret 1953 “Queen Adelaide”:
Medium red brown to black, and lovely and soft and round on the palate. Perhaps a little older looking than some in terms of the flavor with a slight hint of decay, it never the less had a deep core of sweet old fruit, with just a hint of mint. Lovely drinking, and alone, would have been a stunning old wine indeed.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” “1954 “View in Bathurst Plains”:
Much more bright red than the other wines, this initially looked very promising with an alluring nose, but it possessed a much more light weight and acidic palate. Earthy, chocolaty sweet old Shirazy finish, but lacking the depth of the other wines. The slightly acidic finish made it looked a bit dried out, but still and interesting old wine in otherwise very good shape.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” 1955 “The Galatea”:
Hmmm. Nothing at all like the amazing bottle I had about 10 years ago which rings clear as a bell still in my mind, with layers of deep sweet fruit. This, along with the ’49, is generally considered to be “The” great wines of this group. Unfortunately this bottle showed as quite decayed, with old decayed brown fruit, and with noticeable VA. Still, it was drinkable, and I drank all of mine. Obviously not the best bottle, but with such old wines, this is more than often the case.

Woodleys Treasure Chest Coonawarra “Claret” 1956 “Skeleton”:
After the disappointing bottle of ’55, the ’56 needed to step up to the plate, and step up it did. Classic Coonawarra minty/tobacco/leafy with a core of fruit of great ripeness and depth. Again it was almost dark red/black, and the complexity of the wine was quite stunning, seeming to reveal different facet with every sip. I have no doubt this bottle would have easily lived for another 20 years, and we caught it right at the moment (or perhaps year) before it begins it’s gently and slow decline. Totally sublime, and a world class wine of balance and beauty.



Hard really to follow that amazing bracket, but we still had 4 more historical treasures yet to come…


Aussie Classic Reds - 1946-1967:

(Roast duck & morel mushroom pie, parsnip mash)


1946 Seppelts Great Western Sparkling Burgundy:
Probably the most famous of all the Aussie Sparkling reds made in this unique style, this was made by the great Colin Preece, the father of this style, and made from Shiraz grapes from the Great Western region of Victoria, where such wines are still made. Red brown clolur, with plent of life. There is still a slight fizz, with a touch of prickles on the still very zippy palate. Very perfumed with shiraz earthy spice, yet the fruit is all dark, powerful and slightly earthy and almost port ripe, with the faintest mushroomy/undergrowth notes of great Burgundy. In astounding condition, and this was a real treat to drink such a rare and unique wine.

1967 Penfolds Bin 7 Cabernet/Shiraz:
Wow. This was my bottle, and being a birth year wine I have had it more than a few times, but this was easily the best example yet. Classic old Penfolds in all respects. Deep dark colour, deep dark wine, laden with spicy black plummy fruit, and with a beguiling thread of liquorice running right through the wine. This was still in such magnificent shape that looking at it’s aging curve it presented, you could have easily said it was from the ‘90’s…And yet, at the same time it was fully resolved, and was a wine with class and a lovely balanced finish. Good bottles of this will hold on it’s peak for perhaps 20 years or more before it even starts to decline. In the top 3 wines tonight, and again, absolutely world class.

1948 Yalumba Four Crown Burgundy:
The oldest still dry Aussie wine I have ever had, this was still in pretty good condition. An older style more rustic sort of wine, a real curio of the old days of Aussie wine making. Earthy and spicy shiraz finish of a wine that was complex and interesting, but perhaps just missing that dense core of sweet fruit to make it truly great. A very rare and special wine none the less.

1963 Mildara Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon:
The fourth time I have had this famous wine, nicknamed at the time “Peppermint Pattie” for it’s overtly minty (more a real choc-mint) appearance. I have likened this wine in the past (from two superb bottles) to ’45 Mouton, and the truth is that I have seen it look very similar. This bottle didn’t quite hit the heights, although I did correctly call for what it was it blind. Balanced and very fine, with attractive soft fruit and an overtly minty Coonawarra cabernet note to it. This bottle wasn’t in quite the best condition I have seen it, but the wine was still very good none the less.



We finished with 2 “Stickies”:

(Torta di Moscato followed by a Marmalade brioche & butter Pudding)


All Saints Muscat Gordo Blanco Essence 1948:
This was great. A deep olive/brown rim, thick and nutty/raisny, with notes of teek, tea and some sweetness balanced by acidity. Amazingly deep and complex. Will likely last forever and a truly great experience (and easily 96pts).

Tokaji Aszu Essencia 1968:
This was like motor oil, so thick and dark, you didn’t drink it as much as eat it…reminded me of the 100 year old Seppelts Ports, but even more cloyingly thick. Not really my cup of tea…



A great night I was privileged to be part of with some amazing, historic old Aussie reds that were, all in all, truly world class, and that proved to be an absolutely eye opening experience.

These wines again showed that Aussie wines are now too easily dismissed by many, and they are perhaps more than worthy of some serious consideration as there are still many wines of this quality and style made today. Certainly no “Pepsi” wines here!

Here is an image of the '54 Treasure Chest’s superb label…





I’ve got a few more at work I’ll post tomorrow…

Wow. What a great tasting. I’m not clear on where these rare treats came from. Bought on release and cellared or are they ex-chateau?

Wow, what an amazing oppurtunity! Thanks for sharing those notes and insights. Love that label too!

Thanks, Paul, read with great interest. Would have loved to be there!

Indeed these days most of us forget that there are many great and interesting AU wines.

Very cool stuff. An Australian winemaker of my acquaintance has occasionally schlepped a few mature AU treasures across the pond for certain holiday dinners. and we have always been impressed with how well the wines have aged. I would love to come across a couple of these!

I’m not getting any hits for Woodley’s at free Wine-Searcher:

http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/woodley's+coonawarra

Does Woodley’s still exist?

If not, is there any relationship between the classical Woodley’s holdings and the modern Wynns?

Were their vineyards near one another?

Was there any overlap of the vineyards [in the way that e.g. the classical Inglenook/Napanook is now Dominus & Coppola vineyards]?

Completely stoked by this tasting…thanks for posting this…I always believed aussie has a ton of potential

Lot’s of hits on Ebay.com.au:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200688328351&clk_rvr_id=330354779777

Isle of Wine also has some:
http://www.isleofwine.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=woodley&x=0&y=0

Great write up mate, very sorry I missed this one.
Best Regards
Jeremy

Great write up on Australian treasures!! Although general winemaking has improved significantly in Australia across the board it makes you wonder why we cannot rise to such heights.

Couple of years ago we had a perfectly cellared bottle of Penfolds 1962 Bin 60A opened at our offline. It was pure joy. Absolutely fantastic wine in every respect that towered above all other great wines opened that night which included:1990 Salon Les Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, 1964 Veuve Clicquot Brut, 1989 Billecart Salmon Elisabeth Rose, 1993 JJ Confuron Romanee St Vivant, 2001 Domaine Romanee Conti Richebourg, 1986 Cos d’Estournel, 1967 Penfolds Bin 7 Shiraz Cabernet, 1964 Vega Sicilia Unico,1989 Chateau d’Yquem, 1906 Seppelt Para.

I think that Woodleys wines was sold to Wynns in the 50’s.

I’m not sure what their vineyards were, or how they were then integrated into what is now the modern Wynns…maybe someone else might know?

Chris,

These wines were part of their cellar holdings that Woodleys then released in the mid 60’s.

The collection we had was the last recorded full set sold at auction I think around 10 years ago. The current owner intimated they had previously come from an old source of impeccable provenance, and this would have been right, given the condition of the bottles…

I have only ever seen a handful of bottles sold here in the last 10 years, with the last ones coming up around 3 years ago. They really are very rare.

That’s great Paul. Thanks again for sharing the notes.

[cheers.gif]

Here’s a pick of the '49 and the '50…

Agree.

I have had it a couple of times, and it is truly fantastic in every respect. So balanced and complex, and close to a perfect wine deserving of all the accolades it has received…

The last time we tried it, we also had the (just recently released at the time) 2004 Bin 60a.

There is no doubt both of this wines share a lot of similarities, and I can actually see the 2004 bin 60a being regarded in the same way in 30 years time…a real modern Aussie classic in the making!!

Holy sh|t!
Never mind complete sets of Treasure Chest, there can’t even be that many individual bottles left any more.
You ought to have invited James Halliday along for perspective; I imagine he’s drunk more of these than anyone still alive on the planet.
Wow.
GG

Interesting mystery, isn’t it?
It says that winemaking has changed, not improved, perhaps?
Who, these days, can bring themselves to pick grapes earlier?
These Redman wines, and the O’Sheas, did they use cultured yeasts, or wild?
Does anyone these days put some of their best grapes into old barrels? Or can no-one resist the lure of the new french barrique?
At least some people in the Hunter are making a few wines in the old style (I’m thinking things like Tyrrell’s new 4 Acres and Johnno’s shiraz).
It’d be lovely if someone in Coonawarra (& Barossa, come to that) was doing the same…
cheers,
GG

Amazing tasting and notes, Paul. Very jealous here

James has been to quite a few of our tastings, but not sure if he got a call for this one or not, but yeah, he should have been there as he has seen the whole lineup a few times as his books show, although perhaps not for a while…