It was fascinating to taste 25 vintages from Château Haut-Bailly all from magnum.
What was most interesting was to see how some older vintages fared and I experienced some surprises.
For one thing, the 2008 is every bit as good as the 2009, but different in style. The 2012 really came on strong, and did not have a somewhat short finish, which seems more the rule with that initially opulent vintage.
On a lesser side, the 2001 was underwhelming, which surprised me. I was not expecting much from either the 2002 or the 2003, but the 2001 proved a head scratcher.
For the most part however, this was a tasting that showed just how excellent Haut-Bailly can be. It is a pity that prices have gone so high, but what can you do.
Here two tasting notes from two wines I really liked and that are good to drink now:
or older vintages, the 2009 – with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc – proved both subtle and noble, with ripe fruit matched by powdered cocoa, truffle, and chocolate. I have always enjoyed this wine: from barrel, at another vertical some 10 years ago and now. The palate displays such character and poise as a top wine of the vintage. Clocking in at 13.5% alcohol, the wine was made from grapes picked between 15 September and 14 October. 97 points – do not hesitate!
And do you know what? The 2008 is just as great! Château Haut Bailly in this vintage reveals subtle power, concentration, and nuance, both juicy and svelte in tannic expression, leading to a long finish and leaving a cooler expression than the 2009, with which it will be fascinating to compare over the next 5 to 15 years. It is also interesting to note how alcohol levels have increased more recently. Back in 2008, the 13% was the highest level since the 2005! Whatever the level, balance is au rendezvous in this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, made from grapes picked between 25 September and 23 October. 97 points!
Thanks Panos - good to know! I have some 2008s which I have yet to try - sounds good to me. I never got round to buying the 2009 but since it is twice the price of the 08 today, no regrets!
Yes the 2008 is incredible. I got a few bottles after tasting en primeur, but a few years later, I retasted it at a Bordeaux festival in NY called Burdigala when they were showcasing the vintage. It outshone the first growths.
It is a far more Alfert wine than the ‘09, which I still like, but it lacks the edginess and slightly herbal bits of the 2008.
Glad I have some of these, including the ‘08. I am a bit surprised at the drinking window for the 2015, out of magnum no less. Last time I had it, from 750 maybe a year ago, it was drinkable yes but pretty tight
it’s funny. when vintages like 09 are released the anti flavor gang are quick to run away. This definitely includes myself so I’m not casting stones. Yet everything I read seems to say that these vintages have aged very well. Which goes back to the point that historically it was the sole vintages that have become the legends.
I’m not a gang member, yet in recent horizontals of the 2009/10 Bdxs several wines were already drying out or were oxidized. Far too many, to be honest. Including 100pts wine. But to be fair, to the biggest part on the right bank.
Good comments here! Too many Right Bank 09s were stuck in that annoying period of de-leafing for too much sun, too late picking times, excessive oak treatments (either too much new oak, or excessive aging in new oak or both). Haut Bailly in 2009 is not in that stylistic category and is utterly delicious now, and has the structure to age very well. But, yes, 2008 just as good (albeit a different vintage character) AND was less expensive upon release.
Agree, it was a problem not only in 2009 but in the 2000s in general, when the heavy extraction and excessive oak treatment peaked. The rate of right bank wines already in decline or already death is alarmingly high. Here some names out of or (blind) vintage horizontals:
2010 Horizontal
7 out 24 right banks were drying out or (partially) oxidized:
La Sergue
Moulin Haut Laroque
Le Dome
Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse
Ausone
Grande Pontet
La Mondotte
2009 Horizontal
6 out 23 right banks were drying out or (partially) oxidized:
This was in the latter stages of making wines designed for Parker’s palate. 2009 had high alcohol, decent acidity and very high dry extract. Once those grapes came in, any attempt at further extraction was going to upset the balance and result in wines that were unlikely to age. Tasting at the Rive Droite, a trade tasting mostly for medium or lower range Right Bank wines done during primeur in 2010, I was struck by how many wines were extracted and kind of unpleasant.
I don’t love 2009 as a vintage, but there are plenty of fine wines with a few really incredible ones, particularly on the Left Bank.
