Supper Club, Atl Edition: (Krug Rose, 12/13 Comtes, 10 Sauzet Montrachet, 98 Roumier Bonnes Mares, 98 Vogue Musigny, 10 Confuron RSV, 09 Hudelot Noellat RSV, 89 Yquem)

WINE TALK
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I had a beautiful, final edition of Supper Club this evening in Atlanta. This was essentially the 19th Anniversary of my first travels down to Atlanta, and I am so thankful we arranged a magical dinner together :heart:.

Champagnes

On Arrival Krug Rose (20th edition)

A lovely Rose with bright, ruby characteristics & a touch of salt in the finish. Exactly what you expect from Krug Rose. Some depth & density, but still juicy & approachable. I particularly enjoyed the finish on this bottle. The frothy salt at the end really brings the ruby all together.

First Course 12 & 13 Comtes de Champagnes

A very insightful side-by-side :clap:. Both bottles got 2 hours of preparation, which helped accentuate the vintage. The 2013 is a wide-open delight with lots of rich brioche alongside its youthful, vivacious qualities. The 2012 is much more stately. A bit closed & deep in its qualities, but still approachable, albeit more in a deeper Dom style than perhaps a more light, charismatic Comtes.

Mike Evans has apparently suffered through 4 bottles of the 13 this Holiday season :kissing_closed_eyes:. His previous notes reference how well the 2013 echoes the classic & legendary 06 vintage of CdC. It has tremendous verve.

All 3 Champagnes had their own stylistic signatures. And successfully woke up our palates for the Burgundies to come.

White Burgundies

2010 Sauzet Montrachet.

A pretty perfect showing from this bottle. A gorgeous nose of Grand Cru ‘musk’, i.e. hints of shell and minerals and chalky tropical fruit. And a gorgeous mouthfeel and progression to a complex finish. A mixture of sweet, oily fruits combined wirh structure & elegance. PnP, progression in the glass. A wonderful pairing with butter Lobster. A special wine.

Maybe another producer or vintage might have a touch more minerality or intensity, but this Sauzet rewarded us so much with its elegance & subtle nuances. A joy.

2000 Drouin Corton Charlemagne

An unusual bring, but in perfect health. This got a quick decant and got better with time. Very pure. Grassy, chalk, no cloying oak. I think certain folks found this a bit more reticent than others, but a welcome, pure example of aged White Burgundy. Less ethereal than its Montrachet companion, but an elegant expression of grassy, Grand Cru Chardonnay.

Foie Amuse, 1989 Yquem

A gorgeous bottle. Beautiful nose & texture. Very much in the prime of life. Rich without being cloying, and lovely & fresh along with a Foie Terraine. A lovely interlude before moving to the Reds.

Romanée St Vivant

2009 Hudelot-Noellat RSV

Very ripe, hedonistic Pinot noir. But thankfully not out of control. Juicy, farm dirt, and some oak still on entry, but refined and luxuriously vibrant in the mouth. Seductive in its own qualities, and representative of the warm vintage. A wine of quality in its own fashion, but less Classically aligned than its 3 other Grand Cru brethren.

2010 Confuron RSV

My preferred wine of the 2 RSV. More tight and structured, but with a much more ‘Classic’ Vosne-Romanée profile of floral, rose petal on the nose & more linear, restrained mouthfeel & finish. I could totally see certain palates preferring the 09 H-N, but I really delighted in the Confuron’s more textbook quality. I’ve read of various Confuron criticism for stylistic oak, but I found this beautiful & elegant. Coiled, but fragrant Romanée St Vivant.

Bonnes Mares & Musigny

1998 Roumier Bonnes Mares

A wonderful bottle shared by its original owner. Double decanted before arrival, by the time this was poured in the spotlight of a final course of tender beef, the Roumier was so lush & generous. Graphite & fine minerals on the finish played so well with its rich pinot mouthfeel. A wonderful demonstration of the vintage.

I’ve had some very interesting 98s this past year, and the graphite finish brought to mind both the 98 Clos de Lambrays and 98 Bonnefond Ruchottes Chambertin. This Bonnes Mares had an opening lushness that was more seductive & inviting, though. A special wine. Hedonistic but still textbook.

1998 Vogue Musigny

Another beautiful bottle shared by its original owner, this got a late decant 20 minutes before being poured, and was still growing in the glass. I was very impressed. At our Musigny dinner back in 2023, I found a series of Vogue Musigny less complete than its Mugnier companions.

And yet, this 98 Musigny did not suffer by comparison to its extraordinary Roumier table companion. Initially quiet on the nose but ultimately very seductive with meat juices and approachable fruit. I thought this showed exquisitely. Building & lengthy without being tannic, and most importantly, exceptionally classy in its transition from nose to finish. Given how good the Roumier was, I am delighted that the Vogue did not suffer by comparison.

Fin

We went 10/10 on our bottles this evening, and I am so glad to close the year with such a special dinner. The Atlanta group constitutes some of my oldest wine friends as well as a collective of brilliant palates from whom I am continually learning. I hope very much we shall reconvene all together in the Spring.

I love a tight 8-top & while a few mischief makers fought me, keeping the evening from getting out of control only enhanced my enjoyment of this awesome lineup :heart:

@dcornutt @Andrew_K @Mike_Evans @Steve_McL

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Bang!

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So happy Bacchus was shining down on you. Happy New Year!

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Thanks for sharing notes, as I wasn’t up to the job of serving as scribe. It was an outstanding night of great food and wine and even better company. While all of the wines showed well, the Sauzet Montrachet and the Roumier Bonnes Mares were truly special and made my wine of the year list. Thanks to you and everyone else there for another memorable night!

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Wonderful time and wonderful wines.

SUPPER CLUB - (12/29/2024)

Intro

CdC Side-by-side

Whites

  • 2010 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
    PnP. Absolutely perfect bottle. Nose bursting with marzipan and tropical fruits. Palate has a depth and expected ripeness with a finish that drives on and on. In the running for WOTN. (97 points)
  • 2000 Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    Quick decant. Very reticent for the first hour. Started to open up a bit with time, but still tightly coiled.

Intermezzo

  • 1989 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Wonderful wine as always. Great balance and depth. A notch below the stunning 88 for me.

RSV

  • 2009 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Really shows the vintage with a very ripe nose with a touch of prune. Palate is inviting if a bit rich. The jury is out for me on the 09s.
  • 2010 Jean-Jacques Confuron Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Absolutely beautiful with a wonderful backbone of acid and lovely fruit. Very approachable and enjoyable.

98 Chambolle

After Party

  • 2020 Etienne Sauzet Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    PnP. End of night pour. Surprisingly open and beautiful. Really an amazing wine that will be great in a few years (if the cork holds).
  • 2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    PnP. End of night pour. Needed a bit of air. Reticent nose with a ton of structure and acid. Continued to develop with time. Wonderful vintage that should be great with time.
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great notes everyone.

I’m very interested in the notes on the 09 Hudelot RSV as I’ve usually found this wine to be pretty restrained/finessy compared to other RSV. I’ve only had the 10 recently which was quite good but if anything felt a bit light bodied.

I’ve found these “off-vintage” late 90s Roumier Bonnes Mares to be wonderful; we had a 97 a few years back that was great too, and I’ve had 00 and 01s which have been good, although others have been tight. I think the relative lack of structure in these “lesser” wines is likely a good thing for Roumier, at least the ones from the earlier era.

I appreciate the visit to the 12/13 Comtes pair., I guess I’ll open 13s first if I’m going to touch these. It’s interesting that 13 felt richer compared to the 12 because I’ve found many other wines to be the opposite. Maybe it’s something specific with Taittinger in those two vintages.

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Definitely more dosage. Could really place it on first open when the rest of the body is still coiled up.

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A really outstanding night and wonderful wines. It was great to see Nick. I loved all the wines that we had. Not one stinker.

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Thank you for the fantastic notes. Appreciate especially the 2010 Sauzet Montrachet update.

On 1998, when that vintage came out, it got press in certain quarters just as damning as 1993. It had a terrible impact on sales, but many of us Burg lovers were confused. The wines were certainly austere in youth, but showed great promise. It is good to see that has come to pass with your Roumier and Vogue bottles.

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Unless Kobrand is lying they have the exact same dosage at 9g. And they are 0.1% different in alcohol.

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Interesting. Wouldn’t have guessed that. Maybe just more ripeness in the '13? Or maybe they are lying.

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I think the 2012 is just showing more acidity which makes the dosage less apparent.

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That’s so interesting because comparing 12 to 13 at dom and Cristal would lead you to think the opposite.

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Similar to the Salon IME however.

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A couple years back…one of my top red burgs of the year was a simple '98 George Lignier Gevrey Chamberlain, tons of old school burg charisma.

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Idk, I only had the 13 salon a few times but it seems pretty acid driven; I wouldn’t call it rich, but it’s super young. I guess the 12 is also pretty acid driven, though.

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I’m very high on 09s in the long run; in 5-10 I think ppl will view them quite differently.

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Had the rest of the after party wines last night. Roulot was still tight, but the Sauzet really opened up beautifully. I’m sad the more recent vintages have been so hard to find. I wish I had a case of each of the 20 Sauzet GCs, but was only able to cobble together a few bottles. I think they’ll be as good or better than the 10s in a decade.

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Nicely done. Were the 98’s giving nuanced aromatics? I see 98,a lot like 2008 and these “harder” vintages, give a pretty dark berry/fruit tone and like it

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Some photos for y’all.

The 10’ Montrachet was my personal WOTN, all delicate balanced minerality and nutty - a real roll of the oeno-dice that won the toss. I loved the Roumier BM almost as much, though just a hair behind it.

For me the 09’ HN RSV was strangely less fruit-forward and more about sous-bois greenbriar than the more open and dark-fruited 10 Confuron. Either my palate was just on its’ own wavelength compared to other folks, or my glasses were out of order.

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