Originally, this was going to be a wine that I planned to open at the Westchester Collector’s dinner to satisfy those who love the full blooded, leaving me and a few others with our Magdelaine. As it turned out, I did not go. The bottles were left out on the kitchen counter, and I opened the Magdalaine 1985 a week ago; it was brilliant as usual.
A friend who enjoys large scale wines came around yesterday to watch the French Open final, and I opened the Usseglio, decanted and served it immediately. The only other time I had tried it, it was big and quite brutish. It was still big, but over the years it had become much more seamless, much easier, and certainly much more complex. No blushing bride but a real rustic beauty.
Plenty of fruit, spice, herb and a note of violets. Still structured, the alcohol did not seem out of place except in the finish. But I loved the wine; this was no modern wine, but old fashioned, a really traditional Chateauneuf with age. Even dealt with the cheeses I served with it.
One of the things I love about wine is its ability to confound you, and make you feel foolish for your preconceptions. Consider myself both.