Jerry had a birthday. He invited a few of us to his celebration, provided all the wines (except 1), and bought us all dinner! Can’t wait till his next birthday. Wonder where he is taking us! This celebration was a bit delayed—over 2 years, due to Covid.
Most of the wines were acquired on release by Jerry. We first opened w 96 Salon, on fire with elegance, depth, layers of flavor, a near perfect bottle. At dinner, we had 11 Lafon Montrachet, 11 PYCM Montrachet from magnum, and 11 PYCM Meursault Genevrieres. Lafon at first was blowsy and clumsy compared to the driving finesse of PYCM, and even was at first beaten by a fabulous Genevrieres. Later that night, Lafon woke up and finished the race behind the other Montrachet but ahead of Genevrieres. The PYCM is immortal, an absolutely stunning white burgundy at the apogee of what is possible. The flavors were like a July 4 fireworks show.
Reds were 85 Maison Leroy Chambertin, 78 La Tâche, 96 La Tâche, 96 Rousseau Chambertin, and at the end a dessert wine—67 Yquem. Leroy was pruney and loose as in “not well knit,” got a bit better a couple hours later, but never really hit a second gear. It wasn’t old or over the hill, just flabby and dull. The 78 LT was at peak, fabulous spice and endless length—crazy good. 96 LT drank well but too young, just entering a period of approachability but paled before the Rousseau, which was so layered and full of finesse and gorgeous fruit, dark fruit all perfectly ripe. One could see a similarity between the 2 LTs. I’m told the Yquem was a great bottle. I’m not a Sauternes fan—I always find a bitter apricot pit note that I don’t like.
The food was a great match for these wines. Razor clams, melon/prosciutto, uni toast, yellowtail and caviar appetizers, then courses like lobster thermidor, pheasant tagliatelle, rabbit porchetta with sunchokes, and lamb salsify w grilled porcini, many courses covered with layers of fresh white truffles. Dessert was strawberry rhubarb crumble. Service at Marino was fabulous, the owner chef joining us near the end and adding some hilarity to a great evening—even turning up the restaurant music, playing and rocking out to music that Jerry had recorded.
It was great fun to celebrate my good friend with several of his good friends, an amazing night of fun, food, and wine. He’s such a great guy. His cellar isn’t bad either.
