So I Think Malbec Can Age... Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira & Mirador

WINE TALK
1

I was very hesitant at first to think that Malbec could age, but I stashed away a few bottles of some Achaval Ferrer. These are the first bottles I pop from both cases I bought on release from Achaval Ferrer Altamira and Mirador 2004.

Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador 2004
Medrano, Mendoza
Argentina

The wine exhibits an ink black core with a bright ruby red border. Very aromatic on the nose revealing dark cherries, blackberries, blueberries, violets, black truffles, cacao, tar, graphite, leather, creamy vanilla, and crushed stones. The initial impression on the palate shows sour cherries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and plums on the attack. The mid palate is filled with licorice, dark chocolate, espresso, with charcoal like texture, and intense refreshing acidity that continues on the long lasting finish that reveals spices, creamy vanilla, crushed stones, and lively yet polished tannins. A mid to full bodied wine with a silky smooth texture, showing great integration, balance, concentration, it remains quite fresh after nine years and its starting to show complexity. Impressive wine.
96+ points

Achaval Ferrer Altamira 2004
La Consulta, Mendoza,
Argentina

A dark inky wine with bright crimson borders, the nose is very active showing aromas of plums, blackberries, black cherries, lavender, violets, dark chocolate, espresso, and graphite. Seamless texture on the palate with intense dark fruit flavors on entry, a tart yet refreshing midpalate with licorice, espresso, dark chocolate. The finish shows great length, sweet dark berries intermixed with sweet spices, well integrated creamy vanilla, and well defined polished tannins. After almost ten years this full bodied wine still remains quite fresh and young, the balance between opulent fruit and acidity is superb.
97+ points

2

Yes…Malbec ages really well. There’s a Region in France (Cahors) that’s known for 100% Malbec…I’ve got a 2000 that’s still WAYYY too young. Think of Malbec like you would Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Cabernet Franc when it comes to aging. When it’s treated right it has a chance to be something VERY special.

3

I’ve had my fair share of Argentinian malbec that doesn’t really age well. They become raisiny, or the acid dies down and there’s no freshness. That’s the reason I was quite surprised by these Achaval Ferrer’s.

4

Have not yet been impressed by expensive Argentine Malbec. The cheaper stuff has seemed at least as good or better; I think this is the best wine in the world under the $25 price point.

5

It has nothing to do with the grape, it’s the winemaking that matters. No reason Malbec can’t be made into a wine that will age - it was a big part of a lot of Bordeaux at one time. A lot of the Argentine Malbec comes from Mendoza and is made to be enjoyed while young. But that has little to do with the potential of the grape itself and some Argentine Malbec ages quite well. They need to explore that a bit more, but given the government, that’s not likely.

6

I’ve had good luck with the 2005 Doña Paula Malbec Selección de Bodega…it ages well and to my liking it’s always been worth the $. I think it retails for about $40/bottle…and I’ve gotten some bottles in the past for as little as $25/bottle. My aunt & uncle just drank the last bottle I gave them in June of this year…and my uncle called me up to rave about it asking where he could get more.

7

Some 6-7 years ago when i started out in wine… i really liked Catena’s malbec and found them to be unbeatable value at the 18$ pricepoint and even the alamos range which was around 9-10 $ at the time… havent had one in years though, but these were certainly made to be enjoyed young(ish).

8

Achaval Ferrer is amazing stuff and have always been impressed with their higher end wines and even the basic Malbec is always good. I am glad Malbec found a home where it can create excellent wines.

9

The 1977 Weinert Estrella Malbec was drinking great when I had it in 2006.

10

I bought these Achaval Ferrer single vineyard bottlings on release, it was the second vintage coming into Panama. I think I paid about $38 per bot since I bought case quantities, this was around 2006. At that price these are a steal, but now they’re sold locally at about 90! Talk about inflation…

Most of the Catena’s I’ve had are the cab and chards which are beautiful, while they’re Catena Alta Malbec is also amazing I haven’t had older vintages. I did try the Nicolas Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino from 2006 a while back, it was simply great almost ageless. I think the difference between Achaval and Catena’s top tier is that Achaval is much more mineral and fresh (acid), whereas Catena’s was much more fruit and polish.

Apart from these two producers, anyone know what other producers produce great ageable malbecs?

11

I’ve found the Vina Alicia Brote Negro bottling to be a long-lived and well-made example of Malbec. It seems there is something of a disappearing middle class with regard to Argentine premium Malbec wines and Vina Alicia BN has gone from 50ish to 85+ last time I checked.

For an interesting read on making great ageable Malbec, see the following link to a Neal Martin WA interview with Catena winemaker, Alejandro Vigil.

http://www.catenawines.com/eng/press/news/2012-10-31_Advocate-neal-martin.html

12

I had a few bottles in 2009-10. All drank very well.

I have never fully trusted the story of this wine, however. Seems to have some conflicting information regarding the bottling, whether it was a Solera method, etc. Really enjoyed it and its funkiness, though.