A quick trip to Copenhagen for a few nights to meet up with our nephew who is “studying” abroad.
First evening - after a trip to the Aire Ancient Baths in the old Carlsberg Brewery - a nice experience at Hummer - right on Nyhavn but more refined than touristy. Our server was exceptionally friendly and off to a good start. Lobster crisps, green olives and unripe peaches, and a simple but tasty Danish lobster. Well what else would you order at a restaurant called Hummer?
Dinner at Alchemist - I watched all the videos and read the reviews, but still was intrigued by what we might find here. Chef Munk and his team were completely engaging rom the minute the large doors opened and welcomed us inside. A huge wine cellar and a number of different wine pairing options were available. We started with a nice glass of Elizabeth Salmon Champagne and then decided to go with a bottle of BdB for the first part of the meals instead of the pairings - and then the remainder of the entrees with the 2007 Chateau Palmer. I really can’t describe the feeling of this place - other than to see if was a wild experience and something I’m very glad we tried. I doubt we will return, but I would be upset had we missed it. Everything is so well orchestrated. We loved the majority of the dishes, some were - interesting - but that’s the point. The only thing I really couldn’t eat was a pork blood dessert. I won’t spoil the fun for those that will visit, but a few shots. The famous pink room is now gone and in its place - Freedom - which I utterly enjoyed.
Saturday morning and we had to try the Cardamom Bun at Juno. Wow! One of the best pastries I’ve ver had. There are a wide range of options and we tried most of them. Long line on a sunny day, but it went quickly.
Next bakery up was Hart - a collaboration of chefs from Noma and Tartine. The cardamom bun was crunchy and caramel - very different from the light and airy one at Juno. Hubby preferred Hart, I preferred Juno.
Amazing dinner at Kadeau - thank you Robert Dentice for the recommendation. Flavors from Bornholm island - by season - this was Winter, Preservation Season. Fantastic and attentive service. Very small - only 30 or so covers. Minimalist design with a view of the kitchen. Now I want to go to the island. A small showing of my favorites of the 16 courses.
And finally pizza after a long day of touring at MaMeMi - run by a few boys from Rome. Small place, great flavors, lots of locals. Pork cheek, apple, caramel iced onions
Salami and burrata
Pork belly, potato, and rosemary
I second this request. Heading there early July. The only concrete plan we have is a daytrip up the coast to the Louisiana Art Museum and Kronborg Castle (well, that and a Springsteen concert). We were pondering a short guided bike tour to get the lay of the land. Would love any ideas. And thanks for the great pics. We booked Kadeau. Looks fabulous.
We really enjoyed our stay in Copenhagen. We stayed at Hotel Sanders and it was a great central location. Our trip was probably more on food and less on sights, but here are some highlights:
Take a canal tour with Hey Captain. This isn’t the typically large scale canal boat, but rather an up to 12 person motorized dinghy. They encourage you to talk with the other guests, there are self-serve drinks on board, and private tours are available. It was a great way to get the lay of the land - but it’s not a scripted sights/history tour.
If you like spas, we had a great few hours at Aire Ancient Baths in the old Carlsburg Brewery. Hot tubs or pools of different temperatures, hammam, sauna, etc., and you can book massages and the like. We find it a nice way to relax after a long flight and get refreshed before the first dinner.
We took the train to Frederiksborg Castle and then to Kronborg Castle on Sunday. Kronborg was more “rustic” and I preferred it given its location and the scenery to Frederiksborg. You can even see the Little Man Mermaid on the harbor. But the Royal art collections and chapel at Frederiksborg are worth the trip and it’s a short train ride between the two. There’s a good shawarma stand near the Hillerod train station - I wish I had taken a pic of the Turkish Brod! Since we visited these two, we skipped touring the inside of the palaces in Copenhagen.
There are a number of museums in Copenhagen, but we tend to spend more time in cafes, etc. The one we visited was the Danish Resistance Museum and it was an interesting time “underground” with some interactive displays, like cracking codes, etc. it’s worth admission.
The Russian Church Alexander Nevsky was built for Tsarina Maria Feodorvna, Danish Princess Dagmar, and Nicholas IIs mother. We attended Good Friday service and saw the Empress’s personal icon collection.
There are numerous opportunities to see parades of royal regiments - some at the barracks behind Rosenborg Castle at the Kings LifeGuards, and others on Kongens Nytorv - some with horses and some with bands. They are fun to see parading through the streets.
Opera - we caught an opera at the Royal Opera. A contemporary and modern take on Aida. It was well done and the Opera House is stunning.
Walk or bike across the pedestrian bridge and over to Hart Bakery in the morning joining the business people on the way to work and for cardamom buns
Walking in Stroeget near Copenhagen University. We stumbled into an art exhibit in at Helligaandskirken where I met an artist making sculptures of old bricks and glass - a rebirth - given his battles with alcohol. It was very cool.
A nice walk from Kings Garden through the Botanical Garden and down to the Little Mermaid. Expect lots of crowds at the Little Mermaid.
Download the TAXA 4x35 app to call taxis similar to Uber with payment, routes, etc. Uber is illegal in Denmark.
You are off to a good start in your planning. Louisiana is a wonderful visit. Take the S train and then a short pleasant walk to the museum. Be sure to budget some time to walk in the gardens, admiring sculpture and the view over the Oresund to Sweden.I like to spend time outdoors again at Rosenborg slot and/or Assistens cemetery which are both very interesting and great place for a picnic or aperitif while watching the locals at leisure. Just off of Stroeget is Grabrødratorv which is a beautiful old square and nice place to relax at a table and people watch. Roskilde is another short day trip by train. Visit the wonderful Viking ship museum and the Gothic cathedral, completed in 1275 (which contains the remains of 39 Danish monarchs).
Hart and Juno, now thats the real Copenhagen experience hehe. In the past few years there have been a boom of high end bakeries.
Personally i love a walk/bike around Nørrebro in the summer.
Jægersborggade is a nice street with a lot of small shops and cafes. Buzzing with live in the summer. It lies right between the beautiful Assistentens Cemetery and the rustic city park Nørrebro Parken. You can find awesome coffee, great ice cream, choclate or even get an awesome lunch at Silberbauers restaurant which is a down to earth french bistro inspired place. Silberbauer worked at both Relæ and was running a Michelin restaurant in Nice before coming back to Copenhagen.
From there you can walk to Guldbergsgade where you will find Bæst and Mirabelles newly opened pasta cafe for a quick italian fix or a beer at Brus.
If you don’t mind “natural wine” you could enjoy a glass of wine at either Gaarden & Gaden or Pompette in the same area (close to the Cemetery).
It is a very different experience to the inner city if you want to try something different. But to me thats Copenhagen in the summer hehe.
If you are really into bakeries then Flere Fugle in Copenhagen NV is awesome. A new place opened in a old industry building. It is a little further out but Copenhagen is small so it is still only a short bus ride from the center.
In the same direction you find my favourite wine shop at Nørrebro station. It is called Vin de Table. They sell both own import and from others. They import Wasenhaus (for Robert )