Have recently decided to dig a little further into Champys and would love to hear some thoughts about these 2 producers…there hasn’t been too much info in recent topics.
So here gores, the wines in question are:
PG:
Cuis 1er Cru Brut
Cuvee Brut Extra
2018 Gastronome jeune 1er Cru Brut
Oger Grand Cru BdB Brut
Rosé de Blancs 1er Cru Brut
2018 Oenophile 1er Cru Extra Brut
2008 Oenophile 1er Cru Extra Brut
2015 Special Club Gr. Terroirs Brut
2015 Special Club Chouilly Grand Cru
2018 Special Club Cuis 1er Cru
2016 Special Club Oger Grand Cru
2016 Special Club Cramant Grand Cru
2009 and 2014 Millésime de Collection V.V.
PM:
Hugues d. C. BdB 1er Cru
H. d. C. BdB 1er Cru demi-sec
Moncuit-Delos BdB Grand Cru
Moncuit-Delos Gr.Cru Extra Brut
2012 Millésime BdBGC Extra Brut
2006 Nicole Monc. VV BdB Extra Brut
Pierre M. Rosé Grand Cru
Geoffroy:
2016 Empreinte 1er Cru Brut
2018 Les Tiersaudes 1er Cru Brut Natur
2008 Terre 1er Cru Extra Brut
Les Houtrants 1er Cru compl. Natur
I swear I should have a few comments on Gimonnet floating around. Big fan. Have had their Rosé and 2017 & 2018 Œnophile in the last several months. All positive experiences.
While I also like Geoffroy very much it’s been harder to source. I had a 2002 not long ago that was delicious though.
Andy, you have a lot of targets to discuss here. I would suggest you follow Brig’s advice and go visit the ongoing Champagne thread. You will find Gimmonet data there. And, there should be plenty of it too in Cellartracker. Personally, I like Gimmonet but really dislike the bottle shape so I don’t buy it anymore but their Special Club bottlings tend to be well done.
Had a 2005 Nicole Moncuit. It was good, but not something Id seek out. 2006 is likely better, but id bet there are better bottles for the money out there.
But yeah, the folks who move around the Champagne orbit here consistently have Gimmonet SC with them. My last handful of Gimmonet notes going back a year are all SC, a lot of 2008, which is excellent.
I haven’t tried any of the Special Club village bottlings but otherwise I’m a big fan of Gimonnet except for the very entry level NV which I find rather forgettable.
I went through several magnums of NV Pierre Moncuit Champagne Cuvée Hugues de Coulmet Blanc de Blancs Brut that cost the same as most 750’s of that quality. They were fantastic.
I loved the 2008 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club Millesimé de Collection and the 2012 Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay, but like Frank, won’t buy them due to the bottle size. When I tried one of their cuvées in a normal bottle size, the 2008 Pierre Gimonnet Extra Brut Oenophile, it wasn’t nearly as good as the others. I also find the sheer number of cuvées they offer overwhelming.
Gimonnet is pillowy/fresh/chalky in style, mostly BdB; Geoffroy is richer and more vinous, from riper terroirs (mostly in Cumières) and with more Pinot Noir.
That’s a divisive bottle of wine and I’m not surprised if someone finds it austere. I personally loved the bone dry and highly acidic style, especially with seafood.
Here’s my note from that bottle: “Crisp. Green apple and citrus. Better with air, and with food. Good price, nothing wrong here, but I personally won’t buy this again. A wine that makes me to strike the “Neutral” like button on CT.” Maybe I like bone-dry austerity in my Muscadet and Chablis more than in my Champagne.
2008 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Oenophile - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (31.12.2021)
Markedly smoky and toasty on the nose with lots of torrefaction, chalk, iodine, baking spice and crisp apple fruit. Just fantastic aromatics, hard to keep one’s nose away from the glass. On the palate very much a different story with tangy green apple and lemon notes dominating. Super minerally, compact and linear with terrific laser-like acidity. Bone dry and for sure somewhat reminiscent of licking a battery but in the best possible way. Some might find it austere, I find it exquisite, irresistible and invigorating. Very youthful at this point but also very drinkable with a long, lip-smacking finish that leaves you craving for more. With fresh seafood this chiselled wine reaches completely new heights
Both of you are kinda describing for me what Roederer Starck can do with expression.
@Warren_Taranow, I find your comment interesting about the contrast of your taste between Champagne and Muscat/Chablis. What would create this kind of preference change between two wine categories?
From Gimonnet, I love the Gastronome, which is bottled at lower pressure. It’s so complex and airy, with strong chalky minerality (a common theme for Gimonnet, as William pointed out). You didn’t list Fleuron, but I really love that bottling too. Oenophile is obviously a bit divisive. I tend to think it’s very well done for a no-dosage style, but you have to like that style to like the wine. It’s linear, focused, and acid-driven, even in ripe vintages. The Cuis 1er is decent, but I only buy when I can get really sharp pricing on it, and I view it as a Champagne to open when I just want bubbles and am not looking for anything to think about. The various Special Club bottlings are tough for me to keep track of. I’ve found some to be too ripe for my taste, while others are very impressive. Unfortunately I don’t remember specifics there. Fleuron and Gastronome are what I buy the most, followed by Oenophile. I can’t think of many producers with such solid, consistent, and well-valued lineups as PG.
