Saving Old Vineyards - Economics vs Heritage

John, as I am not a botanist, nor do I have any practical viticultural experience, I cannot provide a knowledgeable response. However, as a Berserker, these facts shouldn’t prevent me from offering my views on the matter. [whistle.gif]

I believe that the act of transplanting old vines is conducted in the spirit of preserving artifacts of cultural/historical significance.


The Great Vine (Schiava Grossa, aka Black Prince variety) of Hampton Court Palace in England, the Žametovka, or
Modra kavčina (aka “Bleu of Cologne”), of The Old Vine House in Maribor, Slovenia, the Versoaln Vine in Katzenzungen Castle, South Tyrol, the “Mother Vine” (Scuppernong, a Muscadine) on Roanoke Island, North Carolina, Los Angeles’ “Adobe Avila Vine” (Mission), and France’s Pédebernade Vineyard in Gers all have escaped destruction over countless years, but their value is not found in the quality of their fruits’ fermented juice.

We walked from Peter Lehman where we did a tasting over to Langmeil. I believe the first picture is the pathway we walked and the second picture are the vines at Langmeil. If my memory is correct, when they described Orphan Bank to us, they said they used some type of metal/steel tubing to help keep the vines upright that were transplanted.


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Thanks for sharing the photos, Jeff!!

I don’t fully grasp how the “metal tubes” you mentioned were used. Did their placement and application differ from traditional stakes? I understand using vertical stakes to support head trained vines (a common practice).


This Lodi Growers article has several photos demonstrating the use of wooden stakes in head trained vineyards:
link

Going off memory, been 3+ years since I visited. I think they placed steel tubing in the ground down rows to keep the vines from falling over after the transplant. Thought I had a picture of this on my phone and I did not.

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If it preserved an endangered grape type, or the quality of the fruit for winemaking, I’d understand it better. I guess I’m not sentimental about the vines themselves, though old, gnarled ones are definitely cool.

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I certainly understand where you’re coming from, John.

As things stand, all of California’s heritage vineyards are destined for the burn pile eventually - so long as their worth is measured by $$-per-acre.

They can be saved, however, IF the preservation of living grape vines is popularly viewed through the same lens as historic buildings, bridges, archaeological sites, etc.

I support most strategies which help this change to come about.

As Tegan Passalacqua says, “It’s called agriculture, not agri-business.”

California Dept of Conservation (DOC)
Division of Land Resource Protection
“Agriculturally Related Data & Maps”

"The California Department of Conservation provides data and services to support the preservation of agricultural land in agricultural uses.

“The Division of Land Resource Protection (DLRP) develops most of the Department of Conservation’s agriculturally related data.”


“California Important Farmland Finder” Map

"Farmland Mapping and Monitoring Program (FMMP) provides data to decision makers for use in planning for the present and future use of California’s agricultural land resources.

"The data is a current inventory of agricultural resources. This data is for general planning purposes and has a minimum mapping unit of ten acres.


“Important Farmland: Time Series” Maps*

“This web map provides a time series of Important Farmland data from 1984 through the present.”



Alternative websites featuring the above information:

DataBasin
Dataset Map:“California Farmland Mapping and Monitoring Program”



UC Berkeley Library
GeoData Repository
“California Farmland Mapping and Monitoring Program, 2014/16” (Important Farmland data by county)




*** Note:** The first “screen” that appears on the “Important Farmland: Time Series” map will display an error message. Simply swipe to the right, and the pertinent map will appear without any problems.

There are several reasons to preserve old grape-growing sites: cultural, emotional, historic, and scientific. I am grateful that the inquisitive minds at Bedrock have shared the following differences between samples from old and young grapevines:


The following information was taken directly from the November 9, 2021, Bedrock Wine Company Winter 2021 Release email:


"One of the great mysteries of wine is the allure of old vines and what they contribute to a finished wine. Empirically, we know they add something—across world, there is a focus on Vielles Vignes (French), Vigna Vecchia (Italian), Vinhas Velhas (Portugese), Viñas Viejas (Spanish), παλιά αμπέλια (Greek), and Bush Vine mate (Australian), and this does not spring out of thin air like Athena from Zeus’s head. At Bedrock Wine Co., we have seen for years that young vine blocks, planted on the same soil and farmed with the same cultural techniques, are always lighter and less complex than their old vine counterparts. Every year, the young vines at Bedrock taste like ‘Bedrock-light’, and the same goes for Dolinsek, Nervo, Old Hill Ranch, and so on. Of course, there is also the added complication that many of these old blocks have other interplanted varieties in them that may add complexity and ageability—things like tannin, aromatics, and color. Given the many variables that go into wine, deconstructing the reason for old vine and field-blended superiority is extremely tricky. However, a limited insight can be gleamed from a chemical standpoint thanks to some new technologies (or, I should say, newly affordable technologies).


"Though the reason for a wine’s ageability and complexity are myriad, there are some basic chemical cornerstones we can look at—most importantly total phenolic concentration, but also things like polymeric anthocyanin, tannin, catechins (which can help quantify seed ripeness), and a few others. In 2021, using Rapid Phenolic Panel testing through a local lab, we were able to capture snapshots of these markers in several wines we thought would be interesting, most of them about 20 days after harvest when fully fermented but not yet put down to barrel. Though this by no means meets the rigorousness of an actual study, nor can any lab test truly reveal why great wines just hit us differently, the initial results are interesting in that they reveal some fundamental differences between older and younger vine lots.


"In deciding which lots to analyze, we focused on two things. First, we wanted to look at the difference between old and young vines from the same vineyard and of the same variety–in this case, Zinfandel. This is somewhat challenging because young blocks tend to be ‘pure’, aka only planted to a single variety, while older blocks tend to have interplanted varieties like Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Mataro, Grenache, Carignan, etc. that contribute varying levels of tannin and color. Second, we tried to see how these mixed varieties might contribute to a wine’s composition. For the analysis, we decided to focus primarily on total phenolic concentration as, to quote from a great article by Jennifer Angelosante, ‘Color density and due, tannin level, and texture are all determined by phenolics’. (you can read that article here). We also looked mainly at two classes of phenols in particular: tannin (structure/astringency) and anthocyanin (color).


"The purest Zinfandel old vine blocks we work with are at Bedrock in blocks 39 and 42—typically one of the core lots of the Bedrock Heritage Wine—so we decided to compare this to the wine made from younger vines (planted 2005) on very similar soils in Block 7a. This was also a good comparison because both blocks were picked at similar sugars and fermented at similar temperatures, two variables that could skew results if widely divergent. In terms of total phenolic concentration (essentially the sum of all tannin, anthocyanin, etc., in solution), the old vines were at 58.4 AU versus 46.7 AU for the young vines—so 20% higher. Though anthocyanin levels were similar (276 mg/l versus 263 mg/l), the tannin content in the old vines was substantially higher at 880 mg/l versus 726 mg/l in the juvenile vines. So, the quick takeaway here is that while color (anthocyanin) was similar between the two lots, the old vines have a lot more phenolic stuffing overall (presumably including volatile phenols, which impact aromatics).


"The results from Old Hill Ranch were similar, though in this case, there are many mixed varieties field-blended and co-fermented in the old vine lot, which likely increases the difference between it and the ‘pure’ younger Zinfandel. Here the total phenolics registered 78.1 AU for the old vine lot versus 60.4 for the young Zinfandel. Tannin was 847 mg/l in the old vines compared to 671 mg/l, which tracks similarly to the old versus young vines at Bedrock Vineyard. However, the total anthocyanin in the old vine lot was much higher than in the pure young Zinfandel (465 mg/l v. 297 mg/l) which likely speaks to the influence of the mixed varieties in the older lot (and potentially better color in the old vine Zinfandel as well). Similarly, young Zin versus the mixed old vines at Dolinsek Ranch rendered similar results to Bedrock and Old Hill with the total phenols and tannins in the old vines well above that of the young vines (60.9 AU v. 51.2 AU and 585 mg/l v. 403 mg/l of tannin).


"To get a sense of exactly how rich in tannin and anthocyanin some commonly interplanted mixed varieties are, we ran analysis on a small lot of co-fermented Alicante Bouschet and Petite Sirah from Old Hill. Petite Sirah being one of the world’s most tannin and color rich varieties and the purple-juiced Alicante Bouschet being the closest thing to ink in the wine universe, we figured we could establish a high-water mark of sorts. Indeed, that sample registered a whopping 100.6 AU (one of the most phenolically dense wines we have tested) with 1044 mg/l of tannin and 966 mg/l of total anthocyanin! (If free radicals could read they would cower in fear at those numbers.) This would also be a good time to point out that more is not necessarily better or balanced—this wine will be a fantastic blender in small doses but is painfully tannic and literally a little hard to swallow right now. What it does show is how effective these varieties are in contributing color and tannin to a field blend—something that has been empirically known for a long time.


“Though these results are far from rigorous, they do give a little glimpse into how older vines and field blends contribute to finished wine quality. Of course, the magic of wine cannot be simply summed up by a few chemical compounds (particularly in something so immensely complex), but these results do offer a glimpse into what old vines and field blends might contribute while looking at some basic keystones of wine’s chemical composition.”


Bedrock Wine Company website:
https://bedrockwineco.com/


GuildSomm
“A Guide to Wine Phenolics”

Jennifer Angelosante
March 27, 2020

On other Wine Berserkers threads, I posted a few internet-based resources to aid in observing the loss of viticultural lands:


· “Maps
“Mapping Vyd Loss & Regional Change”:
https://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3387400#p3387400

· “Contra Costa Wine Heritage
“‘Atlas of Urban and Regional Change’ - USGS”:
https://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3302892#p3302892


Both links make use of the U.S. Geological Survey’s 1973 “Atlas of Urban and Regional Change, San Francisco Bay Region, Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, Napa, San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Solano, and Sonoma Counties, California”. The report’s maps were created using data from 1970.


Link for all 44 maps / plates:

The FMMP “Important Farmland Time Series” and CropScape interactive maps, in conjunction with EveryVine and Google Maps, also can assist in tracking the disappearance of old-growth vineyards.

These tools also can help confirm that a specific location has been dedicated to grape-growing as far back as 1970. Unfortunately, none of these resources can independently prove whether a vineyard’s plantings are true “old vines”.


National Geologic Map Database
“Atlas of Urban and Regional Change, San Francisco Bay Region, Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, Napa, San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Solano, and Sonoma Counties, California” link:

Farmland Mapping & Monitoring Program
“Important Farmland Time Series” interactive map:

(swipe left on the first slide displayed)


CropScape website:
https://nassgeodata.gmu.edu/CropScape/
(light purple identifies “grapes”)

In these two older pieces, a Food & Wine article and an interview at Spendid Table, journalist Ray Isle provides insight into why some folks argue for the preservation of old-growth vineyards.


Food & Wine
“The Battle for America’s Oldest Vines”

by Ray Isle
March 31, 2015

“Are vineyards just farmland, or are they cultural treasures? F&W’s Ray Isle goes inside the fight to save some of California’s oldest grapevines from the bulldozer.”


The Spendid Table
“Are California’s Old Vines Worthy of Historical Designation?”

by Lynne Rossetto Kasper
October 31, 2013
(Audio: 6:42 minutes)

Historic Vineyard Society website:
https://historicvineyardsociety.org/

More online tools for identifying current or past land use related to agriculture and viticulture in California:


Farms Under Threat interactive map website:

“Farms Under Threat provides actionable information on the location and quality of agricultural land, the threats posed by development, and state-level policies that can help protect farmland and ranchland. This first-of-its-kind assessment was created by American Farmland Trust and Conservation Science Partners to empower farmers, citizens, and policymakers to protect the agricultural land base. We invite you to explore the information presented here and then take action by advocating for farms and farmers in your county or state…”.


National Historical Geographic Information System (NHGIS) website:
https://www.nhgis.org/

“The National Historical Geographic Information System (NHGIS) provides easy access to summary tables and time series of population, housing, agriculture, and economic data, along with GIS-compatible boundary files, for years from 1790 through the present and for all levels of U.S. census geography, including states, counties, tracts, and blocks.”


DataBasin: LEGCLASS Crop Map website:

CA Natural Resources Association
Statewide Crop Mapping
files website:

"…Currently, Statewide Crop Maps are available for years 2014 and 2016. Historic County Land Use Surveys spanning 1986 - 2015 may also be accessed using the CADWR Land Use Data Viewer.

"For Region Land Use Surveys follow link below: Region Land Use Surveys - Datasets - California Natural Resources Agency Open Data "

The CNRA website includes shapefiles for crop info as recently as 2018.

Turley Wine Cellars’ old-growth Pesenti Vineyard is protected through cooperation with The Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo. The oldest vines were planted between 1922 and 1924 in the Willow Creek area of San Luis Obispo County.



The Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo
Project: “Turley Vineyards”


"…In partnership with landowners Larry and Suzanne Turley, the Land Conservancy permanently protected 150 acres of land at Turley Vineyard while fulfilling agricultural preservation policies at the heart of the City of Paso Robles’ ‘Purple Belt Program’. This program aims to protect the vineyards and agricultural character of the region surrounding Paso Robles. Our Turley conservation easement put this protection plan into action for the first time.

"The Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo County has a longstanding history in assisting municipalities in the county to achieve their conservation goals. Just one parcel of land separates the historic Turley Vineyards from an adjacent Templeton housing tract. The conservation of this land helps establish a permanent boundary between the town and countryside, an idea strongly supported by property owners, Larry and Suzanne Turley.

"…The Turley conservation project permanently protects the scenic, agricultural, and natural resources found on the vineyard property. The property contains the historic “Pesenti Vineyard”, one of the oldest in the region planted over 80 years ago, along with a variety of woodlands and wildlife. These gnarled old vines are dry farmed, organic, and managed using sustainable practices that benefit our county. This project will allow the citizens of San Luis Obispo County to enjoy this rural and agricultural landscape forever.

Turley Vineyard Project Highlights”

· Conserves 150 acres of agricultural land mainly producing wine grapes;

· Protects a scenic property and the historic Pesenti Vineyard, one of the oldest in the region;

· Preserves Coast Live Oak woodland and Chaparral habitat for birds and other wildlife;

· Provides a physical and visual boundary separating town and country…".

Lompoc Record
“Vineyard Easement Launches ‘Purple Belt’”

Times Staff
January 13, 2008

"…‘The city is excited about the conservation easement because success of the Purple Belt Program is dependent on voluntary efforts of property owners and agriculturalists and their desire to maintain the land in viable agricultural production,’ said Ron Whisenand, Community Development Director for Paso Robles.

"Located at Vineyard Drive and Winery Road, ‘just one parcel of land separates the historic and scenic Turley vineyard from an adjacent Templeton housing tract’, [Bob] Hill, [Conservation Director for the Land Conservancy] said.

"‘The voluntary conservation of the land will help establish a permanent boundary where “town” ends and “countryside” begins’, he said.

“Larry and Suzanne Turley said they strongly support local conservation and are sustainability-oriented…”.


San Luis Obispo Tribune
“Follow-Up File: Paso Adds Notches to its Purple Belt”

February 20, 2010


Turley Wine Cellars website:

“Vineyards & Wines” profile: “Pesenti Vyd Zinfandel”


Historic Vineyard Society profile: “Pesenti Vineyard”


The Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo website:
https://lcslo.org


California Lands website:
https://www.calands.org/

California Conservation Easement Database (CCED)

California Protected Areas Database (CPAD)

Chile is home to many acres of old-vine Pais (aka Mission, Listan Prieto), Carignan, Cinsault, as well as a few white cultivars. Some producers are focused on revitalizing neglected vineyards and bottling high quality wines from these crops.

If a centennarian vineyard was grafted over to a different variety, would it still be considered “old”?
The following article includes an interview with David Nieuwoudt, of South Africa’s Cederburg, on his new collaboration in Chile with Julio Bouchon and Christian Sepúlveda: Longavi. The Longavi team works with several old-vine growers to preserve historic vineyards.

In some cases, only the root systems of ancient Pais vines are being saved, as new cultivars are grafted on top.



Wine Anorak
“New Wave Chile is Here, With a Little Help From South Africa: The Wines of Longavi”

by Lisse Garnet
February 10, 2022

"…Chile has always looked beyond its borders for inspiration, something that’s evident in the creation many a fine wine facsimile from her shores. Today this super-slim country with a 4,000-mile-long seafront has woken up to the possibilities of producing wines with a sense of place. And there’s a parallel here with the new wave wines coming from South Africa.

"Longavi is a label with two Chileans and a Saffer at the helm. Julio Bouchon and David Nieuwoudt have partnered up to produce some ridiculously good natural wines, from vines grafted onto the roots of dry farmed octogenarian Pais. Nascent rockstar winemaker, Christian Sepúlveda is the third partner: he has also shown himself to be a skilled viticulturist, and is unafraid of using ancient grafting techniques, flor, amphora and concrete in the winery.

“Lisse Garnett spoke to David as he sat protected from the hot South African sun by a beautiful ancient vine pergola on his terrace overlooking the mountains. Tanned and smiling, he looks a very blessed man, a man who has been nowhere for two years.”


"Lisse Garnett (LG): ‘What do an ageing Chilean Don and the scion of a top tier 6th generation Saffer winery have in common?’

"David Nieuwoudt (DN): '…The idea behind this new project is to produce seriously hands off wines from seriously old vineyards down in the south, trying to preserve some of these vineyards – trying to get long term contracts with them, to push the boundaries and start making wine as they were doing 8,000 years ago in Georgia.

"‘We wanted a younger approach – we wanted a younger audience.’

"LG: ‘How did you begin?’

"DN: 'We started out with the Chenin project – we wanted to make the first real commercial kick-arse Chenin in Chile. The only way we could do it was to find seriously old spots; Julio had travelled to South Africa and been inspired by the old vines we have there. We found this amazing property very close to their cellar where we had the opportunity to bring life to this old Pais vineyard. At the beginning when we grafted people were laughing their heads off at us – look at this South African guy, he is coming to Chile and he is trying to graft it onto 105 year old dry farmed Pais – he has no water, he must be crazy. Bahahaha…

"‘But it was a super success. These new Chenin grapes that we get from these vineyards are on a different level, stuff that I would struggle to get in South Africa.’

"…LG: ‘Is this a well known technique?’

"DN: 'We found an old guy in the village with horses – he knows how to farm dry vines. He knew about grafting, amazing, he just had it between his fingers and we had over 90% success rate. People thought we were crazy, cutting 100-hundred-year-old vines and grafting them but the next year there was life in this vineyard.

"‘So we’ve managed to get about 3 hectares of it now and then to seriously produce Chenin with a natural ferment in clay amphora. We burnt our fingers a little bit in the first year, too ambitious with the skin fermented one but we got it right very quickly in the second and the 2020 vintage – well that’s an amazing wine.’

"…LG: ‘How does the future of Chilean wine look to you?’

"DN: 'Chile is a land of opportunity. In South Africa we’ve got one Stellenbosch, we’ve got one Swartland, one Hemel-en-Aarde; Chile’s got five Stellenbosch, five Swartlands. Then they have the old vineyards – ancient Pais vineyards that have been physically written off in a sense.

“‘These new wines that you’ve tasted are about taking Chile in the direction of producing some super innovative professional wines, not just commercial big stuff. These are not funky wines; these is the real stuff courtesy of amazing vineyards. This is serious wine and it’s quite traditional winemaking.’”


"…LG: ‘Have you made any exciting discoveries?’

DN: ‘We found seven hectares of Pais older than a hundred years and they are in proper condition, they just need a little bit of love and care and Christian’s good hands, he oversees all the vineyards. We started off with the rosé, that did extremely well, the Chenin got the most innovative wine from SA. It’s really how do we scale it from here. We’ve got access to a lot of superb old fruit and we have put in place long term contracts, we pay these guys three or four times what they will get and that gives stability and preserves the old vineyards. It’s much like what happened back in South Africa with the Swartland Revolution twenty years ago and you see there are a lot of young guys who are starting to move on similar projects now. It’s not a copy and paste anymore, they really express site and style’…”.


I have read previously about California wineries grafting more marketable varieties onto old rootstock. For example, at DeRose’s San Benito County estate vineyard, Viognier grows upon considerably older roots.

In such a union, would the newer component faithfully emulate the desirable traits (self-limiting vigor, deeper access to underground water) of an old grapevine?



Longavi website:

**The following project propagates new plants from old vines from the ground up, rather than by grafting new cuttings atop established rootstock .

The practice of layering has been used for centuries and, theoretically, remains a viable option in Phylloxera-resistant soils.

Even ancient vines have a finite lifespan. Layering, however, produces genetically identical, own-rooted copies of the parent grapevine.**



Forbes
“Top Wine Region In Spain Using Old Technique Of ‘Layering’ Century-Old Vines”

by Cathrine Todd
March 10, 2022


"…Through time, the rural way of life that was being threatened started to concern José Antolín. He was afraid that many small villages, such as the one he grew up in, may vanish and industrial agriculture would take over the land. And so his deep love for the century-old Tempranillo bush vines that existed in the Ribera del Duero wine region, which surrounds the enchanting city of Burgos – extending out west and east – would lead him with three other business partners to start the wine company Bodegas Imperiales in 1998.

“…José bought out the other owners so he could solely run Abadía San Quirce as he was fiercely passionate about keeping the old ways of farming the vines, which didn’t make financial sense, and he is keeping alive a technique called ‘layering’ that allows the century-old vines to live on, in some sense, indefinitely.”


“…He is doing everything in his power to make sure that the people of these rural towns have a reason to stay and can pass down the old vines for centuries to come… making sure that the sacrifices of past generations don’t die so quickly but instead are always there to remind the future locals who they are, where they came from and the pride that comes from being rooted in such a place.”


Abadía San Quirce website:

Tablas Creek Vineyards Blog
“Grapevine Layering: An Age-Old Vineyard Technique, Revisited”

April 8, 2021


Wikipedia
“Layering”

If the destruction of an ancient vineyard is unavoidable, a field selection of cuttings should be collected before the vines are uprooted.

Genetic material from vineyard samples could be archived, evaluated, and cleaned up for future propagation. Otherwise, valuable opportunities to catalogue and study rare cultivars may be lost forever.



Historic Vineyard Society
“Winter 2016 Newsletter”
January 1, 2017

“…Foundation Plant Services has invited HVS to send in clone selections from historic vines to be tested and treated/removed of any virus, then propagated. This has kept the HVS board members busy into harvest, as they’ve begun flagging vines to take cuttings this spring and sent into the FPS - this has the potential to allow public access to HVS selections and even create a special HVS clonal selection in years to come…”.


Foundation Plant Services
Grape Variety: “Vaccarèse”

  • Vaccarèse 02
    Source: ‘Saitone Ranch’, Russian River Valley, donated by the Heritage Vineyard Society
    Comments: Vaccarèse 02 came to Foundation Plant Services in 2017 as part of the Historic Vineyard Society Program. The material was collected from the heritage vineyard at ‘Saitone Ranch’ in the Russian River Valley and came to FPS with the synonym name Brun Argenté.”

Are other samples from Historic Vineyard Society sites currently being analyzed for eventual approval by Foundation Plant Services?


** EDIT **

Foundation Plant Services did receive additional grape variety samples from the HVS in 2017.

“Clairette blanche 05 was brought to Foundation Plant Services by the Historic Vineyard Society in 2017. This heritage clone was collected from ‘Carlisle Vineyards’ in Sonoma and donated by Mike Office of Carlisle Winery.”

“Grapes of UC Davis” by Nancy L. Sweet
“Sauvignon blanc and the Sauternes”

  • Sauvignon blanc 37 (Bedrock Wines): Morgan Twain-Peterson, proprietor of Bedrock Wines and the historic ‘Bedrock Vineyard’ near Glen Ellen, California, donated several heritage wine grape clones to the FPS public grapevine collection in 2017. One of the heritage clones is a Sauvignon blanc clone from a block planted in 1896 at ‘Nervo Ranch’ in the Alexander appellation in Geyserville, Sonoma County, California. The Historic Vineyard Society is dedicated to preserving California’s historic vineyards; their website characterizes the ‘Nervo Ranch’ site as a very mixed vineyard planted on steep slopes of decomposed shale. Once testing is completed at FPS, the selection will be known as Sauvignon blanc 37.”

  • Sémillon 17 from Bedrock Wines (in progress): Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wines also donated a heritage Sémillon clone to the FPS public grapevine collection in 2017. The clone is from a vine in a block planted in the 1880’s in the ‘Monte Rosso Vineyard’ in the Sonoma Valley appellation in Sonoma County. The website of the Historic Vineyard Society indicates that the ‘Monte Rosso’ vineyard was originally planted by Emanuel Goldstein in the 1880’s. Some of the original plantings, including the Sémillon, still remain on the property. Louis Martini purchased the property in 1938 and replanted some of it with Cabernet Sauvignon. The heritage Sémillon selection from ‘Monte Rosso’ will be known as Sémillon 17 upon release after completion of testing.”

Wine Berserkers
“Tablas Creek video w/ MTP of Bedrock”

August 10, 2021

Wine Business
“New FPS Grapevine Selections Include European Imports, California Heritage Clones”

December 6, 2016

Foundation Plant Services
“FPS Releases New Grape Selections in 2016”

Ridge Vineyards donated samples of Beclan, Mourtaou (aka Mancin), Petit Bouschet, and Saint Macaire from the “Whitton Ranch” (aka “Geyserville”). Matt Cline of Three Wine Company donated Carignane, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre material from the “Spinelli” and “Lucchesi/Joaquin José/Emerson” vineyards. Additionally, infected “Inglenook Vineyard” Charbono and “Martini Vineyard” Chenin Blanc in FPS’s collection were cleaned up and re-released.

Wines & Vines Analytics
“ASEV to Honor Jim Wolpert: Well-Liked UC Davis Viticulturist to Receive Merit Award”
by Andrew Adams
July, 2013

"…Wolpert also worked with extension viticulturist Amand Kasimatis to establish the Zinfandel Heritage Vineyard at the Oakville research station. Wolpert, Kasimatis and other extension viticulturists scoured California’s oldest vineyards looking for disease-free Zinfandel cuttings. The team ultimately found 90 selections from vineyards planted before World War II. Wolpert and his team grafted the vines onto St. George rootstock and used head training to mimic the methods used by pioneering farmers of the 19th century. By using a uniform methodology, Wolpert was able to analyze the vines on specific parameters such as cluster weight, berry size and cluster tightness to identify genetic traits and isolate pure clones. In 2009, UC Davis’ Foundation Plant Services released 19 selections to nurseries that came from the heritage vineyard.

"…Bob Biale is the co-owner of Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa, Calif., and the current president of the ZAP board of directors. He said Wolpert demonstrated the importance of capturing clonal material and the industry will ‘always be grateful for that.’

“He said Wolpert’s work with the Heritage Vineyard helped the industry by offering wineries a wider selection of Zinfandel clones, from high-yield workhorses to those that fit a boutique winery. ‘He has broadened this whole palette. Now we’re going to have so many deeper flavors and different flavors’…”.

American Vineyard Foundation
“Evaluation of Zinfandel Heritage Selections: Vineyard Data”
(PDF download)


In Europe, Franconian grapevine samples from old-growth plantings have been collected for preservation and research purposes. Cultivars include Silvaner, Elbling, Muscat, Müller-Thurgau, etc.

International Society for Horticultural Science
Acta Horticulturae # 652, p.59-63
International Symposium on Grapevine Growing, Commerce, and Research
“Vines from Old Vineyards as a Source for Clonal Selection and Preservation of Genetic Diversity”
by J. Engelhart, K. Wahl, & A. Schartl (2004)
Alternate Link: https://doi.org/10.17660/ActaHortic.2004.652.5

"Abstract: Monoclonal cultivation of grapevines leads to a loss of genetic variability within varieties and thus deprives breeders of their sources for new and different clones and also special traits for crossbreeding. To thwart this process the Franconian wine growing region was scrutinized for vineyards planted before 1960. Of about 200 still existing old vineyards, 37 with app. 20,000 plants have been analysed so far. They are located throughout the Franconian growing region and therefore represent different geological and climatic conditions. Besides old clones of current cultivars, old varieties cultivated in Franconia like Elbling and Muscat have also been identified.

“To create a source for the development of new clones and in order to provide a genetic reservoir for cross breeding, 90 promising plants, mainly c.v. Silvaner and c. v. Müller-Thurgau and other varieties as well, have been selected for propagation in the years 2001 and 2002. Special criteria for selection have been quality aspects, moderate yield, loose bunches, and aromatic berries as well as phenotypes differing from commonly used clones. Besides the establishment of a gene pool, future emphasis will be laid on the production of premium clones of currently cultivated varieties and the reintroduction of old varieties to enrich the assortment of cultivars typical for the Franconian terroir.”

TomHill shared an article in TRINK on revitalized winegrape cultivars in the following forum post:


Wine Berserkers
“TRINK: Returning Old German Varieties to Life…”

by TomHill
May 18, 2022


On the same thread, I listed several websites and online articles exploring the identification, recording, conservation, and promoting of obscure wine grapes.

Andreas Jung, Ulrich Martin, and others are working to preserve largely-forgotten historical vineyard sites and grape varieties in Germany.

Wine Berserkers
“Research & Preservation of Grape Varieties in Germany”

May 19, 2022


Historische Rebsorten (“Historical Grape Varieties”) website:
https://historische-rebsorten.de/


Original Verkorkt (“Originally Corked”)
All articles by Andreas Jung:
https://www.originalverkorkt.de/author/andreas-jung/


Southern Palatinate Region website
**Südpfalzweinberg Grape Variety Archive
Vine Sponsorship:
https://www.**rebenpatenschaft.de/

When an ancient vineyard is slated for destruction, cuttings taken from grapevines can be relocated and transplanted.


There is a certain novelty in cultivating heirloom vine cuttings in one’s backyard. Might not samples also be gathered and studied by plant scientists? It would be negligent to destroy a potentially irreplaceable viticultural resource.

Certain old-growth vines might possess rare/desirable traits if more closely studied. Greater efforts ought to be devoted to collect, assess, and catalogue cuttings from grapevines growing under the shadow of the bulldozer.




Daily Bulletin
“Take Home a Vintage Grapevine from Old Rancho Cucamonga Vineyard”

by David Allen
February 11, 2020

"…Grapevines from a dormant vineyard in Rancho Cucamonga will be offered for sale at $25 each. It’s a chance to take a home some living history to decorate your yard, if not produce your own wine.

“‘We’ve had a lot of interest. Some people have already been out here marking vines they wish to adopt,’ said George Walker, a wine enthusiast and historian who encourages home winemaking.

"The [‘Gateway Vineyard’] site is the northeast corner of N Haven Avenue and Fourth Street [in Ontario, CA]. It was a high-profile grape-picking spot each fall, an opportunity to see an age-old valley tradition unfold amid development as you cruised by on the busy thoroughfares.

"The property’s Zinfandel and Rose of Peru vines are believed to date to the 1930s. Walker said they may be the only old-time vines left within city limits.

"Grapes were last harvested there in 2017 by Galleano Winery, which had leased the land. Warehouses have gone up on the east side. Hotels are proposed for the remainder, but that project may not get started in 2020.

"…Walker said the city’s planning director introduced him to the would-be developer, who gave him the green light to dispose of as many vines as he can. He guesses there are 2,000 vines and doesn’t expect them all to sell.

"…Once replanted, a vine will begin growing a new tap root. After the first couple of years, watering isn’t required because the root will find water underground.

"I phoned Don Galleano, owner of Galleano Winery, for his take. He said it’s not good for the vines that they haven’t been pruned in two years.

“‘But he picked a great time to do this because they should be dormant,’ Galleano said. ‘I wish everyone good luck. It’s an ambitious endeavor.’"


“George Walker, president of Cucamonga Home Wine Society, shows an old grapevine at a former vineyard on Fourth and Haven in Rancho Cucamonga on Thursday, Feb. 6, 2020. Old vines from the former vineyard will be offered for sale Feb. 8, 15 and 22 by the Cucamonga Home Wine Society.”


"On the site Thursday morning, Walker showed me new branches forming on some of the vines. Even if they won’t be as fruitful since they haven’t been pruned for a while, the new buds show the vines still have some life in them. By transplanting them while they’re dormant, he said, the vines will ‘wake up’ in new soil.

"There may be a second opportunity to reclaim the vines this fall after the harvest season when they will go dormant again.

"The retired probation officer and home vintner has made a side business out of saving vines.

“‘When an old vineyard is going to be developed, we’d like to go in there and rescue the vines. Because they can be rescued,’ [George] Walker told me. ‘I’ve done about 6,000.’

“The success rate from transplanting them is ‘around 80%,’ Walker said. ‘Some will “take” and last five years. Some are still going strong that we transplanted 10 years ago.’”


Cuttings from the “De Ambrosio Vyd” were planted at CalPoly Pomona’s “Horsehill Vineyards” agricultural facility. Students produce wines annually from these heirloom grapevines.


Cal Polytech Pomona
“The Prized-Lineage of Horsehill Vineyards”

"In 2001, Don Galleano combed the fields in Rancho Cucamonga and selected 400 grapevine cuttings, some of them nearly 100 years old, from the ‘De Ambrogio Ranch’ vineyard just before it was razed for development. The third-generation vintner operates the Galleano Winery in Mira Loma and Galleano Enterprises, the largest shipper of grapes in Southern California.

“‘We wanted to take these prized cuttings from the “De Ambrogio Ranch”, which represents a lot of the history of the Cucamonga Valley, and preserve them for future generations,’ says Galleano.

“…The cuttings from ‘De Ambrogio Ranch’ were potted in Cal Poly Pomona’s nursery with the hope of maintaining a small piece of the Cucamonga Valley’s rich wine-producing history. Today, the old-line Zinfandel vines, which have won multiple gold medals in international wine competitions, are part of the university’s viniculture program preparing students for careers in one of California’s leading industries…”.



Additional Resources - Cucamonga Valley:
“Gateway Vineyard”:


Daily Bulletin
“One Last Grape Harvest in Rancho Cucamonga Vineyard”

by David Allen
August 31, 2017

"Traffic sped past on Haven Avenue and Fourth Street, but in the middle of the [‘Gateway Vineyard’], the bustle was in the rhythm of the labor.

"Field workers efficiently grabbed clusters of grapes off the vines. Gloved hands tossed the grapes into plastic trays. When the trays were full, they were hoisted to the shoulder, or to the top of the head, and walked to a waiting truck. The tray was emptied, a token handed over and it was back to picking.

"It’s an age-old process in which technology plays little part, at least in the field.

"‘Every vine is pruned. It’s a full hand-harvest of the fruit,’ said Don Galleano, the third-generation winemaker whose Galleano Winery would turn the grapes into wine.

"The vineyard itself is likely to be uprooted, however. The property is slated for development.

"…Said Galleano, who had leased the land since the 1980s: ‘I reckon this is the last harvest.’

"He had dubbed it ‘Gateway Vineyard’ because the land is a gateway to Rancho Cucamonga. The annual harvest, which lasts only a few days, has the whiff of bygone days: workers in big straw hats stooped over their labors, yanking grapes from vines in the field, even as development occurs all around.

"…I learned about the final harvest when I ran into Gino Filippi, the wine writer and Upland councilman, on Tuesday.

“‘That’s been a vineyard for 85, 90 years. It’s sad,’ Filippi said.

"Galleano said that estimate sounded right to him. He expects the vineyard was planted after the end of Prohibition in 1933. Zinfandel grapes have always been grown there. For decades, Frank DeAmbrogio would ship the grapes to home winemakers across the United States. Galleano took over the land from him in the 1980s and supplied a winery in Northern California [Geyser Peak] before using the grapes at his own winery in recent years.

“The vineyard is 26 acres. Galleano said an acre would have 430 vines, which would mean the site has more than 10,000. They will produce about 25 tons of grapes…”.



“DeAmbriogio Ranch” (Uprooted) :


Gino Off the Vine Blog
“Upland Winegrowers Alive”

by Gino L. Filippi
November 25, 2011

"…For the past decade, Denson’s interest in growing vines and producing wines has transformed from general interest to deep passion. He first became interested in the viticulture history of Rancho Cucamonga upon his daily commutes past the old Thomas Brothers Winery site. ‘I began to wonder, this is a great old winery building, but where did all the vines go? With the housing boom, I noticed more and more vineyards being replaced by new homes and retail centers. It made me sad to see such a rich part of the cultural history of Rancho vanish before my eyes,’ said Denson, who serves as Director of Design at Architerra Design Group in Rancho Cucamonga.

"…Denson inquired about growing and producing with his fellow co-worker, John Federico, who had worked the ‘DeAmbrogio Ranch’ many years before as a young man. ‘He knew a great deal of history about the vineyard, and right before the property was graded over, we drove through the vineyard rows in winter and picked up some of the recently pruned canes. It’s my understanding that some of the vines on that property were over 100 years old. I thought it would be a good legacy to preserve the parent plants of this vineyard.’

"Denson began his vineyard with a dozen vine cuttings, selected from various varieties at the historic ‘DeAmbriogio Ranch’. 'Maybe half rooted in from the original planting and, after a couple of years of growth, I took additional cuttings and increased the number of vines. Currently, I have about 30 Zinfandel vines, 4 Red Malaga, 2 Syrah, 2 Thompson Seedless and 1 Mission on our standard residential 8,000 square foot lot in Upland,’ said Denson.

"…Originally located on the southwest corner of Foothill Blvd (Route 66) at Haven Avenue (west of the Rancho Cucamonga Civic Center), the famed ‘DeAmbrogio Ranch’ served as the valley’s grape packing and shipping center. ‘Mary and Frank DeAmbrogio were the last of the large grape packers and shippers of our valley,’ said local winemaker Don Galleano. 'I remember they were sending their prized Cucamonga Zinfandel grapes to the east coast as late as the early 1980’s via refrigerated trucks.

"…[Denson said,] 'What originally started off as a idea to preserve a portion of viticulture history of the Cucamonga Valley has blossomed into a family tradition that marks the culmination of another growing season. Each year I bottle up a little gift of Denson Reserva Cucamonga Valley Zinfandel for those who attend our family harvest!’

“Local wine enthusiasts may also appreciate the small vineyard planting located at the Mercury Insurance building in Rancho Cucamonga, designed by Architerra Design Group in Rancho Cucamonga.”


LA Times
“Uprooting Old Vines”

by Jerry Hirsch
October 11, 2003

"…This is California’s original wine country - and it’s going fast. Decades before Napa Valley became synonymous with California wine, Cucamonga Valley, about an hour east of Los Angeles, was home to more than 35,000 acres of vineyards and as many as 60 wineries.

"Today, the Cucamonga Valley American Viticulture Area is down to fewer than 800 acres of vineyard and three commercial wineries, including Galleano’s, whose namesake business produces about 100,000 gallons of mostly bulk wine annually.

"Nestled in one of the fastest-growing regions in the state, Cucamonga Valley has become far too valuable for growing grapes: An undeveloped acre can fetch upwards of $200,000. Yet the surviving 50-to-100-year-old vines scattered across the valley’s floor are prized within the wine industry for their complex fruit. ‘The great irony here is that Cucamonga Zinfandel now has a higher reputation than it did when this was a vast growing region,’ said Thomas Pinney, a retired Pomona College professor and author of [u]A History of Wine in America: From the Beginnings to Prohibition[/u].

“…‘These were very old vines … and may have been some of the original cuttings from the Old World,’ Chattan said.

"Despite its rich heritage, the 35-acre ‘De Ambrogio Ranch’ was not a very profitable business, yielding only $10,000 to $20,000 a year in income for the family that had owned the property for three generations. With the clan’s 86-year-old matriarch in an assisted-living facility, the De Ambrogio family decided to sell the land two years ago.

“…‘We all knew that De Ambrogio was going to disappear, if for no other reason than it was at the intersection of two busy streets,’ Chattan said.

"All that’s left of the historic ‘De Ambrogio Vineyard’ are about two acres of Zinfandel cuttings planted at Cal Poly Pomona, as well as several vines that have been transplanted in Napa Valley, where UC Davis researchers hope to preserve the old-growth strain.

“‘If this was a structure, they would have declared it a historical site and prevented this from happening,’ said James Wolpert, chairman of the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology. ‘You just don’t make 100-year-old Zinfandel vines. We are losing a piece of California’s heritage’…".


“Lopez Vineyard”:


Fontana Herald News
“Galleano Winery Pickers are Harvesting 220 Acres of Wine-Producing Vines on Lopez Ranch in Fontana”

by Mike Myers
September 13, 2019


Wine Spectator
“Disappearing Act: A Once-Vast Southern California Wine Region Faces an Uncertain Future”

by Jean T. Barrett
January 18, 2001

Wonder if that vineyard still exists?

If you are referring to the first site (mentioned in the Daily Bulletin) the answer is Yes…for now.

The “Gateway Vineyard’s” 90-year-old vines remain in the ground.


Per Google Maps, the current property owner is Haven Investors, Inc. Presumably, this is the company that leased the two-parcel vineyard to Galleano Winery until the planned hotel construction project comes to fruition.



Calavetti Vineyards produced a 2020 “4th and Haven” Field Blend from this site. The Daily Bulletin piece states that this location was planted in 1930, while the Calavetti webpage asserts that the vines date back to 1918.

I would have guessed that the “Gateway Vineyard” place-name is proprietary, except the Los Angeles River Winery’s 2021 “Phulax” Zinfandel makes use of the moniker on its label.


from the Calavetti Vineyards website:

"Planted in 1918, this organic, own-rooted, and dry farmed Zinfandel and Mission is from one of the only remaining vineyards in the historic region of the Cucamonga Valley in Southern California. After 100 years of struggling in loose sand, the vines are only 18 inches tall. Each produces a few tiny ‘monkey fist’ clusters that look more like Pinot Noir than typical Zinfandel. The best clusters are shaded underneath leaves and are often resting on the sand. In order to pick them, we kneel on the ground, careful to avoid the fire ants. We lift each shoot, find the hidden clusters, and repeat the process for hours.

"The Mission variety is our prize at the end. They are more like small trees than vines. Each vine carries huge clusters of lightly-colored Mission grapes. Exhausted in the mid-day heat, we finish the pick by filling up the remainder of the bin with these Mission clusters.

“Ripe peaches, dried fruit, tea leaves, and citrus peel on the nose. The palate is bright red-fruit, cinnamon, and tarragon. This vintage is shockingly balanced on the palate for a big wine. The blend of 60% Zinfandel and 40% Mission combine seamlessly into a wine that is reminiscent of a California Nebbiolo.”



Google Maps
“9599 Haven Ave, Rancho Cucamonga, CA”


San Bernardino County Assessor’s Office

  • APN #0210081420000


  • APN #0210081410000

GIS Parcel Map of San Bernardino County:
https://arcpropertyinfo.sbcounty.gov/

I located a few more articles on the diminishing number of winegrape cultivars. Multi-market advertising campaigns and culinary fashions incentivize homogeneous tastes. As a result, outlyers may fall into obscurity.


Wine Spectator
“Saving Rare Wine Grapes from Extinction”

by Lynn Alley
December 17, 2014

By-line: “A leading vine geneticist and others are preserving an old Swiss vineyard with very rare varieties, including Chardonnay’s and Riesling’s parent.”

"…In 2010, Swiss winemaker Josef-Marie Chanton, a pioneer in grapevine preservation, contacted his fellow countryman and grapevine geneticist José Vouillamoz about a terraced vineyard in Switzerland’s Haut Valais region. Located in the German-speaking part of the country, the area is home to the Matterhorn and the headwaters of the Rhône and has a winemaking history that stretches back hundreds of years.

“Some of the vines in the vineyard are upwards of 80-years-old, and the entire parcel was supposed to be ripped-up. But Chanton told Vouillamoz that among the 12 planted varieties in the vineyard, several were quite rare. According to Vouillamoz, those four are Gwäss, Completer, Himbertscha and VinEsch Roter…”.

GuildSomm
“Indigenous Grapes: Our Past, Our Future?”

by In Bryce Wiatrak

“…Diversity Lost, Diversity Regained”

"As with so much in the modern history of wine, the 19th-Century phylloxera crisis, beginning in France in the 1860s, marked the watershed moment in the decline of Europe’s grape diversity.

"…Replanting allowed vignerons to reassess their winegrowing strategies, and only the most financially advantageous varieties made the cut for many producers. Of paramount importance were yield and consistency…

"Varieties that demonstrated signs of other maladies, as well as those that were low-yielding, difficult to ripen, or susceptible to other challenges such as millerandage or coulure, were more likely to face eradication regardless of potential quality. Clonal diversity similarly decreased. Certain varieties showed more likely to reject grafting onto American rootstock - the antidote to phylloxera - resulting in their diminished roles, too. It’s impossible to quantify just how many varieties were lost, but the number can only be immense.

"The great European replant not only narrowed the field of extant grapes, it also largely eliminated the environment in which new ones might emerge. Before phylloxera, grapes were generally interplanted, and vines were propagated through provignage, or layering…

“But phylloxera wasn’t the last nail in the coffin for many grapes: the 20th century brought a host of new obstacles. The emergence of controlled appellation systems, beginning in 1935 with the establishment of what would become France’s INAO, further hindered the survival of many cultivars. While generally viewed as a tremendous advancement for fine wine, controlled appellations, as have been adopted across Europe, have also contradicted desires to preserve the most imperiled of native grapes. By codifying into law which varieties are permitted to be grown within an appellation, winegrowers are given little reason to continue cultivating those grapes that cannot afford them the highest tier on the quality pyramid…”.

Me and My Big Mouth
“Ancient Grapes”


Online Winegrape Directories:

Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC)
Search: Cultivar Name

Wine Lovers Page
Winegrape Glossary

by Anthony J. Hawkins