Fellow berserkers,
I’m going to France in June for some producer visits and was wondering who in Savennieres (other than Closel, Joly, Baumard) is making great wine.
Any help/recommendations would be appreciated.
Cheers
Eric Morgat.
Jim Budd might have some suggestions.
Chateau d’Epire - the Cuvee Speciale is my favorite Savennieres.
- 1 on Morgat. Also Laureau and Mosse (although he is mostly in Anjou and makes only makes one Savennieres).
Enjoy! Would be curious to hear who you think the standouts are after making the rounds.
I second Ch. d’Epire, and also recommend Domaine aux Moines: http://www.domaine-aux-moines.com/en/VinsE.html
Domaine Jo Pithon
+2 on Domaine aux Moines and Ch. d’Epiré. A young producer making really wild (and good) Savennières is Loic Mahé at Domaine Gué d’Orger.
The rather newly established (2005?) Domaine FL, located in Rochefort-sur-Loire. I had an excellent '08 Roche aux Moines from them last week.
I second Frank’s suggestion - Domaine FL is the one to visit (formerly Château de Chamboureau). Their range of wines is very impressive - the 08 Roche aux Moines was the best wine I tasted at the Salon des Vins de Loire in January. Definitely the one to follow. Eric Morgat is a bit more debatable - I’ve had premox problems with several vintages, due perhaps to the use of malolactic fermentation. The same is true of Mme Laroche’s wines. You could also try Vincent Ogereau. As for Baumard, well each to his own!
Another vote for Ch. d’Epiré.
It’s nice to see some new names for me to try as well.
How do wines from Savennieres differ from Vouvray or Montlouis? Does each area tend to have certain characteristics?
Julian,
My own discovery of Domaine FL is entirely due to your excellent review from the Salon des Vins de Loire:
[I hadn’t seen your last post in that thread but found Saratoga Wine Exchange through WineSearcher and they sent me a few bottles of the '08 Roche Aux Moines before the weather got too hot for shipping.]
Thanks again for the tip; the wine is just as you described.
Almost all of the Savannieres wines that I’ve had are dry.
I’ve had many more off-dry ones from both Vouvray and Montlouis.
I’m not sure if the differentiation I described above is the rule.
Not sure how accurate, but probably not too far off the mark regarding Savennieres AOC info:
Thanks Frank, glad to have been of help!
Jeff, when they’re good, Savennières are on another planet compared to Vouvray and Montlouis. I suppose if I had to very broadly rank them in order of merit, it would be:
- Savennières
- Vouvray
- Montlouis
Obviously this is like ranking Pauillac, St.Julien and Margaux, there are good and bad examples of all, but IMHO a top Savennières will always beat the other two, because of their greater precision, elegance and finesse. They have an ethereal quality that sets them apart. a beguiling combination of flinty minerality, soaring pear and honey flavours, plus a fresh, crispness that is rounded rather than angular. Sounds odd I’m sure but I can’t express it any other way.
The only problem is that there aren’t that many good Savennières. Vouvray and Montlouis have made huge progress thanks to several young (well they were!) producers such as Blot, Chidaine and Fouquet, whereas before the arrival of Domaine FL, Savennières had either vegetated, or, in the case of Baumard, seriously regressed. On the evidence of what I tasted at Angers, Savennières is still losing ground. But try some of the producers mentioned here - if you like Vouvray and Montlouis, you should like Savennières.
I think so. First of all, the soils differ. In Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire, you have mostly clay soils with a bit of limestone (e.g. Clos du Bourg), Silica (e.g. Le Mont) or tuffeau. In Montlouis-sur-Loire, the soils have more sand in them. In Savennières on the other hand, you have a mix of different soil types, also with schist, slate, quartz, granite and other soil types (for an analysis of the Savennières soils, read here: http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/savennieres_inthevineyard.htm).
For my taste, (dry) Chenins from Savennières and from Vouvray are the perfect antipodes, Vouvray more harmonic, balanced, slightly restrained, not often with high alcohol, Savennières untamed, wild, very expressive and often with high alcohol. It could be the producers, but since I’ve had those impressions across several producers, I also think it’s a regional thing.
Thanks for the responses. My Loire chenin experience is limited to Chidaine mostly, though I have enjoyed some Huet and Foreau sec wines. I’ll have to search out a few Savennieres to try.
Rob, I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Domaine FL is the remnants of Jo Pithon’s original domaine. Jo took on a deep-pocketed partner and the short story is that there was a falling out and Jo walked away from 30 years of labor and had to start again, setting up as a negoc/eleveur in 2008. Jo is a great winemaker and the story behind losing his original domaine is terrible IMHO. Still a great winemaker and he is set up under Pithon-Paillé. The Coteaux Layon’s that he made of his domaine are stunning wines and fortunate to still have a few bottles around.
This is good to know. Thanks for this update, Andrew. The most recent vintage of Domaine Jo Pithon I own is 2005, which shows you when I last saw it. That’s why I suggested Bob try to get it. But I will now keep an eye out for the new label. Really appreciate this.
In my experience Vouvray and Savennières might as well be made from different grapes. I like Savennières a lot but in general I think it’s a difficult wine to like and has a narrow window of maturity when it really peaks. In that window it can be great.
Vouvray is easy to like and has something for everyone. You can enjoy it superficially or analyze it deeply. Drink it young or old. Serve it to your mother in law or your wine geek friend.