Saturday night in Denver
Traci and I meet up with a small subset of the local Denver crew last night for a fantastic evening with some great bottles. The venue was Mark’s stunning abode in downtown Denver and due to showing up late, the festival was in full swing when we arrived. The night started off with a beautiful bottle of 1990 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée. Rich, aromatic and full bodied, this didn’t seem quite up to a previous bottle but was drinking fantastically none the less. There’s still some tannic grip on the finish and this doesn’t seem to be fading to me.
A corked bottle of 1990 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve was a let down but just to put it in perspective, Mark had the bottle sitting next to his corked 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild… suddenly the disappointment for the Rayas was transferred to the Mouton. Hilariously, Mark had opened this bottle weeks ago but was still hanging onto it… probably just to remind himself to sell his remaining bottles. I had to try it… and can confirm that it was corked… and had been open for some time.
A still young and enjoyable 1998 Louis Bernard Châteauneuf-du-Pape was followed up by the 1995 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I’ve had this multiple times recently and it’s still a pup in terms of development. Clean, pure and very aromatic, this is still tight on the palate. Unfortunately I didn’t get around to trying the 1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape and you have to be quick around this crowd as the 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape had long since disappeared.
The 1999 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve was fantastic. Rich, complex and with a sense of elegance, this is beautifully balanced with youthful fruit and complementing oak, fantastic texture and a long finish. Would easily pass for a Bordeaux.
The mammoth 2002 Alban Vineyards Pandora didn’t seem to go over too well with the group but was stunning in its concentration, depth and richness. Heady notes of blackberry, cassis, violets, minerals and scorched earth come leaping out of the glass of this beauty and the palate is full bodied, textured, precise and very long. Still extremely young, this needs 4 or 5 years in the cellar.
Despite having Mitch Hersh in the crowd, burgs/pinots were in short supply. A slightly tired 1985 Echezeaux (I failed to get the producer) improved over the evening but was eclipsed by a rocking 2004 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir East Block. Filled with sweet cherry flavors mixed with vanilla and spice, this had a great palate that was balanced, rich and long.
At this point in the evening, Mark graciously opened a staggering bottle of 1990 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire that was filled with massive garrigue, spice box and stone notes blended with sweet red fruit aromatics. Despite seeing close to 18 months in new oak, this doesn’t show a hint of wood and is intense, perfumed and complex. This continued to flesh out in the glass and showed a full bodied palate with rich fruit, awesome texture and a finish that just wouldn’t quit. Drinking at point and simply a stunning Chateauneuf!!
Prior to capping the evening with cigars (and some laser pen debauchery) a rocking bottle of 1988 Château Rieussec was sucked down with an orange glaze coated vanilla cake. Sweet, balanced and filled with marmalade and apricot jam notes, the palate is balanced, rich and long.
Wines:
1990 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 95
1990 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve Corked
1986 Château Mouton Rothschild Corked
1998 Louis Bernard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 90
1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape NR
1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape NR
1995 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92
1999 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve 93
2002 Alban Vineyards Pandora 94
2004 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir East Block 93
1990 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire 98
1988 Château Rieussec 95
