Santa Clara & San Benito Wine Heritage

The 1927 Soil Survey of the Gilroy Area, CA provides a fascinating snapshot in time.

Gilroy did not become an important player in Santa Clara Valley grape-growing until well after California’s Phylloxera epidemic. In the 1880s, the township specialized in growing wheat and raising cattle. 1.2 million pounds of cheese were produced in Gilroy, a testament to the importance of local dairy farms.

Families of European and Japanese origin played a large part in early 20th Century agriculture. Gilroy farmers developed fruit orchards, seed crops, and small vineyards.

By the the 1920s, Italian immigrants around Morgan Hill and Gilroy were trying their hand at winegrape cultivation. At the same time, suburban growth in northern Santa Clara was increasing. In time, the famous “Valley of Heart’s Delight” would all but disappear.




Hathi Trust
US Dept. of Agriculture
Bureau of Chemistry and Soils
Washington, DC
Soil Survey of the Gilroy Area, California (1927)
by Stanley W. Cosby & E.B. Watson

"…The grape crop is probably the second in importance [after prunes], and consists almost exclusively of the juice or wine varieties, as very few table grapes and no raisin grapes are grown in this area. They are planted mainly on the higher areas of Pleasanton gravelly sandy loam and on the residual hill soils of the Aiken and Altamont series. The depth of these soils is the main factor in their productiveness, although grapes will do fairly well on shallow soils comparatively low in moisture.

"Cultural practices are simple, consisting of spring plowing followed by harrowing, and such cultivation as can be given before the canes of the vines spread. Some suckering and thinning out of the canes is done where the growth is too rank and shades the fruit excessively. Pruning is done, preferably late in winter, the vines being cut back severely, leaving only a few short canes at the head of the main trunk. The latter is headed 12 or 18 inches from the ground. The vines are not trellised, and very few varieties are supported on wires. Frost does considerable harm in some seasons.

“…Grapes begin to ripen about the 1st of September, and harvesting continues until the middle of November, depending upon the variety. The grapes are picked by hand into 30-pound lug boxes for shipment to the eastern markets. Of the 1922 crop, 433 carloads were shipped from the area (as compared to 164 carloads in 1921); about 65 carloads were used locally or shipped out by auto truck; possibly 250 carloads were lost because of the shortage of railroad cars. The average opening price in the season of 1922 was $80 a ton, but the price dropped later in the season…”.


Hathi Trust
US Dept. of Agriculture
Bureau of Chemistry and Soils
Washington, DC

· Soil Survey of the Hollister Area, California (1927)
by Stanley W. Cosby & E.B. Watson

· Soil Survey of the Santa Cruz area, California (1935)
by R Earl Storie

· Soil Survey: San Benito County, California (1969)
by Dan Isgrig


USDA NRCS
Published Soil Surveys for California:
https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/surveylist/soils/survey/state/?stateId=CA

UC Davis
CA Soil Resource
Soil Web Interactive Map of Soil Surveys:
https://casoilresource.lawr.ucdavis.edu/gmap


*** EDIT ***

Hilgardia Vol.1 No.18 (p.455-480)
“Utilization of the Soils in the Gilroy Region”
by Stanley W. Cosby
May, 1926
DOI: 10.3733/hilg.v01n18p455

PDF Download Link:
https://hilgardia.ucanr.edu/fileaccess.cfm?article=151963&p=GOYIAR

Recently, BenitoLink has highlighted a few regional wineries and fruit-growing operations. Below are some of Robert Eliason’s articles.

I was surprised to read about the launch of Idyll Time Winery.


BenitoLink
“Eat, Drink, Savor: Comanche Cellars brings the taste of San Benito County to Monterey”
by Robert Eliason
October 31, 2021

"…Comanche Cellars in Monterey sources many of their grapes from Siletto Family Vineyards in Tres Pinos and that vineyard’s remarkable quality and variety shine through in the wines that Comanche produces.

"…Simons named the winery after a horse he had in his youth, and he was known for using Comanche to help him deliver newspapers.

“Simons expanded into opening his own tasting room in 2016, located in downtown Monterey at 412 Alvarado Street…”.

Idyll-Time-1.jpeg


BenitoLink
“Eat, Drink, Savor: Golden Retriever, Jovial Jesters, and Venetian Masks Celebrate New Winery, Idyll Time”
by Robert Eliason
November 14, 2021

"Anthony Escover founded ‘Idyll Time Vineyard’ in Hollister in 1999. But it was not until this year, under his daughter Joan Escover, his grandson Nathan Chang, and Nathan’s wife Alexia, that the vineyard released wines under the Idyll Time label.

"…Anthony started with plantings of Zinfandel and Syrah, four acres of each, and added two acres of Pinot Noir in 2002. He was joined in the grape business by his brother Dave, who founded ‘Spring Grove Vineyard’. They sold their harvests to wineries in the area, including Pessagno Winery in Gonzales, owned by Chang’s uncle, Steve Pessagno.

"Chang remembers helping to plant the first vines when he was 10 years old and later took viticulture classes at CSU-Fresno.

"…Following Anthony’s death in 2016, Chang bought the vineyard and continued selling grapes until the market suddenly dropped.

“‘In 2019, we had a hard time selling the grapes,’ said Chang. ‘We decided to pick them for ourselves and create our own label. We now use 100% of the grapes we grow just for our wines.’

“The wines are produced with guidance from master winemaker Al DeRose of DeRose Winery in Cienega Valley. Idyll Time debuted this year with three 2019 releases: ‘ZinFest’ Zinfandel, ‘Que Syrah’ Syrah, and their flagship wine, a Syrah-Pinot Noir blend called ‘Syrapinot’…”.


Siletto Family Vineyards has been discussed previously on this thread, including Randy Smith’s excellent interview with John Siletto on The Wine Write.


BenitoLink
“Eat, Drink, Savor: Siletto Family Vineyards is a Wonderland for Visiting Winemakers”
by Robert Eliason
October 3, 2021

"…Spread over 125 acres in the San Benito, Paicines and Cienega Valley American Viticultural Areas, the Siletto Family Vineyards offers grapes that were the staple of winemakers in San Benito County 170 years ago like Trousseau, Négrette, Trousseau Gris, and Cabernet Pfeffer along with Greco di Tufo, Aligoté, Mencía, Vermentino, Montepulciano, Nebbiolo, and many others that are mostly impossible to find in this area.

"The story of Siletto’s carefully curated varietals has its origins in a much bigger corporate winemaking operation. Founder Ron Siletto was president of Almaden Wines, which was one of the biggest winemakers in the world until it was sold to Heublein in 1986. When the local Almaden properties were sold, Siletto purchased 25 acres in Paicines and began to work it himself.

"…At one point, winemaking conglomerate Constellation was Siletto’s biggest customer, taking 80% of the harvest. But Constellation’s ravenous need for grapes saw them signing contracts with huge vineyards and cutting off smaller producers.

“‘We were too small for them to deal with,’ said John. ‘That is when I started getting involved. I told my dad we should go organic and take advantage of the diverse grapes we are growing by marketing to smaller, natural winemakers. With that, we can get the kind of pricing we want and they can get the kind of care and quality they need. We mapped out what we had in the vineyards and started going after that market.’

"…‘We have 35 varietals, 35 customers, and 120 different harvest events,’ John said. ‘I email or call everyone every week, telling them what the sugars are for their blocks. I feel that between my dad’s work and our sincere dedication to our customers that it is really paying off. We are not that big—we don’t have big stone gates at our entryway or some fancy mansion up here. We just have good value grapes and our interest in providing for our customers.’

“…“I think our varieties are what make us special,’ John said. ‘Particularly with vineyards like Eden Rift, nobody is going to come to San Benito County to buy Pinot Noir from us. There is just too much great Pinot Noir around here. That’s why we transitioned to more Grenache and more Cabernet Pfeffer. Add in the organic farming and I think that makes all the difference’…”.


Comanche Cellars website:
https://www.comanchecellars.com/

Idyll Time Wines website:
https://idylltimewines.com/

Siletto Family Vineyards website:
https://www.silettofamilyvineyards.com/

In the past, I have posted about the Mirassou family’s contributions to the winemaking industry of Santa Clara Valley and beyond.

Steven Kent Mirassou published a book recently, sharing biographical sketches of his ancestors and their impact on area wine culture.



Edible Silicon Valley
“Interview with Steven Kent Mirassou: Remembering America’s Oldest Wine Family”

by Mary Orlin
November 18, 2021


"…In his new book Lineage: Life and Love and Six Generations in California Wine, Steven Mirassou artfully crafts a love letter to wine and winemaking seasoned by a legacy of a multigenerational family’s passion and pursuits growing and bottling California wine. Filled with history and personal memories, the book evokes a love for the land, grape growing and the family history of winemaking—this is not your typical wine read.

"…I sat down with Steven Mirassou to talk about his storied family lineage as vintners and the craft of California winemaking, along with a deep dive into where it all started: right here in Silicon Valley!

"…Mary Orlin: ‘How do you view the contributions your family made to California’s wine industry and Silicon Valley? Let’s go back to the Pelliers, when they arrived and what they did.’

"Steven Kent Mirassou: ‘The way the family chronicles the story is in 1854 Pierre Pellier [Mirassou’s great-great-great-grandfather] was joining his older brother, Louis, who started a nursery and growing operation in San Jose. Louis had already been out here and it appears Pierre came out to California in 1852 before leaving for France to return with vine and tree plantings for the business. Back in that time you could actually get into San Jose through San Francisco Bay at a shipping port at Alviso. Louis sent Pierre back to France to get the French prune, prune d’agen, cuttings and trees, vine cuttings of Mourvédre, Pinot Noir and some 20 other grape varieties. The vines from the shipments Pierre returned with began plantings in Santa Clara Valley in 1854.’

"MO: ‘Did the family in France grow grapes?’

SKM: ‘They were certainly growing grapes to make wine for themselves. The Pelliers came from a little town called Saint-Hippolyte, east of La Rochelle, a big port town, in the Bordeaux area.’”

B Generations 4, 5 and 6, grandfather Norbert, father Steve and Steven Kent Mirassou. (Courtesy of Steven Kent Mirassou)_0.png
"…MO: ‘What are your impressions of what’s happened in the Santa Clara Valley since your family left?’

"[Interview Note: The Mirassou San Jose era drew to a close in 2002, when that side of the family sold the brand to E. & J. Gallo Winery. The Mirassous sold the Aborn Road winery land for housing development in 2005.]

SKM: ‘It’s a shame. There’s a chapter in the book called “Gods of Asphalt and Shingle,” which tells the story about how Silicon Valley and the development of the computer business in that area really led to the development of housing tract after housing tract, which inevitably meant the loss of acre after acre after acre of some of the greatest growing area in the world. When I was a kid, across the street from the winery were hundreds and hundreds of acres of apricot and other fruit trees that smelled amazing as they were going into bloom, and were incredibly beautiful. That is gone’…”.

Storrs Winery, located in Aptos, CA, just made available its newest wines.


from a December, 2021, Storrs Instagram post:

· 2019 “Rodeo Ridge” Chardonnay - Double Gold winner, 2021 Sunset Magazine International Wine Competition

· 2018 “St. Clare” Bordeaux Red - 48% Petit Verdot, 36% Merlot, & 16% Cabernet Sauvignon

· 2018 “Rusty Ridge” Petite Sirah - from old vines on Mt. Madonna


I shared an email excerpt from Under the Mountain Vineyard’s Dick Gregory on an older thread post. He stated that his family sold fruit from their Redwood Reteat Rd vineyard to Storrs. The Storrs Zinfandel produced from this old-vine site was labeled “Lion Oaks Vyd”, and the Petite Sirah was called “Rusty Ridge Vyd”.


from Storrs Winery’s December 16, 2021, email:

"…We have several new wines + our Estate Sparkling Rosé from ‘Hidden Springs’…


"The 2019 ‘Rodeo Ridge’ Chardonnay
DOUBLE-GOLD MEDAL- 2021 Sunset Magazine International Wine Competition

“This wine hails from the hills above Soquel and benefits from the marine-influenced climate that comes in on the cooling evening breezes from Monterey Bay each afternoon. Filled with toasty oak and bright notes of pear and pineapple, the 2019 is resplendent with a Chablis-esque structure that would make it the perfect wine to serve with Dungeness crab cakes or lobster.”


"The 2019 ‘Wildcat Ridge’ Chardonnay
GOLD MEDAL - 2021 Sunset Magazine International Wine Competition

“The biggest and boldest of our Mountain Vineyard Collection, the 2019 ‘Wildcat Ridge’ from the hillside where we often find the mama bobcat hunting with her kittens yields a wine that can complement turkey with all of the fixings as well as the richness of a holiday goose. The full-bodied palate reveals notes of butter, mountain pear, pippin apple and a minerality unique to mountain-grown fruit. Also, consider this wine when you just want to sip a great Chardonnay beside the fire.”


"The 2018 Central Coast Zinfandel
from the warm eastern-side of Mount Madonna

“Several old vine vineyards come together to create this fruit-forward blend filled with bright notes of cherry & blackberry complimented by notes of vanilla & clove owing to aging in French and American cooperage. Given this wine’s heritage, it will pair splendidly with everything from lasagne Bolognese to beef tenderloin.”


"The 2017 ‘Hidden Springs’ Estate Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir, Méthode Champenoise

“Created in the traditional method, this wine was pressed from the organically-grown Pinot Noir in our estate vineyard – ‘Hidden Springs’ – and then treated as a rosé destined for bubbles. That is to say, fermented slowly in stainless with a yeast that coaxes delicate notes of rose petal and candied pink lady apple from the fruit while imbuing the wine with toasty, yeasty notes. We then racked the wine to 2-year-old French oak barrels to allow a bit more richness into the wine as it aged. Following the secondary fermentation in bottle, the wine was disgorged and sealed with a minimum of dosage to yield a wine that has lovely fruit, a very delicate bead and roundness on the palate reminiscent of a Tête de Cuvée…”.


Storrs Winery website:
https://www.storrswine.com/

Storrs Facebook page:
https://m.facebook.com/storrswine

Interesting. I knew the Lion Oaks part. Have had an eye out. Their website has no info on the matter. Their last Lion Oaks wine that shows up anywhere is an '09 LH Zin. CT shows their first Lion Oaks Zin as '95 and has them making a Rusty Ridge Zin form '97 to current (with label image verification back to '00).

The place could easily be considered two separate vineyards. Bedrock only takes fruit from the upper (southern) area. So???

Wes, a few days ago, I would have felt confident about Mr Gregory’s comments. After perusing the internet for more information, I have become very confused.

The “Rusty Ridge” Zin data sheets on Storrs’ website state that the grapes came from several vineyards. I believe that “Lion Oaks” Zinfandels were single-vineyard bottlings. A few Storrs wine data sheets can be found by performing a Google search for https://www.storrswine.com/s/


2021 Zinfandel Experience: “Women Winemakers”

During the 2021 ZAP! ZinEx “Women Winemakers” virtual tasting, Mrs Pamela Storrs explained that the 2017 “Rusty Ridge” Zinfandel was from one old-vine site.


Vimeo
Crush Wine Experiences
2021 Zinfandel Experience
“Virtual ZinEx Day 2”
video
“Women Winemakers” Tasting

Pamela Storrs on Storrs 2017 Zinfandel

Here are some details Pam Storrs provided about the wine:

· sourced from a site on the eastern side of Mt Madonna;
· fog off of the summit at night cools the fruit, preserve acidity;
· vines planted around 1910;
· Zin yields of 1/4 to 1/2 ton per acre.


Storrs Facebook Video Presentations

In January, 2021, Pamela Bianchini-Storrs and Stephen Storrs hosted two tastings of “Rusty Ridge” Zinfandels (Storrs Facebook video). Another video focused on the “Rusty Ridge” Petite Sirah.


After viewing the ZinEx presentation, as well as 3 or 4 Storrs Facebook videos, I now am unable to differentiate between the “Lion Oaks” and “Rusty Ridge” vineyards.


Storrs’ Old-Vine Sources:

Aside from harvesting sites in the shadow of Mt Madonna, Storrs has produced wines from the “Besson Vyd”, “Clawfoot Vyd”(?), and “Two Creek Vyd”.

Old-vine grapes from several tiny backyard vineyards regularly contribute to the winery’s “Central Coast” Zinfandel bottlings. About half the fruit used in Storrs’ “Central Coast” Zins comes from Monterey County.

According to the Historic Vineyard Society profile for Kuchan Estate’s “Lepi Bregi Vineyard”, Storrs Winery is listed among the producers who have made use of its grapes. I don’t know what name this Morgan Hill site went by in years past.


*** EDIT ***

Storrs Wine Notes from Release Emails:

· "2017 Santa Cruz Mountains Petite Sirah

“Grown on a hillside terrace of Pleasant Valley, these vines yield a very Bordeaux-styled Petite…. This wine is balanced with firm, yet supple, tannins that create a medium-to-heavy bodied red wine that never overwhelms your palate. Aromas of plums and cassis fill your glass, while flavors of black currant and ripe Bing cherries dance across your tongue. Though excellent now, this wine will only improve with time in your wine cellar. Highly recommended with an autumn cassoulet or as a superior choice for Thanksgiving.” (Oct. 1, 2020)

· "2018 ‘Central Coast’ Zinfandel
(from the warm eastern-side of Mount Madonna)

“Several old vine vineyards come together to create this fruit-forward blend filled with bright notes of cherry & blackberry complimented by notes of vanilla & clove owing to aging in French and American cooperage. Given this wine’s heritage, it will pair splendidly with everything from lasagne Bolognese to beef tenderloin.” (Dec. 26, 2021)


Additional Info:

Plant Grape Blog
“Sommelier Panel at ZAP”
January 13, 2015

"…2007 Storrs Zinfandel ‘Rusty Ridge Vineyard’ Santa Clara County $30

From an old vine vineyard near Morgan Hill on the east side of the Santa Cruz Mountains, this complex, layered, and very elegant Zinfandel really caught my attention. With notes of blueberry, blackberry, and cedar, and at 15.8% alcohol, it was certainly a big, bold Zin, but a combination of its age and higher, if not necessarily perceptible acidity gave incredible depth and balance. The vineyard yields fruit with very low pH so acids are high and the wine takes longer to develop.”

Below, I have listed some of the vineyard sites that have served as fruit sources for the wines of Storrs:


“Bates Ranch”, Redwood Retreat / Mt Madonna, SCM (Grenache)

“Christie Vineyard”, Pleasant Valley, Corralitos district, SCM (Chardonnay)

“Elm Vineyard”, Greenfield district, Monterey (Chardonnay)

“Mann Vineyard” (aka Mann Cellars), 7474 Crews Road, Gilroy, Santa Clara County (Grenache)

“Mesa del Rio Vineyard”, Greenfield district, Monterey (Chardonnay)

“Redwood Hill Vineyard”, Summit district, SCM (Chardonnay)

• “Rodeo Ridge Vineyard”, Soquel Hills district, SCM (Chardonnay)

“San Ysidro Vineyard”, 3385 Pacheco Pass Highway, Gilroy, Santa Clara (Merlot)

• “Two Creek Vineyard”, Santa Clara County (Grenache)

"Details from 2016 Grenache fact sheet:

  • old-vine, dry-farmed, head-trained;
  • clings to the eastern foothills of Mount Madonna at the southern end of the Santa Cruz Mountains;
  • deep alluvial soils;
  • warm days & chilly nights allow for the development of accents of white pepper complemented by deep notes of strawberry and raspberry"

from K&L website:
“…an old vine vineyard located at the confluence of two mountain streams which tumble down the slopes of Mount Madonna at the southern end of the Santa Cruz Mountains.”

• “Wildcat Ridge Vineyard” (Storrs estate), 1560 Pleasant Valley Road, Corralitos district, SCM (Chardonnay)

“Viento Vineyard”, Monterey County (Gewurtztraminer)


Articles on Storrs Winery:

Santa Cruz Sentinel
“Wine Press: Storrs One of First to Make Wines Exclusively from Santa Cruz County Fruit”
by Stacey Vreeken
July 27, 2011

Santa Cruz Mountains & Santa Clara Valley Wines Blog
“Storrs”
by David Tong
July 6, 2008

UC Riverside
California Digital Newspaper Collection
Santa Cruz Sentinel Vol 145, #51
"Science, Passion make for Great Santa Cruz Wine " (page 11)
by Ramona Turner
February 21, 2001


Storrs Winery website:
https://www.storrswine.com/

In addition to providing information about regional surface- & ground- water sources and irrigation practices, the following text may help identify historical landowners of the Hollister area of San Benito County.


Google Books
US Dept. of Agriculture
Quality of Irrigation Waters of the Hollister Area of CA Issues 726-750 (1941)
by Thomas Stewart Buchanan, Frank M Eaton, etc.




Within this expansive text, Issue #746 contains details related to the specific locations of San Benito’s surface water sources and wells dedicated to agriculture.

Table #11 provides many contemporary landowner names and locations. This may assist efforts to determine who owned what agricultural properties in San Benito County during the early 20th Century.


*** EDIT ***

California Irrigation Management Information System (CIMIS) website:
https://cimis.water.ca.gov/

Station 126: San Benito (Hollister)

Station 143: San Juan Valley (SW of Hollister)

While reading about land conservation efforts in the San Francisco Bay area, I encountered statements praising the effectiveness of the LAFCO’s work in Santa Clara County.

This struck me as odd. Decades ago, urban encroachment and suburban sprawl resulted in the destruction of almost all of the vineyards and orchards in northern Santa Clara Valley.




The San Jose area, once the “Valley of Heart’s Delight”, rapidly transformed into “Silicon Valley”.

In the aftermath of this explosion of unimpeded development, organizations like the LAFCO emerged. Theoretically, this is why agriculture and open spaces still can be found in southern Santa Clara County.

Modern ordinances often guarantee a balance between urban expansion and green lands. When a large-scale project is planned by a county or city, a comparable amount of undeveloped acreage is designated for preservation.


County of Santa Clara
Department of Planning and Development
“Santa Clara Valley Agricultural Plan: Investing in our Working Lands for Regional Resilience”



Santa Clara LAFCO Resources
· LAFCO Policies:

“Policies for Gilroy Agricultural Lands Area”

· Maps:

“Interactive Planning Map”

“2016 Santa Clara County Important Farmlands Map”
(4.37 MB PDF)

· Publications:

“How Urban Development Policies Have Made a Difference in Santa Clara County: 40 Years Later, Policies Still Cutting-Edge and Vital” (273 KB PDF):

"…If not for the countywide urban development policies and LAFCO, Santa Clara County would be a very different place today.

“In all likelihood, the County would have continuous urban development extending all the way from Palo Alto to the San Benito County border, many more homes on its scenic hillsides, no agricultural land left undeveloped, many fewer acres of publicly-owned open space preserves and parks, an irrational and inefficient, crazy quilt pattern of city, County, and special district jurisdictional and service boundaries and further fragmented local land use planning and regulation and service delivery responsibilities…”.

· Useful Links

“Before it was Silicon Valley, the Santa Clara Valley was a land of orchards and farmland. This photo, taken from the top of Mount Hamilton in 1914, shows the wide expanse of the valley.” - Madeline Stone, Business Insider




Business Insider
“22 Vintage Photos Of Silicon Valley Before It Became A Giant Tech Hub”
by Madeline Stone
July 11, 2014

For the Love of Apricots Blog
“Valley of Heart’s Delight”
by Lisa Newman
July 5, 2016

Daily Alta California, Volume 12, Number 224
“Notes of a Trip of the SFBD Agricultural Visiting Committee” (roster of growers)
August 13, 1860

Passing Farms, Enduring Values: California’s Santa Clara Valley, 2nd ed, 2001
by Yvonne Jacobson
California History Center, De Anza College (272 pages)

Santa Clara County: Harvest of Change, 1987
by Stephen M Payne
Windsor Publications (272 pages)

The Springboard Wine Company conducted an interview with Ryan Stirm of STiRM Wine Co. last year:


Springboard Wine Company You Tube video
“Good People Make Better Wine: Episode #22 Ryan Stirm”

March 9, 2021

STiRM Wine Company website:
https://www.stirmwine.com/

Below are some older and newer explorations of San Benito County’s wineries and vineyards.


Edible Monterey Bay
“On the Vine: The San Benito Wine Trail”

by Camilla M. Mann
Summer 2015

"…Venturing off 156 onto Union Road just south of Hollister, I’ve made several recent detours onto the San Benito County Wine Trail, which is less of a straight path than a lattice crisscrossing the valley between the Gavilan and the Quien Sabe Ranges. The vineyards that dot the region include both some of California’s oldest and youngest grapevines, grown by some of its most intrepid vintners, such as Calera Wine’s Josh Jensen and Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm, and a number of lesser known yet equally interesting personalities.

“What San Benito’s dozens of viticulturists and winemakers have in common is an attraction to the limestone-rich soils and moderating ocean breezes that make the area an extremely favorable one for growing wine grapes. But the similarities end there…”.

“San Benito County Wine Trail” - Roster of Wineries

Discover San Benito County
“Wine”

San Benito Crush Report.png




Capstone California
“San Benito County: General Info”

by Fred Swan

· “History”

· “Local Terroir”

· “Signature Varieties”

· “Benchmark Wineries”

Capstone California: “Regions” website:
https://capstonecalifornia.com/study-guides/regions/

An excellent article by Allison Levine was published last month that highlights several producers embracing San Benito County’s diverse variety of grapes. Unfortunately, many of the vineyards discussed are not within the titular AVA, but one can overlook that error.


Napa Valley Register
Please the Palate: “The Call of the Cienega Valley”

by Allison Levine
December 23, 2021

"…The Cienega Valley sits on the San Andrea fault line, dividing the valley floor. On the western side the soils are granite and limestone and on the eastern side the soils are granite and sandstone. Vineyards sit on the valley floor, as well as at higher ridgelines. Surrounded by mountain ranges, the Cienega Valley is protected by the hot Central Valley in the east and the cool Salinas Valley in the west, resulting in a moderate climate. Warm days are cooled by the breezes from the Monterey Bay and a diurnal shift drops temperatures at night.

“…Master Sommelier Chris Miller, who established Seabold Cellars in Monterey in 2014, focuses on cool-climate organic and sustainable vineyards in order to produce non-interventionist site-specific balanced wines. He sources fruit from Eden Rift as he sees the Cienega Valley as ‘a pretty ideal, perhaps slightly warm, spot for Pinot Noir, and a great place for Chardonnay.’”




"Miller added that ‘all the different little valleys and accompanying hillsides make for lots of different aspect and exposures to fine tune ripening and varieties.’ And with very little disease pressure and limestone soils, Miller believes that the Cienega Valley ‘has tremendous potential.’

“In addition to Pillsbury and Miller, other winemakers have been drawn to the Cienega Valley. Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon fame purchased Popelouchum, a 280-acre property in San Juan Bautista in San Benito County in 2011. Popelouchum is a Mutson word meaning paradise. And when I asked Grahm what draws him to the Cienega Valley, he responded with one word, ‘mystical’.”




"Winemaker Ian Brand, who produces I Brand, Le P’tit Paysan, and La Marea under I. Brand & Family, focuses on showcasing truly unique vineyard blocks in the Central Coast, especially Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey, and San Benito.

"Making site-specific wines, Ian seeks out vineyards based on their location, variety planted, and the relationship with the history of the region. He is drawn to San Benito because as a younger region, ‘this area can do a wide diversity. It is a county full of possibilities.’

"…Brand has introduced other young winemakers to the Cienega Valley, including Riley Hubbard of Hubba Wines in Paso Robles.

"…What she loves about the Cienega Valley is the open spaces, harking back to how Paso Robles used to be. ‘People are real; real farmers who live off the land,’ Riley shared. ‘It is an untouched area and feels like a I found a hidden gem.’

“Cienega Valley has a long wine history and the AVA, covering 2,300 acres, was established almost 40 years ago, yet it is still a rather unknown area. Fortunately, there are many winemakers who have heeded the call of the Cienega Valley and are producing wines that will put the Cienega Valley AVA on all our radars.”

Read the entire article here.


Eden Rift Vineyards website:
https://www.edenrift.com/

Seabold Cellars website:
https://www.seaboldcellars.com/

Popelouchum website:
https://www.popelouchum.com/

I. Brand & Family Winery website:
https://www.ibrandwinery.com/

Hubba Wines website:
https://www.hubbawines.com/

The City of Gilroy’s “Hecker Pass Specific Plan” began in 2004. What was once undisturbed rangeland, vineyards, and open spaces has become the target of suburban sprawl.

As Hecker Pass Hwy is regarded as the Western gateway into Gilroy, nearby grape-growing sites (like the “Besson Vyd”) soon may find themselves in the crosshairs.



The defunct A. Conrotto Winery buildings were located in the Northeast corner of the Hecker Pass Specific Plan (HPSP) area.

Solis Winery vineyards once existed on the South side of Hecker Pass Hwy, East of Goldsmith Seeds. According to the HPSP “Conservation and Resource Management” document: “The Vanni property currently produces wine grapes for the Solis winery. Hecker Pass Winery is a Vanni family-owned winery with tasting rooms located further West on Highway 152” (5.2.1).

As far as I am able to determine, the Solis vineyards have been uprooted. Although late efforts to declare the Conrotto buildings National Register of Historical Places were made, they appear to have failed.


Gilroy Dispatch
“Future of Hecker Pass”
by Gilroy Dispatch Staff
September 8, 2004

“A long-range plan that would transform Gilroy’s most scenic gateway into a residential and commercial hub is being met with cautious optimism from city planning commissioners and a few Gilroy residents…”.

http3A2F2Fgilroydispatch.blvds_.com2Fassets2F19104768719004c8a2e7fdb232fe4b20.jpg


Gilroy Dispatch
“Hecker Pass Specific Plan: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly”
by Connie Rogers
October 6, 2004

"‘The Hecker Pass area is the jewel of Gilroy. It is valued for its rural qualities, scenic views, containing working agricultural lands, open spaces, and very limited residential and commercial development. It serves as the City’s western gateway, and is a highly valued scenic resource for residents and visitors. …While some development should be allowed, care must be taken to protect the scenic qualities and rural, agricultural character of the Hecker Pass area.’

"Gilroy General Plan 2001:

"…The good

• The HPSP has done a good job with the general layout of the area. The ratio of open space (145 acres) and agriculture (115 acres) to residential (145 acres) is very good…

• The promotion of agri-tourism for the area along the Hecker Pass Highway will be beneficial to Gilroy’s tourism industry.

"The bad

"…The new language will allow 530 homes (yes, 530 homes – it’s not a typo) instead of the target number of 124 called for in the General Plan, 473 of them located south of Hecker Pass Highway. This is a monumental change in the General Plan’s vision – 349 additional houses!

"Most of the houses are clustered on the north side of Uvas Creek, a mirror image of the dense housing in Eagle Ridge which has offended many Gilroyans.

"Non-agriculture related uses will be allowed in the Hecker Pass Agriculture and Agriculture Commercial zones. Some of these uses are: outdoor amusement or recreation (what could these be – batting cages, driving ranges, water parks?), small grocery store or deli, ‘mom & pop’ style market, and restaurant. Not one of these uses has anything to do with agriculture.

There are no requirements for land designated as ‘Hecker Pass Agriculture’ and ‘Agriculture Commercial’ to be permanently protected. There is nothing to stop the property owners from applying for a Specific Plan Amendment in five or 10 years. They could change agricultural zones to ‘residential’ and this beautiful area could look just like the housing developments in the Northwest Quad…”.


Gilroy Dispatch
“More Housing Planned for Hecker Pass”
by Bryce Stoepfel
May 23, 2018
“Housing along the Hecker Pass Corridor will likely continue to expand.”

"The Gilroy Planning Commision next month is to consider an additional 72 single-family housing units immediately East of the Gilroy Municipal Golf Course.

"The expected go-ahead from the Gilroy Planning Commision was put off until the next meeting on June, 7.

"The North Hecker Pass Residential Cluster will consist of 72 single-family residential lots, seven open-space parcels, two private and two public streets on 22.44 acres of land. The lots will range from 3,710 to 13,630 square feet.

"The North Cluster is the third phase of residential growth in the land governed by the Hecker Pass Specific Plan. The East Cluster initially allowed 259 units and the West Cluster, 205.

"The North Cluster was initially allocated 52 units, but developers plan to use every unit allowed them. The East Cluster, which has developed 243 housing units, had its remaining 16 units redistributed to the North Cluster.

"…The area is bordered on the East by the golf course, vacant hillsides and homes to the North, the Barn at Hoey Ranch to the South, and vacant land to the East. The property was formerly used as pasture land.

"The development is another expansion of the Hecker Pass Specific plan, which was passed in 2005 to plan for the development of the Hecker Pass Corridor. Of the 425 acres included in the plan, 163 acres are for residential use, 115 acres for commercial and agricultural, with 125 acres set aside for open space. At first 530 total dwelling units were proposed, the Gilroy City Council later reduced it to 506 units.

"There are four planks for the Hecker Pass Specific Plan: protect and enhance the unique qualities and character of Hecker Pass Corridor, encourage dense development, to keep traffic flowing on Hecker Pass Highway by limiting driveways and preserve open space for wildlife and vegetation.

“Of the 22.44 acres in the North Cluster, 9.6 acres will be set aside for open space, parks, and landscaping…”.


Gilroy Dispatch
“Hecker Pass Attracts More Retail, Housing”
by Bryce Stoepfel
April 12, 2018

Gilroy Life
“Around Town with Robert Airoldi: Two Firms Submit Plans to Develop Tourism-Based Park on the Hecker Pass”
by Robert Airoldi
February 26, 2021

City of Gilroy
“Hecker Pass Specific Plan”:
https://www.cityofgilroy.org/277/Hecker-Pass-Specific-Plan

CA Environmental Quality Act (CEQA)
“Hecker Pass Specific Plan”:
https://ceqanet.opr.ca.gov/2003012119/2

After considering all available options pertaining to the preservation of the old A. Conrotto Winery, involved parties determined “the loss of the resource to be ‘significant and unavoidable’.”

City of Gilroy
“Hecker Pass Specific Plan”
:
“HPSP Amendment #3: Final Initial Study” (PDF)

City of Gilroy WebLink site:
http://weblink.cityofgilroy.org/WebLink/Search.aspx?cr=1

As far as I am able to determine, the Solis vineyards have been uprooted.

That was the Fratelli Vyd. that we’d sourced from. The Vannis have other vineyards, and expanded planting at one site after selling Fratelli.

Thanks, Wes! [cheers.gif]

I couldn’t recall the name of the uprooted property, but you answered that for me. Several Harrington white Italian varietial wines were discussed in this thread post.

The Vanni family’s estate vineyard is just down the street from the Hecker Pass Specific Plan area.


Solis Winery website:
https://www.soliswinery.com/

I think I finally determined the location of the Besson family’s 1920s Zinfandel planting.

According to the current parcel map, this parcel is 106.08 acres in size, though only a fraction of it is developed.




from Historic Vineyard Society profile for the Besson Vyd” (Zinfandel):

"…Purchased by the Besson Family in 1925 and farmed by them since.

“Effectively 100% Zinfandel. There are perhaps 40 Mission vines in there, planted at the same time; they produce almost nothing [though they are colossal] so those grapes are not used for the Birichino ‘Saint-Georges’ Zinfandel. As with the Grenache, there are some replacement vines here and there, but it is mostly original plantation.”


· Santa Clara County Assessor
Property Search tool:
https://www.sccassessor.org/online-services/property-search/searching-records-buying-maps

· Santa Clara County Discover GIS Map:
https://ges.sccgov.org/discovergis/sccmap
Santa Clara County Assessor
Book 810, Page 12
APN # 810-12-003

Google Maps
5050 Hecker Pass Rd, Gilroy

I have located the above-mentionedBesson Vineyard” on a 1929 map of Santa Clara County landowners. Jean Auguste Besson bought this parcel in 1925. Besson Family Vineyards currently grows 8 grape varieties on two vineyard locations. The better-recognized Grenache planting dates back to the 1910s. This vineyard is celebrated for its excellent fruit quality.

The old-growth Zinfandel vineyard rests on the South side of Hecker Pass Hwy as it curves North and to the East, parallel with Bodfish Creek, towards the city of Gilroy.




The Besson Family Vineyards website states: “…French Immigrant, Jean Auguste Besson wanted a better life in America. A local farmer and shoe salesman, Besson quite possibly never could have imagined the legacy he would leave behind. Five generations later, the family grows stronger roots and is proud of being Besson.”


McMillan & McMillan helped survey various locations along the West Coast in the early 20th Century. They drafted the meticulously detailed 4-page map from 1929 below.

Internet Archive
Official Map of Santa Clara County California
by McMillan & McMillan Civil Engineers (San Jose, Calif.), 1929

“Shows property owners, districts, railroads, roads, trails, schoolhouses. Index of roads, land grants, and subdivisions.”




Viewing this 1929 map detail depicting the western Hecker Pass corridor, it appears that the Besson old-vine Grenache planting rests on land once owned by the Milne family.

Sarah’s Vineyard and West Side Nursery are situated on a former Scagliotti family parcel. I could be wrong, however.

Randy Smith of The Wine Write interviewed winemaker and grower Michael Michaud. He and his wife Carol operate the Michaud Vineyard, located at the northern end of Chalone AVA.



The Wine Write
“Celebrating The Chalone AVA With Michael Michaud”

by Randy Smith
January 30, 2022


"…Michael Michaud was with Chalone during its salad days in the Eighties and Nineties. During that time Chalone was synonymous with wines of elegance and balance. Those bottles spoke of the granitic and limestone soils and the high desert conditions where they were grown.

“…He left Chalone Vineyard in 1997 to focus on his own brand. Michaud Vineyard is a jewel in the Chalone AVA. Its focus on the region has remained steadfast over the past quarter of a century. Michael Michaud simply wishes more of the wine world better appreciated his appellation’s history and ongoing contributions to California wine.”


"…The Wine Write: ‘Tell me about deciding to go out on your own.’

"Michael: 'I always wanted to have something of my own. In 1984 I tried to plant five acres of own-rooted Chardonnay on my property. It didn’t do too well. I think I had stored the cuttings for too long. In 1986 and 1988 I planted again. I did five acres each year. I did about three acres in 1990. It was almost all own-rooted. The last part was planted on St. George rootstock. When I had a lot of water to use, the vines did pretty well. It’s a harsh environment here. It freezes in the winter and gets really hot during the summer. It doesn’t rain much, and these soils don’t hold a lot of water. The vines began to decline. I replaced a lot of them in 2015. I also planted some different varieties.

"'At one time I was selling my Chardonnay to Chalone. This was before I planted my Pinot Noir. At the point in time when the check for selling my grapes was larger than my paycheck at Chalone, my work relationship changed. I think they began to look at me as a competitor. They complained about the acreage I had under vine. I was working at Chalone five thousand hours a year at that point, but felt like I had to justify my existence…

“‘I started my own thing and went my own way. Looking back, I might have done better by working at Chalone a few years more while I established my brand. That paycheck would have been nice, but I stuck to my principles. That’s how that went.’”

12961231_10153502513830770_7247100059054556147_o.jpg
"…The Wine Write: ‘What spurred you to plant different varieties?’

"Michael: 'What happens over time is that demand changes. At one time everyone wanted Chardonnay. Then there was too much Chardonnay. After people figured out how to grow Pinot Noir here and make wine, everyone wanted Pinot Noir. Then there was too much Pinot Noir. I changed what I was planting. I was interested in how other varieties would do here. I like to get plant material from vineyards that make wine I like. That eliminates some of the variables for me.

"‘I got cuttings from Jean-Louis Chave in the Northern Rhône. He actually worked a harvest for us one year at Chalone. I got Syrah, Marsanne, and Roussanne from him. I got Sangiovese from Marco Cappelli at Swanson. I got Pinot Noir material from Chalone. I got some Swan Pinot. I planted a number of Dijon clones of Pinot Noir with an intent to make those wines separately and evaluate them. That was a logistics problem, so it never happened. I just blend them together.’


"The Wine Write: ‘What makes the Chalone AVA special?’

"Michael: 'Several things. The exposure to the sun is a major factor. We’re up above fifteen hundred feet in elevation. The sun gets quite intense. Our soils are mostly granitic, but also have some limestone. The soils are loose, and they drain well. Our vines are the antithesis of the flat land Napa Valley vines that are growing in clay. Our soils tend to help concentrate the flavors. I think we are able to get closer here to what happens in Europe. The temperatures here can fluctuate more than sixty degrees from day to night. All those components help make us unique. We are a high desert region. Our annual rainfall average is less than ten inches. A few years ago, we only got five.

“‘There is a definite mineral-like characteristic to our wines. It’s a character of wet rock or crushed rock. It’s quite identifiable. As long as you don’t try to overextract these wines or get the fruit overripe, the wines come out really fabulous. They are also very long lived. The amount of tannins created, even in the white wines, is quite significant. That helps the wines age for quite a long time. Some of our white wines hold up well for over twenty years. The reds will go even longer.’”

250957_10150838753950770_161710039_n.jpg
"The Wine Write: ‘Are you looking for a particular style of wine or simply looking to express your vineyard?’

"Michael: ‘I want to show what the vineyard gives me. If you want to describe my style, it’s more European. I want to make well balanced wines that are not overly alcoholic. I don’t want to make flabby wines, but also don’t want them overly acidic.’


“…The Chalone AVA needs to be on your bucket list. While you are thinking about a trip, there is wine to get you better acquainted with the appellation. Michael’s wines are top shelf examples of Chalone terroir, available and fairly priced at michaudvineyard.com. Other top winemakers in the region source fruit from him or from Rodnick Farm and do vineyard designated bottles. Seek those out. Chalone Vineyard itself is hopeful for a return to glory. You can check on their progress by sampling a few bottles from their website…”.

Read the entire interview of Michael Michaud on The Wine Write website: Link



Michaud Vineyard website:

The Wine Write website:

Resources on Chalone AVA:

Michaud Vineyard website:

· “Michaud Vineyard Blocks and Clones” (PDF)

· “The Chalone Viticultural Area” (PDF)


TTB
American Viticultural Area Reading Room: “Chalone”
· Petition (PDF)

· Public Comments (PDF)]

Luke Sykora spoke with several Santa Cruz Mountains growers and winemakers in his December, 2021, Wine & Spirits article.

The author visited Mt Eden , Ridge Vineyards, Thomas Fogerty, and the “Bates Ranch”, discussing the effects of drought and climate change with some of the region’s best-known personalities.


Wine & Spirits
“American Beauty: Savory Ripeness in Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet”
by Luke Sykora
November 23, 2021

“…Even here, in California’s coolest major Cabernet region, climate change is posing new questions for growers and winemakers. (Spoiler alert: Yes, the Cabernet up in these hills is still great. But if you love the chiseled, maybe slightly masochistic beauty of a cool-vintage ‘Monte Bello’, those wines are probably going to be fewer and farther between.)”

2112-americanbeauty-batesranch-by-emma-morris.jpg


"…‘Bates Ranch’ is farther South than most other Cabernet vineyards in these mountains, at the base of Mount Madonna; the property is currently overseen by Charlie and Diane Bates. Since 2012, Santa Cruz Mountains grape guru Prudy Foxx has been their viticulturist.

"At ‘Bates’, Foxx farms a parcel of old-vine Cabernet Franc planted in 1972 as well as a number of Cabernet Sauvignon blocks planted in the past two decades. (Ashes & Diamonds sources some fruit from each of the parcels.) The changing climate likely contributes some of the open structure the vineyard displays, but Foxx also points to the new block of two French ENTAV clones she developed in 2014.

“‘They’re incredible,’ she says. ‘These big beautiful berries. They have enough room for very good juice in there. Deep berry flavors, classic cabernet flavors, great skin tannin, but also some real fruit character to it. Oftentimes our wines are thought of as having more olive and green-fruit character. And some people like that because it’s more of a Bordeaux style. But I think you can have that real fruit character and still be Santa Cruz Mountains in style.’

“A fan of the 2018 vintage, Foxx is also excited about the extraordinarily dry but fairly temperate 2021. ‘This year, the depth of the flavors and the balance—the flavonoids and the anthocyanins—had such a chance to evolve,’ she finds. ‘We have incredible flavors without super-high alcohols. The skins had a chance to grow in this very soft and supple way, without the harshness that a hot year brings. When I’m out there chewing the fruit, the skin is so thick, it just chews and chews and chews, almost like fruit leather, but rich—not dry at all’…”.

Wine & Spirits website:
https://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com/


Mt Eden Vineyards website:
https://www.mounteden.com/

Ridge Vineyards website: “Monte Bello Vyd
https://www.ridgewine.com/visit/monte-bello/

Thomas Fogerty website: “Lexington Vyd
https://www.lexingtonwines.com/vineyard/

Janaca Vineyards website: “Bates Ranch
https://www.batesranch.com/pages/our-ranch

Foxx Viticulture website:
https://foxxviticulture.com/

I came across this article on Cabernet Pfeffer today. Of course it concerns primarily San Benito Co. vineyards. An Overlooked, Historic California Grape Gets a New Life | Wine Enthusiast

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