Randy Smith of The Wine Write interviewed winemaker and grower Michael Michaud. He and his wife Carol operate the Michaud Vineyard, located at the northern end of Chalone AVA.
The Wine Write
“Celebrating The Chalone AVA With Michael Michaud”
by Randy Smith
January 30, 2022
"…Michael Michaud was with Chalone during its salad days in the Eighties and Nineties. During that time Chalone was synonymous with wines of elegance and balance. Those bottles spoke of the granitic and limestone soils and the high desert conditions where they were grown.
“…He left Chalone Vineyard in 1997 to focus on his own brand. Michaud Vineyard is a jewel in the Chalone AVA. Its focus on the region has remained steadfast over the past quarter of a century. Michael Michaud simply wishes more of the wine world better appreciated his appellation’s history and ongoing contributions to California wine.”
"…The Wine Write: ‘Tell me about deciding to go out on your own.’
"Michael: 'I always wanted to have something of my own. In 1984 I tried to plant five acres of own-rooted Chardonnay on my property. It didn’t do too well. I think I had stored the cuttings for too long. In 1986 and 1988 I planted again. I did five acres each year. I did about three acres in 1990. It was almost all own-rooted. The last part was planted on St. George rootstock. When I had a lot of water to use, the vines did pretty well. It’s a harsh environment here. It freezes in the winter and gets really hot during the summer. It doesn’t rain much, and these soils don’t hold a lot of water. The vines began to decline. I replaced a lot of them in 2015. I also planted some different varieties.
"'At one time I was selling my Chardonnay to Chalone. This was before I planted my Pinot Noir. At the point in time when the check for selling my grapes was larger than my paycheck at Chalone, my work relationship changed. I think they began to look at me as a competitor. They complained about the acreage I had under vine. I was working at Chalone five thousand hours a year at that point, but felt like I had to justify my existence…
“‘I started my own thing and went my own way. Looking back, I might have done better by working at Chalone a few years more while I established my brand. That paycheck would have been nice, but I stuck to my principles. That’s how that went.’”
"…The Wine Write: ‘What spurred you to plant different varieties?’
"Michael: 'What happens over time is that demand changes. At one time everyone wanted Chardonnay. Then there was too much Chardonnay. After people figured out how to grow Pinot Noir here and make wine, everyone wanted Pinot Noir. Then there was too much Pinot Noir. I changed what I was planting. I was interested in how other varieties would do here. I like to get plant material from vineyards that make wine I like. That eliminates some of the variables for me.
"‘I got cuttings from Jean-Louis Chave in the Northern Rhône. He actually worked a harvest for us one year at Chalone. I got Syrah, Marsanne, and Roussanne from him. I got Sangiovese from Marco Cappelli at Swanson. I got Pinot Noir material from Chalone. I got some Swan Pinot. I planted a number of Dijon clones of Pinot Noir with an intent to make those wines separately and evaluate them. That was a logistics problem, so it never happened. I just blend them together.’
"The Wine Write: ‘What makes the Chalone AVA special?’
"Michael: 'Several things. The exposure to the sun is a major factor. We’re up above fifteen hundred feet in elevation. The sun gets quite intense. Our soils are mostly granitic, but also have some limestone. The soils are loose, and they drain well. Our vines are the antithesis of the flat land Napa Valley vines that are growing in clay. Our soils tend to help concentrate the flavors. I think we are able to get closer here to what happens in Europe. The temperatures here can fluctuate more than sixty degrees from day to night. All those components help make us unique. We are a high desert region. Our annual rainfall average is less than ten inches. A few years ago, we only got five.
“‘There is a definite mineral-like characteristic to our wines. It’s a character of wet rock or crushed rock. It’s quite identifiable. As long as you don’t try to overextract these wines or get the fruit overripe, the wines come out really fabulous. They are also very long lived. The amount of tannins created, even in the white wines, is quite significant. That helps the wines age for quite a long time. Some of our white wines hold up well for over twenty years. The reds will go even longer.’”
"The Wine Write: ‘Are you looking for a particular style of wine or simply looking to express your vineyard?’
"Michael: ‘I want to show what the vineyard gives me. If you want to describe my style, it’s more European. I want to make well balanced wines that are not overly alcoholic. I don’t want to make flabby wines, but also don’t want them overly acidic.’
“…The Chalone AVA needs to be on your bucket list. While you are thinking about a trip, there is wine to get you better acquainted with the appellation. Michael’s wines are top shelf examples of Chalone terroir, available and fairly priced at michaudvineyard.com. Other top winemakers in the region source fruit from him or from Rodnick Farm and do vineyard designated bottles. Seek those out. Chalone Vineyard itself is hopeful for a return to glory. You can check on their progress by sampling a few bottles from their website…”.
Read the entire interview of Michael Michaud on The Wine Write website: Link
Michaud Vineyard website:
The Wine Write website:
Resources on Chalone AVA:
Michaud Vineyard website:
· “Michaud Vineyard Blocks and Clones” (PDF)
· “The Chalone Viticultural Area” (PDF)
TTB
American Viticultural Area Reading Room: “Chalone”· Petition (PDF)
· Public Comments (PDF)]
