And don’t sit down, you’ll fill up!
Keep moving is the mantra.
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Yeah but it’s got to be among the most memorable five pounds you’ve ever gained, right? At least, it was for me!
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We are going to Bilbao and Rioja in September and plan to do a short overnight detour to San Sebastian. Previous threads were pre pandemic. ANyone been there recently and can share favorite dining and accommodations. Thanks.
I was last there right before the pandemic. There’s the famous hotel that most people stay at…I forget the name. We opted to stay at the Lasala Plaza Hotel which was smaller, more boutique, and on the water. It was also a two minute walk to Ganbara and right on the edge of the old city. I absolutely loved this hotel.
Fwiw, I thought Bilbao was great if you want to go to the Guggenheim which is spectacular. But the city itself was meh, especially compared to San Sebastián.
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Maria Cristina. Which is very close to what I consider the best place for tortilla, Bar Antonio (sorry, Bar Nestor).
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The Maria Christina is now over $1600 a night.
My friends who are totally retired would never go for that.
We are doing a Duvine bike tour in Rioja and get picked up and dropped off in Bilbao. We will see the Guggenheim.
I was there recently. Akelare and Asador San Martin were both exceptional. The latter is in Orio so it’s a bit of a drive. Both have terrific views as well as food and service. Alameda and Astelena were both very good. The chef of the latter is pretty famous now because he has his own TV show.
My favorite meal in Rioja was the tasting menu at Ajonegro a Mexican Spanish fusion place in Logroño.
The michelin places are what they are…I’d just wander old town and eat pintxos and drink txakolina. Hard to beat.
And get your tortilla ordered in time at Bar Nestor.
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$1600? Glad I was able to stay for points there in the Starwood days.
Second the pintxos option especially to try old town classics and some more modern varieties.
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Asador Extebarri was an all time great meal, a bit of a drive but worth it!
Ibai - amazing (amazing, if they answer the phone to take a reservation that is)
Pinxto’s:
Paco Bueno
Borda Berri
Bar Haizea
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My husband and I were there last fall, and it was as amazing as everyone says it is. I hope you have the best time! Here were some of our favorite spots (along with some notes I collected from various publications/guidebooks):
Lodging
- Hotel Villa Favorita: one of our top favorite hotel stays to date – it is a 23-room townhouse converted into a hotel, which used to house one of the last remaining private mansions behind La Concha beach
Restaurants
- Narru Restaurant: probably our most favorite meal in SS; for years ensconced in a basement behind La Concha beach, Narru has long been a go-to for delicious food that dares to be simple, natural, subtle, and luxurious – now chef Iñigo Peña and his team have decamped to the new Hotel Arbaso, beside Buen Pastor Cathedral; but despite the move, Narru maintains its less-is-more philosophy, as quality ingredients are, as ever, the essence of Peña’s cooking
- Casa Urola: a must for San Sebastián gastronomy enthusiasts; Chef Pablo’s updated versions of traditional Basque dishes even persuade other local chefs to eat here after finishing their shifts; much of the exquisite menu changes seasonally; media ración (half-portion) available for several dishes; extensive wine list
- Rekondo: one of the few places open on Mondays, Rekondo is a fine traditional restaurant with a 222-page wine list; totally worth the hike from Old Town SS; plus the dessert we had was one of the most memorable ones I’ve had in recent memory
Pinxtos – be sure to check opening hours, as they tend to be sporadic both during the day and week!
- Taberna Gandarias: great place for savory traditional pintxos in a lively but easygoing atmosphere; consider a media ración (half-order) of perfectly done ibérico ham; they serve food more hours than most
- Txepetxa Taberna: best place for anchovies – these fish are fresh (not cured and salted like those most Americans hate)
- Borda Berri: “New Mountain Hut” features a more low-key ambiance and top quality pintxos; there are only a few items at the bar – check out the chalkboard menu for today’s options, order, and the two chefs will cook it fresh; specialties = melt-in-your-mouth beef cheeks (carrillera de ternera) in red wine sauce, risotto with wild mushrooms, foie gras (grilled goose liver) with apple jelly (best enjoyed pair with a glass of their bet red wine), Idiazabal (Basque cheese), risotto, cheeks
- La Viña: known for airy and decadent slice of cheesecake (where it was invented!) that’s big enough to share; reliable option for a mix of traditional and modern pintxos as well as Russian salad
- Ganbara: Ganbara, run with passion by Amaia Ortuzar and her family, is where San Sebastian’s gastro-aristocracy goes on its day off; also a pilgrimage site for lovers of wild mushrooms: the plate of fresh boletus a la plancha with a free-range egg yolk is a fast-track route to foodie ecstasy; known for sautéed seasonal mushrooms, crab tartlet, a stuffed croissant, or a sit-down lunch of roast hake or char-grilled txuleta; consider ordering a craft beer – Ganbara serves the deliciously hoppy amber ale Arraun from Hernani-based brewers Basqueland
- La Cuchara de San Telmo: we didn’t get to try this place because it kept being closed every time we went, so please try to make it happen! - cooks are taught by big-name Basque chef Alex Mondiel; cramped place that devotes as much space to its thriving kitchen as its bar; nothing is precooked and set on the bar – order your mini gourmet plates with a spirit of adventure from the constantly changing blackboard; their foie gras with apple jelly is rightfully famous (fresh grilled foie gras)
- El Tamboril: also didn’t make it here, but many friends recommended it too; traditional spot right on the main square, favored for its seafood, mushrooms (txampis tamboril), and anchovy tempura along with its good prices; list of hot pintxo (grab the little English menu on the bar) makes you want to break the one-tapa-per-spot rule; codfish croquettes or meat-stuffed peppers
Asador Etxebarri. .
1-hour drive from SS; only 30 minutes from Bilbao. My favorite restaurant experience in the region.
I had no idea Ibai reopened. This is great news. A different chef, but it sounds like he’s doing his best to keep things as they were.
I would add Antonio Bar for tapas, including their amazing tortilla.
I cannot recommend the new Ibai, which just reopened a couple of months ago, especially if you loved the old one.
La Cuchara de San Telmo has been closed for a number of months to repair after a fire, I believe. I don’t know when it will reopen.
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Well, that is a bummer, but thanks for sharing that. The original Ibai was one of the great restaurants, and I was really disappointed when it closed.
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In close-by Hondarribia I love the Arroka Berri and +1 for the Guggenheim in Bilbao
Any advantage to staying in Bilbao over San Sebastian?
Check out Gaintza txakolindegia winery. Asador Etxebarri is on my list. Churreria The Mañueta if you ever are close to Pamplona.
IMHO, no. The Guggenheim is stunning, but San Sebastián offers beach and food.
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@ToddFrench - can this be merged with the old San Sebastian thread (current as of Feb this year?): San Sebastian - Epicurean Exploits - Food and Recipes - WineBerserkers
Great info on both and would be nice to have a consolidated list.