The project of Carlos and Manel, two Catalonian chefs that do a seasonal tasting menu in San Sebastian. Their creativity, exuberance, and passion make Sa Taula (The Table) a dining experience like no other. It’s literally a party in their kitchen. This is not an ordinary menu as there are almost no hot dishes. Everything you eat is made in house, from the charcuterie to their garden that yields their produce, including the incredible tomato and onion on the menu. All of it paired with various natural Spanish wines.
Sa Taula is not easy to find. As more guests arrive looking confused, having walked in circles, we ask, “Sa Taula?” Yes! More guests assemble and we learn, the room is full not only of Americans, but Californians. In all, we are nine. Five from San Francisco and another couple from Los Angeles. Suddenly a door opens and a grinning Carlos invites us in. He loves to surprise.
As Gitanos de Alma fills the room, before you is a large wooden plank of various charcuterie. Manel is busy placing various ingredients in bowls. Carlos hands us a glass of Cosmic Pet Nat. Delicious. As we sit around the taula, Carlos welcomes us and explains the plan for the evening. Carlos is the MC tonight and Manel the DJ. The music covers a broad range of Spanish, Funk, and Ambient. We talk music and share names. Bowls and plates of various pickles, pates, and smears are placed. I wish I could remember all the various plates and bowls in front of me, but it’s not possible. The Spanish love to speak rapido and Carlos’s English is no exception. The charcuterie is exceptional, comprising various pig and cow parts. As I look up, Carlos asks, “Mencia?” Yes please. This turns out to be one of my favorite wines of the evening. It’s from Galicia but not Bierzo. Everyone is engaged in their own charcuterie world. As the board and plates are collected, Carlos says, “OK, let’s begin.” My girl looks at me with that ok but I’m almost full look.
Hopefully the pictures will paint the picture of the various dishes that followed. A small cup of pea soup with Spanish olive oil hiding a cube of lemon confit is served. I am poured a wonderful glass of natural Rioja. It’s is absolutely delicious. Soft yet firm and clearly Rioja. Bonito loin with hazelnut sauce is utterly fantastic. There were other surprising elements to the meal. Puree of cauliflower hiding a dollop of salted caramel. Onion sous vide then torched with macadamia nut sauce. Tomato with coffee sauce. Chiporones in sepia with hazelnut sauce. Cured peach with roasted piquillo pepper. A lettuce granite with tomato water and roe. It was all so delightful. There was more wine. A Grenache Blanc and a Chenin Blanc/Macabeo blend. Carlos and I talked wine all evening. He’s a strong advocate of natural wine and really knows his stuff. He introduced us to a wide variety, all of it, save for one, was delicious. At the end, he said, “I’d like you to try this sparkling Xarel-lo, but it’s not Cava. It’s from Asturias.” it was a nice ending to what was easily a most cerebral dinner and festive evening. Go before the price triples.
