#rieslingstudy - 2006 Keller G-Max and 2010 FX Pichler Unendlich

WINE TALK
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Two spectacular rieslings that provided one of my all time greatest food and wine experiences*. Opened these bottles for a special occasion at Masa.

We opted to start with the 2010 FX Pichler Unendlich because I assumed it would be the the lighter of the two due to age and vintage. This turned out to be correct. 2010 was a high acid year in the Wachau and I think this was around the time when Lucas started dialing back the wines slightly. Well this was a stunning wine and one of the best Unendlichs I have ever had. It had everything - white peach, apricots, acid, minerality, energy, tension and a flavor I can only describe as THE Wachau. A pairing with an early sashimi course that was a heavy on acid and lime was magically harmonious. And the finish on this wine is truly never ending…

The 2006 Keller G-MAX was a wonderful counterpoint to the Unendlich. Both were opulent big wines that still had grace. The G-MAX had an overall profile that reminded me of a Coche Corton Charlemagne from a hot year with Botrytis with a decent amount of age. The G-MAX had much more base and weight. The flavors were just as exotic as the Unendlich but different. The weight of the wine proved a better pairing for certain dishes including the Wagu / Truffle supplement. The wine has benefited from age and this showed far better than I thought it would given the challenges of the vintage. A true triumph for Klaus Peter Keller.


*This night made me think of how frustrating it is that so many restaurants have moved to 100% natural wine lists and refuse to put Austrian and German wines that pair so wonderfully with food.

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Interesting notes Robert. I walked away from Pichler because the wines were too big for my taste. Sounds like it’s worth revisiting.

Your comment about natural wine lists sounds like a big city problem. Out in the sticks the German and Austrian wines were never on the lists to begin with. It has always been about Cabernet and Chardonnay.

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I also need to spend more time with some recent FXP releases. Based on a few data points and what I have read Lucas dialed the wines back and I believe took some heat for this from certain critics.

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Rarer than hen’s teeth. I have been trying to buy the G-max for years and I can’t find it. Even Keller himself wouldn’t get me a bottle when he was in NY. Winesearcher shows zero bottles of the Unendlich for sale in the US. Where did you get these?

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I have been buying both for many years and have a few sources. These bottles were mostly likely purchased at Crush. The G-Max is now bundled with a case. I will definitely open both for you at a Jets-Bills playoff tailgate.

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*This night made me think of how frustrating it is that so many restaurants have moved to 100% natural wine lists and refuse to put Austrian and German wines that pair so wonderfully with food.

i 100% expected to see this somewhere in your post robert
and i totally agree

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Plenty of ‘natural’ German wines. Some of them are decent. :slight_smile:

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2016 FX Pichler Riesling Unendlich – Crush Wine & Spirits [whistle.gif]

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I have never had a no SO2 Riesling that I have liked.

I know of most of the German Natural winemakers:

2naturkinder
Brand Brothers
Enderle and Moll
Trossen
Vater & Son
Durst
Roterfaden
Ulli Stein (makes a few no SO2 wines)

Who else am I missing?

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I’ll need to make a road trip for that tailgate :wink:

Adore the 2010 vintage out there—a recent Prager Achleiten Ries has been stunning both this year and last.

Mike

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Well, does natural have to mean no SO2?

The Berlin natural crowd often like Clemens Busch, Melshiemer, Odinstal, Von Buhl and a few others.

Though the only one of this whole list in my cellar is Trossen.

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For me the dividing line for a certain type of Natural wine is no sulpher. Of those in your list I love Clemens Busch and drink them frequently. Over here he is almost in the Natural camp. He also does a very low SO2 wine.

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Thanks for the notes, Robert. We don’t have 2006 G-max but do have 05, so great to have a data point of a similar age, albeit a very different vintage.

My very first Unendlich was with you at the original Ko!

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I’ll settle for one at a regular season game and I might even throw in a free ticket. How does Riesling go with buffalo meat?

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I’ve opened some '09, '10s, and '11s recently, and I am still set on not buying any more for the same reason as David. Every time I open one, I wish I had bought Alzinger instead.

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I am a big fan of Alzinger. I will have to try some recent Pichlers to see where I come out.

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smart smart. Never have to open it then. [snort.gif]

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Ditto. Although I wish I had bought Alzinger, Prager, Nigl, Nikolaihoff or Brundlmayer instead. I always like FX Pichler but I never love it.

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[rofl.gif]

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At least someone got the joke! ALTHOUGH it has happened before. AND Jay knows I would open these for him any time.

I am sure Jay was at this game.