I am interested in your opinions about which white burgundy wines (including Chablis wines) are the most “reductive” or “mineral” in nature? I have tried and loved the 2019 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Charmes 1er Cru for its minerality. It seemed to have flint or a stoniness or chordite on the nose and palate. I love this type of wine, and I am looking to source more like it.
Welcome to Berserkers George!
I can’t help you with you question about white Burgundy, but I am curious about your using “reductive” and “mineral” almost as if they are synonyms. I can think of many whites (including Chablis, Chenin Blanc, and many Italian whites) that will show a high degree of mineral character while not being overtly reductive in nature.
matchstick aromas?
It is possible OP just means he is looking for white Burgundy producers who don’t have a strong oxidative character to their wines but are also more mineral than fruit in profile.
Thank you, Chris! I am relatively new to wine collecting. I started collecting in May 2020, so on many topics, I do not know even how to ask the question! You will have to pardon my ignorance on this one. I confused reductive with minerality and thought they were the same. I think I really like the “matchstick” or “flinty” aroma and taste. I also like the minerality component. I am only looking to see what others are like the 2019 PYCM and have those characteristics. Thanks for helping me to understand the difference. I am going to research this more because I did not realize that one is a function of the terroir and one is a function of the winemaking technique.
Yes, definitely the matchstick aromas and the flint. Any other producers in Burgundy who make chardonnay based white burgundy would be interesting to me.
That is a good interpretation of what I am looking for. I like fruit, but I have had a bottle of 2002 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet Gran Cru, and it was severely oxidized. It was like a caramel apple. I would say, based on all of the responses, I am looking for matchstick aromas and wines that are more mineral than fruit. The 2019 PYCM Meursault Charmes was just like that.
Not Burgundy, but a producer who makes that style of Chardonnay (and the wines are very good and good value) is Walter Scott from Oregon. Reduction and minerality both.
Oh wow! I live in Oregon! That should not be too hard to place! Thank you very much for this!
Good for you digging right in. The above is my understanding, but reduction is a very complicated subject and every time I think I understand it, I get reschooled. As Chris pointed out, Oregon has some great producers making reductive Chardonnay. In addition to Walter Scott, Berserkers @Marcus_Goodfellow and @Will_Hamilton (Violin Cellars) also make excellent wines in that style. Marcus and Will are also great visits since you live in state.
Also, you don’t have to start at the top of their portfolio, their lower and medium priced chardonnays are very good and show that style too. It would be easy and fun to experiment.
Thank you so much! This is really helpful. Wine is such a complicated topic. I geek out on it because it seems there is an endless amount to learn. My wife and I are actually taking a break from wine (and less than healthy food) at the moment, to lose weight and feel better. However, I still spend a ton of time researching and buying. It is truly an very enjoyable endeavor!!!
Thanks again, Chris!!! I just found two very highly rated 2019 Chards from Walter Scott on WineBid. Cannot wait to give them a try!!! I really appreciate your help with this.
Then you have definitely come to the right place!
PYCM is a wonderful producer, and reliably delivers flinty, chiseled, chalky and mineral laden whites.
Other producers that offer a similar style:
Lafon
Roulot
Leflaive
Coche
You can easily find the Walter Scott la Combe Verte Chardonnay for mid $30s off the shelf. Note the comments in CT, they definitely seem to track what you’re looking for.
A question that George’s post prompts – if you desire more flinty reduction, should you drink the wines on the younger side? I think that diminishes with age, but I’m not sure how much and with how much age. I like that trait, too, though it’s like salt, you can have too much, too little, or the right amount.
I would add Hubert Lamy to your list. The Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is a great value, but all the wines are stellar. PYCM also makes an En Remilly which could make for a fun tasting.
Dauvissat is another one from Chablis that is reductive and very mineral driven. Tastes like licking limestone. The La Forest is the best value in the range. I find Sechet to be the most reductive. Both the Grand Crus (Les Clos and Prueses) are also stunners.
For some of the best value white wines in a reductive style I would look at the Domaine de Montille whites. The Meursault St. Christophe is very reasonably priced. The Puligny 1er Crus Cailleret (probably their best white 1er cru) and Folatieres are both awesome. They make a great Meursault Perrieres and their standout is the Chevalier-Montrachet although you are getting a bit pricey at that point.
Joseph Colin. Start with the 2020 Saint-Aubin Compendium.
My note:
First bottle of Joseph Colin I tried! I’ve got the whole lineup in 2020 and I was waiting to try one. Holy reduction Batman! My somm buddy thought this was faulty but a buddy and I don’t agree. That being said this is just crushed stones, saline breeze and limestone extract! The citrus fruits are barely peeking out. Rock juice. Too much sulfites?
I’m with you Chris, the wines will typically show less match-stick as they age. Though I also really enjoy the reductive aromas of older Chardonnays made in a reductive style as well, they relarely seem to hold the same flinty quality.
For Burgundy, Coche and Roulot are two good choices.
For Oregon, in addition to the previously mentioned wines I would add the 2021 Morgen Long wines and Martin Woods Koosah vineyard bottling.
Thank you, Larry! I have definitely invested in some Leflaive and just a tiny amount of Coche (due to the crazy price tag), but I have not gotten into Lafon or Roulot. I will look into those. I really appreciate your advice on this!