The 23rd edition of Rednecks and Rhônes was held 4-22 thru 4-24 in Greensboro, NC.
I survived; here’s proof:
Whites:
2019 Birichino, Chardonnay Peter Martin Ray Vnyd. - oaky, sour and sort of funky on the finish. I imagine this is pretty good fruit but this wine gives no evidence of that. And it’s pricey. Nope.
2000 Lorentz, Pinot Gris Reserve - pretty sweet and fine with duck pate but nothing I want more of.
2012 Qupe, Rousanne - sour, angular and unpleasant. Maybe it got better with time open but I did not revisit.
2015 Chateau de Vaudieu, Rousanne CdP - quite good and opened over the evening to show layers and complexity.
1998 Chave, Hermitage Blanc - oxidized but actually improved in the mouth over the evening; the nose was always sherried.
2001 Klipfel, Pinot Gris Kirchberg de Barr - beautiful fruit, juicy, good acidity, great persistence; a terrific wine at peak.
2018 Louis Michel, Chablis Sechet - expressive, clean, beautiful Chardonnay without wood, artifice or gimmick. Just lovely.
2008 Billecart-Salmon, Champagne Brut (mag.) - lovely, just lovely
2019 Nortico, Alvarinho (mag.) - pure, clean and balanced but uneventful
2012 F. X. Pichler, Riesling Smaragd, Dursteiner Kellerberg - more please; really fine, deep and carrying the essence of spring water in its veins. Yum!
2013 Knoll, Gruner Veltliner Vinothekefullung - a step above even the Pichler (which is saying something); god wine!
2015 Dom. du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc - pleasant but forgettable
2020 Clos St. Jean CdP Blanc - quite pleasant but forgettable
2019 Niero, Condrieu Heritage - no fan of viognier am I but this is exceptional, firm, has cut, beautiful fruit and that special something that makes it clear it’s the real thing. Outstanding wine.
2015 & 2017 Vernay Condrieu - nice but not on the same planet as the Niero.
2014 SQN, Lightmotif - I didn’t spit it out but I didn’t have anymore
N/V Gysler, Sparkling Riesling - pretty, tasty and totally without finish; not what you expect but it has its place
1995 d’Yquem - good but not great; still fine with liver pâté
2020 Francois Villard, Viognier Les Contours de Deponcins - vivid acidity drives this focused and tasty bottle. Not a grape I usually care for but this makes me rethink.
2000 Pride, Viognier - pleasant but, after the Villard, wanting.
1998 Chat. d’Orschwihr, Riesling Rangen - darker color than expected and a certain heaviness but still alive and of interest
1999 Chapoutier, Ermitage De L’oree - others liked it but, for me, this producer often under-performs and this was just one more example of that notion
2016 SQN, Deux Grenouilles - a sip or two was all I could do
1999 Chapoutier, Vin de Paille - I am told by those who enjoy sweet wines that this was excellent - not for me
2019 F. X. Pichler, Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg - beautiful, refreshing, vibrant and balanced; joyful stuff
2006 Raveneau, Foret - some wines are just better than others; breathtaking juice; clarity, verve and an unshakable core. Grand Vin!
Pinks:
2020 La Bastide Blanche, Bandol Rose - lovely, crisp, lightweight, savory rose. Delightful.
2020 Gonnet, Tavel Rose - more weight and sweet than the above; pleasant but not on a par with the Bandol.
2017 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly - unless your spending big bucks for Tempier, rose doesn’t get better.
2018 Triennes, Rose - a touch sour but otherwise nice.
2020 Los Arratos, Rosato - darker and bigger than the rose I usually like but pretty.
2007 Tempier, Rose - I am amazed that, at 15, this is still is as charming and lovely as it is - what a treat!
Reds:
2010 Paloma, Merlot - about as good as new world Merlot gets. Expansive in the mouth, beautiful fruit, no overt oak and good length. Fully resolved and a pleasure to drink.
2010 Pride, Claret - not the mess I expected but one glass is enough. A dozen years made little difference.
2019 Three Sticks, Pinot Noir Walala Vnyd. - too much wood for my tastes but good fruit and well made. Not my style but excellent Pinot.
2019 Vincent, Gamay Bjornson Vnyd. - deep and dark - Brouilly-esque - but with more fruit and acidic bite. Reminds me a little of the Prophery bottling by ESJ; the same firmness that cries out for aging. Probably needs a decade - won’t get it - I’m just not that patient.
2017 Edmunds St. John, El Jaleo - Tempranillo blend that stays on the lighter side of the grape/blend. And even with pasta that had asparagus in it, this wine showed well. A pretty, balanced albeit different red that pairs well with food.
2015 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - dark fruit goodness with balance and finesse. Could use a decade or more but shows well whenever opened.
My overachieving “son.”
2020 Extradimensional Wine Co. , Mourvèdre Evangelho Vnyd. - such a lovely, lightweight but lively wine; great counter-point to many of the heavier reds. Great showing.
2005 Robert Michel, Cornas La Gaynale - superb, nuanced, constantly morphing in the glass; bacon, earth, red and dark fruits, lift, sustain; sensational.
2009 Domaine Courbis, Cornas Champelrose - tannic, very young but with intensity and some complexity. Gave the impression of good things to come but, you never know.
2014 Piedrassasi, Red Wine Harrison-Clarke Vnyd. - 50/50 Syrah and Mourvèdre; meaty, gamey, complete and sort of polished. Good stuff.
2001 Paloma, Syrah - round, expansive and delicious but without varietal character. Good but odd.
1991 Chave, Hermitage Rouge - mercaptins and volatility on the nose, better in the mouth but not it’s best showing.
2009 Allemand, Cornas Reynard - a lovely, expressive wine but a little lightweight and thin. Good, not great.
2003 Duboeuf, Moulin a Vent - a bit thin but still here. Okay.
2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde - non-descript but not without interest. Enjoyable but one wonders what would happen to this fruit in other hands.
1996 Harlan, Cabernet Sauvignon - oaky, simple, sweet and forgettable.
2015 Dom. Billon Christophe, Cote Rotis Rozier - very young and tight but fine tannins and excellent concentration; good future.
2007 Clarendon Hills, Grenache Romas - bordering on pancake syrup but not without charm.
2011 SQN, Patine Grenache - tolerable but barely
1996 Torii Mor, Pinot Noir White Rose Vnyd. - pretty but past peak
1995 Guigal, Hermitage - sort of ho hum, middle of the road Syrah without flaw or character
1998 Araujo, Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vnyd. - distinguishable as Eisele but not as Cabernet . . . how weird is that?
2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vnyd, - the first bottle I’ve had that was resolved, and beautifully so. Complex, smooth, light grip and extended finish. Stands out in good company, surprises with little things and cleans up after itself . . . it’s about breeding.
2005 Puffeney, Arbois (mag.) - never got where it was going but tasted pretty good throughout the evening.
2007 Il Bosco, Syrah - polished, buffed and clean but without soul
2004 Cos ‘d Estournel - St. Estephe on steroids; not “bad” but not for now
1998 Michel-Schlumberger, Cabernet Sauvignon (mag.) - the best Bordeaux at the party even though it’s from Dry Creek. Terrific wine.
2009 Clarendon Hills, Cabernet Sauvignon - when you go to your new neighbor’s house for dinner and they serve this because it’s their favorite you smile and drink a lot of water in between occasional sips. And change the subject - often.
2009 Cayuse, Syrah Armada Vnyd. - has complexity and good fruit but lacks soul or personality or something
2015 Ferraton, Cornas Les Eygats - okay but not much going on
2019 Meskhuri, Wild Grapes Vintage - obscure grapes from 200-400 year old vines in the country of Georgia; light and grippy (reminds me of Poulsard). A delight to try.
2017 Kusuda, Syrah - from New Zealand and utterly captivating. Lighter in weight, intense and extraordinarily complex - morphing minute by minute - beautiful palate presence and sustain. Memorable!
1991 DeLoach, Cabernet Sauvignon (mag.) - pretty good but not identifiable to the vintage
2005 Standish, The Standish Shiraz - no thanks
1963 Taylor’s, Port - good in small amounts
1998 Raymond Usseglio, CdP - a touch tired but of its place
2009 Pierre Usseglio, CdP - pretty wine with soulful fruit; nice
2010 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - took an hour to open in a decanter and then kept good company with most of the northern Rhônes (notes on those to follow)
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Syrah Brosseau Vnyd. - a lighter, more red fruit driven example of Syrah; not as “serious” as the others but charming and a relief when the tannins piled up.
2000 Pegau, CdP - stinky and, although widely liked by others, not my kind of wine. A second bottle was opened but it performed the same.
2018 Clos Saint Jean, CdP Deus Ex Machina - sensational; juicy, lifted fruit, silky texture, perfect balance - a wine to sit with and concentrate on. Superb!
2011 Cuchet-Bellando, Cornas - clearly of its place but ponderous; got better over an evening but never lost that darkness
2005 Clusel-Roch, Cote Rotie - soft fruit notes and understated but charming nonetheless.
2005 Bonneford, Cote Rotie - more angular and harder edged than the preceding wine but still good
2001 Ogier, Cote Rotie - Rockin’ right out of the gate and stayed strong the whole evening. The thunderbird award.
1999 Ganglof, Cote Rotie La Barbarine - a bit tired and never really hit its stride
2006 Jamet, Cote Rotie - excellent but not great (which surprised me; these are always so special)
1996 Jamet, Cote Rotie - closed most of the night
1995 and 1996 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle - the ‘95 was youthful, generous and delicious; the ‘96, not so much
1969 Luigi Enaudi, Barolo - a shadow of its former self; thin but trying
2019 and 2018 Chat. de Beaucastel, CdP - clean, of their place and very good but the absence of any secondary development gives evidence that we opened these too soon
2001 Les Cailloux, CdP - starting to fall apart; not pleasant
2010 La Vieille Julienne, CdP Reserve - excellent bottle; deeply fruited, good complexity and superb balance; a pleasure to drink
2013 Chevalier, Crozes-Hermitage - soft and forgettable
1998 Chave, Hermitage - speaking in a lower register than it usually does but still saying all the right things. Lovely wine
1999 Pride, Cabernet Sauvignon - the wood never integrated in this wine; like sucking on an oak tree
2015 SQN, Grenache Le Chemin vers l’Heresie - grape flavored pancake syrup
Best, Jim
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