You all have been great in the past when I asked about Crete, Loire, and Priorat, so here we go…
So my wife and I are heading to Italy in one month, and spending about three full days in the Piedmont area. We are staying in Verduno, a town close to Alba. I am looking for some help as I have been tasked with this portion of the trip.
Does anyone have reco’s for either great wineries to taste at, or perhaps a must visit restaurant for dinner in the area? I have a Somm friend who has suggested the following wineries- Bruno Giacosa, Oddero, Roberto Conterno, and Capellano. Another wine friend has suggested a visit to the Produttori Del Barbaresco cooperative.
Any input or advice is appreciated, thanks in advance. (also, open to ideas for wine bars, restaurants in Milan, Cinque Terre, and Lake Como)
I was in Verduno with some friends for a visit to Burlotto a few years ago, and after our meeting, Fabio recommended Trattoria dai Bercau, which is within walking distance of the winery. I wouldn’t call it a must-visit, but it was a solid option for traditional food and a good wine list. (The visit to Burlotto was excellent.)
we go to milan often. we have been staying at senato hotel milano and would recommend it.
our favorites:
rovello 18
trippa (though haven’t been in several years…start with aperitivo at mom cafe nearby)
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone (outside in their courtyard at lunch)
For a winery go to Castello di Verduno. You can also visit Oddero and Marcarini in La Morra. I don’t know if your somm friend can arrange a visit, but Cappellano is tough to get into these days, I believe.
For restaurants, definitely go to La Cantina Vineria Con Cucina. It’s listed as in La Morra, but closer to Verduno. L’Osteria del Vignaiolo in La Morra is also excellent.
The Ca’ del Re in Verduno is excellent. Relatively informal, very good food, same family as the Castello di Verduno. Rooms too, I think. It’s a few hundred yards away from the Castello.
General tip for finding good places to eat in Italy: the Slow Food movement has an app that only recommends places they like, I’ve found it very reliable, it’s called Osterie d’Italia.
Recounted a few days in Piemonte in the travel forum last year. Maybe some recs here you will find helpful. Fratelli Alessandria in Verduno was a great stop.
I haven’t tried in a long time, but I doubt you could get in at Bruno Giacosa. Capellano might be difficult, too.
I would recommend a visit to Vajra high up in a hamlet near the village of Barolo at the western edge of the Barolo zone. Their full line, including their Baudana Barolos from the other end of the DOCG in Serralunga, are first rate, including an excellent dry riesling.
There are so many good producers these days that you shouldn’t feel cheated if you can’t get into the most famous wineries. I’ve had memorable visits --and wines – at many cantine, including several excellent producers that Oliver represents:
One tip based on experience: Though things look close on the map, it can take time to get from one village to another because you often have to go via an indirect route, sometimes to the valley and back up. Also, the wineries tend to be generous with their time, so don’t expect to nip in and out in half an hour.
Thank you to all who have replied- I have quite the ‘homework’ ahead of me the next several days.
As for some wineries that may be tough to get into, my friend is a Master Somm so hopefully by including his name in the email it might open up a door or two.
Given your short amount of time, I’d say to mostly stick to wineries in and around Verduno/La Morra with some Barolo and Castiglione Falletto mixed in. Granted, Monforte and Serralunga aren’t that far, but this is country driving where it can take 20 minutes to go what is 6km as the crow flies.
I’m in Piedmont right now and can say the approach is much different than it was when I was here in 16. Wineries you may want to go to now are much more limited when they take visitors and many places are charging. You still get your money’s worth, but they are now catching up to the western hemisphere.
Come up with a list of wineries you want to visit and start emailing them now. You’ll also want to prioritize where you’ll want to dine and lock those revelations in.
We spent a week in Alba two years ago and I would highlight the following. For wine, GD Vajra where our tour was given by one of the daughters and both the tour and the wine were wonderful. We have a fantastic lunch at the following in Verduno/La Morraat La Cantina - Vineria Con Cucina Localita Cantina di Rivalta, 28 12060 Verduno and also enjoyed lunch at L’Osteria del Vignaiolo. Fantastic area to visit for both the wine and the food.
If you want to visit Conterno, email them in advance with the days you are available. They hold appointments for out of country visitors, so if he’s around, it’s quite possible you can get in. But they won’t confirm until the week of.
It was 2016, but I too had an excellent dinner at L’Osteria del Vignaiolo, which was recommended by Pietro Oddero, whose family winery is nearby. It’s in the tiny village of Santa Maria, near Verduno at the bottom of the La Morra hill.
It was the most interesting meal during a week-long stay in the Langhe.
