Recommendations for Montalcino

WINE TALK
1

i am going to tuscany for two weeks in september, one week staying close to montalcino. I am looking for some advice on which brunello producers to visit, who offer tastings and tours of the winery. Not Banfi. So far i have noted down Poggio Antico and Il poggione.

Also looking for advice on any good enoteca in Montalcino so sample more brunello at once [cheers.gif] and any decent/good places to eat lunch or dinner.

Thanks in advance [thankyou.gif]

2

Le Ragnaie and Colleoni, nice little gems very well worth a visit. You can actually stay at Ragnaie if you want, its also where I stay when in the region. Superb rooms at very fair prices.

As far as it concerns the big names: Soldera, Cerbaiona, Salvioni would be my picks.

For lunch: just outside of Montalcino is Il Leccio… very very good.

3

Fattoria dei Barbi
They claim to be the second oldest Brunello estate. They give a tour including their VERY old cellars. They also have an excellent restaurant on-site that offers local fare.

Altesino
They always gave a nice tour although the estate has changed hands since my last visit.

Pertimali
A great visit with a small producer. Not sure if they make appointments directly. I knew a retailer who asked his wholesaler to set-up the visit. It might still work if you have a good relationship with a retailer.

La Fortezza
In Montalcino. It is well preserved and has been converted into a wine bar. They offer wine-by-the-glass from most of the local producers. It was expensive. In addition to wine they offer local bread, cheese, pork products (eg. proscuitto) which they will prepare for you to be eaten on-site or taken.

Sant’Antimo Abbey
Not wine related … just outside Montalcino is the Sant’Antimo Abbey. It is quite old (perhaps 13th Century) but still intact and managed by Monks who chant at all the times that Monks are supposed to (eg. Sunrise, Sunset etc…). It’s in the middle of a field and surrounded by vineyards.
Not a bad place for a picnic. Last time there it had become a bit more commercial (they were selling a CD) but it’s not far and can be enjoyable.

Pat

4

I’ll 2nd these recommendations…especially Barbi and Sant’Antimo Abbey.
As for dining:

Poggio Antico outside of Montalcino
La Chiusa in Montefollonico.A must visit!

5

Poggio Di Sotto looks to have amazing views from it’s lovely rock terrace and the 04 I drank a yr ago was amazing stuff since you like classically styled Brunello like myself. Pics of the winery look like art.

You may need to click through soem pages to see the estate but the pic looks amazing. Not been but I love the wines! http://www.collemassari.it/en/the-estate-montalcino.html

6

Thanks! Added poggio di sotto to my list. There is not a lot of info on the website regarding visits, but the consorzio website mentions they allow it so i will try and book a visit

7

Pat, thanks i checked out Barbi and they seem to run good tours and the tasting is almost free. Not too common these days [cheers.gif] the restaurant looks nice as well so will probably do a morning tour and lunch at the estate. Have only tried their Rosso which i picked up last year in italy, they are not so common where i am so a good chance to sample their other bottlings!

8

Thanks… Do you know if Soldera offers tours or tastings at the estate, for “common” tourists like myself? If they do, that is a no brainer visit and i will make it my top priority! I assumed they didnt

9

Mattias, assume you’ve had your nose in Kerin Okeef’s book? An interesting read on Brunello and its producers. I bought Costanti because of it. Wonder if there is any way of getting into see the Biondi Santi estate? The old man died recently so it may start to lose it’s top spot among old school producers since his son is a modernist. I’d still try to see it though.

http://www.amazon.com/Brunello-Montalcino-Understanding-Appreciating-Greatest/dp/0520265645

10

I would also recommend La Chiusa in Montefollonico (I hope Massimo is still there), Enoteca La Fortezza in Montalcino, and a short side trip to Sant’Antimo Abbey.
I would add trattoria Latte di Luna and Ristorante Il Rossellino in Pienza.

11

I would also recommend Enoteca La Fortezza there in town. It’s a good place to try a bunch of different wines.

As for wineries, I remember liking Poggio Antico. We also went to Valdicava, which was very cool. I don’t believe they are open to the public, but we were able to find the phone number via the web, called them up and were able to set up an appointment. They didn’t have a tasting room, but we toured the vineyards and were able to taste a number of barrel samples.

12

Thanks guys… [cheers.gif] . Seems like fortezza is definetely worth a visit to sample different brunello’s. Love the italian enoteca’s, last year visited one in Greve which offered more than 100 wines on glass, and another in Bolgheri which was also very nice. Would absolutely adore visiting Valdicava so will probably try and set that up as well.

Has anybody visited Col d’orcia? they also seem to have an impressive estate and are generous towards visitors

13

Honestly, Poggio Antico is, both in terms of the property and the experience, very much like visiting a winery in Napa Valley. Which isn’t to say it’s bad, but it’s a shiny, modern place, where a tour guide employee will show you around, and with a tasting bar and wines for sale. Not total goofball Disneyland like Castello Banfi, but definitely a more American than Italian feel to the place.

I would probably recommend it to “civilians” looking for a pleasant visit in familiar type of circumstances, but I would mildly discourage a wine adventurer from putting it high on the list.

If you want some small, more traditional and very rustic places that make some of the best wine in Montalcino, I would strongly suggest visiting Lisini and Uccelliera. Fuligni was good as well.

Going into the Chianti region, we had a terrific visit at Castello della Paneretta. In a 1,000 year old fortress property, where they have been making wine for over 400 years, with underground cellars that look like something from Game of Thrones, and a great lineup of wines. Very friendly and accommodating, as well.

Have a great trip. Make sure to be a pro at GPS; these are some very challenging (in a fun way) places to find. Allow a lot more time to get to places than you think from looking at a map.

14

Mattias, I visited Col d’Orcia last year and had a really memorable visit. The Count Francesco who owns the estate was a regular contributor where Antonio G used to write and a visit is recommended. This is a large estate but we experienced great warmth and Francesco was a fantastic host. I second Soldera, Salvioni, Poggio di Sotto, Ragnaie and if you can get a visit with Molinari you should

Enjoy

///Martin

15

A few dining comments from a few years back:

Montalcino – Taverna del Grappolo Blu – This was one of our favorites from our previous visit to Montalcino in 2005 and it did not disappoint. We enjoyed both lunch and dinner here. Friendly service; wonderful, fresh pastas (pinci and porcinis to make you sigh), very good contorno like ceci (chick peas), and a fine local wine list. We still highly recommend dining with Luciano in his small and rustic kingdom when in Montalcino. Enjoyed a 2005 Il Poggioni Brunello with lunch and 2005 Lisini Brunello with dinner.

Montalcino – Rei di Macchia - Our new favorite place to eat in Montalcino. At the suggestion of our local host, we enjoyed two fantastic dinners. Pastas even better than Grappolo Blu, and terrific meat dishes such as “Chingiale Goulash,” a wonderfully seasoned wild boar stew, and easily the finest Bistecca alla Fiorentina I ever have had. Great local wine list. Antonio and Roberta run a great place, and we would definitely return. Over a few dinners enjoyed 2005 Camigliano, Campogiovanni, and Mastrojanni Brunellos.

Montalcino - Pizza San Giorgio - Pleasant place for lunch with a lengthy menu and a great smelling wood fired atmosphere. Pizzas were good, but locals turn up their noses at this “Albanian pizza place” We enjoyed our lunch there, but see no reason to return.

Montalcino – Enoteca Osteria Osticci – Suggested by a nearby winery owner friend, we were not impressed. It seems to thrive on its back room’s amazing view; the service is not particularly friendly and the food is adequate. But, in this part of the world, you deserve and can readily find better. No need to return.

Loved our visits at Canalicchio di Sopra and Poggio di Sotto.

Not sure if you need a place to stay, but we love staying with Lucilla and Roberto at their Palazzina Cesira.

You should take the advice given several times above and not miss the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, which you will pass on the way from Montalcino to Poggio di Sotto.

Enjoy,
Andrew

16

Agreed,but I recommend it for an evening meal.

17

Yeah, not much to add here. Castello Banfi is the only one w/ a walk in sort of tasting room. Every where else will require an advance appt. just to be certain there’s someone “home”. If not mentioned already, I’d try Stella di Campalto, Il Palazzone, and Casanova di Neri.

18

Hi all,

I’ll be staying with my significant other in Perugia for a week this coming July. Any tips for wineries / places for eating which are recommended? I have absolutely no idea whatsoever on where to start, given that wine knowledge is mostly limited to French wines. I believe we have a kitchenette at our disposal, so it could be intesteristing to visit some “cavistes” in the region, but is this concept known at all in Italy?

Any tips are more than welcome!

19

Thanks guys for all the great advice! [dance-clap.gif]

20

I had very nice visits last year at Uccelliera, Casanova di Neri and Ciacci and would recommend any or all of those. Uccelliera is a little tough to find, but it’s just down the road from Ciacci and the Abbey.

Enoteca La Fortezza provides an opportunity to try a lot of different wines, but it is expensive, so be prepared.