Here’s a more thorough article on the pros and cons and the other wine producers who offer(ed) the service from the WS in 2005.
Some of the Bordeaux properties topped up with the same vintage if there were enough bottles to be reconditioned to justify opening an old bottle. Some recorked their own stocks.
The problems came when the chateaux were asked to “recondition” bottles held by others. They were understandably reluctant to recork and certify bottles that were in poor condition or which were fake. Not surprisingly, the owners weren’t happy when the chateau (e.g., Lafite) stripped off the labels or dumped the wine.
I guess the only way to know if the result is ‘better’ or not would be to have ‘reconditioned’ wine side by side after a few years with similar vintages that have not been reconditioned. One would certainly be able to tell the difference, no?
My guess is that it would actually be quite difficult to tell the difference, especially if the added wine is only a few mL’s. And putting a newer, TCA-free cork on is never a bad thing, is it?
The choice between (a) “freshening up” an old bottle with poor ullage that may be tired and is vulnerable to further oxidation and (b) a keeping a “pure” old wine really is a matter of preference, I think. There’s no right or wrong.
The bottle variation with these really old wines is so great that a simple one-on-one comparison wouldn’t prove anything. But I suspect that people in the trade who have tasted a lot of old bottles, reconditioned and not, can tell you whether there’s a difference.