I can’t remember who came up with the theme of “Wines that don’t suck”, but I have to say it’s one of those I like the most, since it’s usually what I’m after more than specific regions, wines, vintages, etc. Being (finally) back in the motherland and meeting with friends I had not seen for quite a while, I had the opportunity to drink some really nice wines over the last month. As usual it’s more impressions and data points than anything, I’m done with playing the scribe and taking pages of TNs. Let’s get started.
1986 Raymond Boulard Champagne "La Comète"
This is a special (and may I say very rare) bottle of champagne that I heard about a lot and always wanted to try, which became possible through the generosity of somebody who I shall not name. It was all I expected and more, a perfect example of aged champagne with an incredible harmony of power and finesse - robust and forward but still light on its feet, it was a real treat.
1990 Dom Pérignon Champagne
My last bottle, it was unfortunately showing sub-par, probably damaged along the way in one way or another (that specific bottle was bought off eBay and even though I had spectacular luck so far with this, every once in a while an average bottle is likely to show up). It was still unmistakably DP in style but lacking a bit in power. Having had this wine numerous times in the past it was a bit disappointing, even though it was still pretty good that night.
2001 J-F Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny
Mike’s last bottle, and even though we drank a lot of bottles together over the years, he somehow managed to go through a whole case of this without me having the opportunity to drink it! This is now done and what a great bottle of wine it was, simply incredible for its “village” pedigree. What I liked the most about it is that it was so clearly Chambolle and yet so clearly Mugnier at the same time - showing that a great producer can have a very distinctive style and still let the terroir shine. Amateurs of purity, finesse and minerality should definitely try this.
2001 Beaune Bouchard 1er cru "Vignes de l’Enfant Jésus"
A bottle I had heard of but never tried, it was hitting on all cylinders, surprisingly ready to drink, also surprisingly pure (not the first thing that comes to my mind when I think of Bouchard’s wines), almost very “cotes de Nuits” and yet another hint that I should explore the CdB a lot more. I’d definitely grab a few if I saw this on the shelves somewhere.
1999 Léoville-Poyferré Saint-Julien
Over the years this has developed into one of my “go-to” wines, but this time I was a bit disappointed, I remembered a very “honest” Bordeaux and found a little bit too much make-up for my taste, very fruit forward, quite ripe, I had to double check I grabbed the right vintage… surprising but still decent.
2004 Roumier Bourgogne
Really good for the appellation and for its price point (under 10 euros), no green streak, just pure pleasure.
2005 Charvin CdP
Wow that was good - of course it’s quite young but it’s exactly the kind of CdP I like and incidentally the opposite of what turned me away from CdP in the last few years. Here we’re back to more traditional stuff, not overoaked, not jammy, not overly concentrated, in short not chasing points, simply putting out good stuff, true to the appellation, lots of herbs and blood and just nice.
1998 Tattinger Comtes de Champagne
I don’t have much experience with this producer but I didn’t expect this champagne to be so round, full, very buttery and yeasty, I somehow associated the producer with a different style. Very good but not exceptional.
2004 Chateau Margaux Pavillon Blanc
Again one of those wines that make me think I should definitely investigate this area more, every time I drink a white bdx I am very pleased (except the few that go in the cat pee direction). I thought it was ready to drink despite the vintage (I expected something younger), the oak is clear but not detrimental, the acidic backbone means it goes really well with food, which is typically a huge factor in my enjoyment of wine.
2000 Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin
Typical 2000, clearly GC level, interestingly the 2000s were drinking well early on but they’ve kept doing so for many years now, I wonder when they will start to decline, but for the moment they look like a really good vintage that’s drinking superbly at any time…
2003 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin
Well… in all honesty that was disappointing, very jammy, sweet and more importantly rough, especially the tannins. It’s not a bad wine, it’s just a wine that doesn’t give much pleasure right now. So different that it’s impossible for me to take a guess whether it’s just too early or if the wine will simply never come around.
1999 d’Yquem Sauternes
There are 2 sides for this wine: for a Sauternes, and a 99 at that, it’s really good. For a d’Yquem, it’s so-so. Take your pick.
2007 Jamet Cotes du Rhone (Syrah)
I thought I wasn’t a big fan of this wine but in the end I think I’m just not a big fan of 2007 as a vintage for CdR. Still nowhere near the gem that the Cote Rotie is, but for the price it’s doing alright, just not particularly better than other CdRs.
2001 Fevre Chablis Les Clos
Wow… every time I drink this wine I’m baffled by how Fevre managed to produce such good stuff in such a vintage. But even forgetting about the vintage it’s not only a “great chablis for the vintage”, it’s a great chablis, period. Long, wide, very aromatic, not one thing off. Again, wow. If you own any just pop one open, it’s drinking beautifully right now (much better than last year).
2003 Philippe Alliet Chinon VV
Much better than I remembered, very floral, great nose, holding up well in the mouth, very Cab Franc and nothing hinting at the vintage, maybe lacking a bit of Chinon-ness for my tastes but still drinking very well.
2002 Marc Morey Chassagne En Virondot
I’ve been on the fence with this wine because I enjoyed it tremendously when it was young and I debated whether to drink them all in the first few years, or letting them age (they seemed promising) but dreading premox. So far so good, it’s still drinking superbly well, just as I remembered with more and more stuffing with age, the aromatics are getting broader and broader, same for the length. Another “go-to” wine for me.
2007 Roland Schmitt Gewurztraminer Glintzberg
Prototypical Gewurtz, flowery, just sweet enough to be very “gourmand”, this wine literally disappears when opened. A crowd pleaser and well deserved.
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