Rambling in northeast Italy - a wine centric trip

Sharing some of our adventures and misadventures on a 10 day trip to northeast Italy, including stays in Trieste, Cividale del Friuli, Cormons, and Bardolino on Lake Garda.

Sept 14
Flew overnight Delta from BOS to VCE via AMS…

Sept 15
Delay in our AMS TO VCE flight, but the flight over the Dolomites was “spettacolare”. Major screwup by me in our original Eurocar reservation at VCE. We were rescued by Avis for some additional $. Close to a two hour drive to Trieste thanks to some missed turns by me. One of my mistakes luckily took us along a beautiful coastal road near Trieste, with cars parked along both sides of the road for miles. Google Maps found our DoubleTree hotel, where at check-in, they told us we had been upgraded to a corner suite. Sweet!
. . . Exhale.
As tempting as a nap was, we instead headed out with a vague idea of a stroll, vinoteca stop(s) and gelato. Turned into a lovely, few hour, first taste of Trieste. Beautiful architecture, waterfront, and older streets. Via Cavana while busy, had a pleasant vibe and led us to an unplanned stop at a wine bar called Al Ciketo. Here they serve wines by the glass at around 5 euro, and various small snacks on french bread (cicchetti) at 1 euro each. Seating outdoors. My wife and I shared 4 glasses of white wine with maybe a dozen ciccheti. We had a pleasant intro to some of the region”s white wines - Vitovska, Friulano, Malvasia, Ribolla di Gialla. Maybe not “high end” wines (e.g. Gradis’sciutta) but still “perfetto”. We finished our evening with a gelato stop at Natura Gelato, where I got a killer two scoop cup of salted chocolate and frutti de bosco. A very nice early evening.
. . . Buona Notte.



()

15 Likes

whoo hoo! I’ve been waiting for this trip report- keep 'em coming!

September 16

Our one and only full day in Trieste began with an indulgent breakfast at our hotel that started with washing down my morning pills with a glass of Prosecco. A first plate of savories and a second one of sweets. A couple of double espresso cappuccini.
. . . Ready to go !

We were walkers in the city for a good few hours visiting some landmarks and making some new acquaintances with people of flesh and of bronze.


Our walk took us to the high ground of the city, featuring green-spaces, a castle and a beautiful spectacularly understated church.



Trieste has a nice feel to it. During our walk, we passed by the Enoteca Hortis wine shop and stopped in to look and chat. Fantastic selection of local wines. Friendly and knowledgeable owner. Very recommend this wine shop.

We had a special dinner planned at Tratorria Nerodispeppia, which has great fish dishes and a long wine list of local wines. We dropped by midday just to say hi to Valentina who owns the restaurant with her husband Giullio, and is responsible for the stellar wine selection.

Our evening started with an apertivo at the wine bar La Bottiglia Volante. Small place emphasizing natural wines from all over with several local wines available by the glass. We shared two glasses of white wine. The Edi Keber Collio Bianco blend of Friulano, Malvasia, and Ribolla di Gialla was especially good. As we walked to dinner, dark clouds and lightning flashes filled the sky, but lucky for us (so far) no rain.


At dinner at Nerodeseppia, the 2022 Borgo di Tiglia Friulano called to me from the wine list. This was his basic Friulano, not the single vineyard one. We both loved this wine from first sip. Very complex and multidimensional and immediately pleasing. Before we could take a second sip, however, the sky finally exploded with a thunderous hailstorm. Within minutes the storm stopped, then water started leaking from the ceiling, and then the power went out in the restaurant and stayed out. Poor Giullio! Customers at various stages of ordering left the restaurant. We lingered to finish our bottle of Friulano, while chatting in the dark with a young woman who wanted to show off her English. I poured a glass for Giullio, who managed a smile and a grazie, but set the glass down to deal with more pressing issues. Giullio comped everyone no matter what stage of their dinner.


We walked back to our hotel in the after-storm lights of Trieste, stopping for pizza on the way.

. . . Buona notte

2 Likes

Mi dispiace! Hopefully you found somewhere else to eat?

1 Like

September 17
Moving day from Trieste to Cividale del Friuli, about an hour and a half drive, with a few stops along the way. The weather started out beautiful and stayed that way. . .

Skerk winery
The Carso is an important wine making region just outside of Trieste. Skerk is located in the hamlet of Prepotto with Zidarich next door, and Edi Kante nearby. We had a morning visit at Skerk and Tina was our guide. We caught glimpses of Sandy Skerk as he walked by a few times, but no buongiorno or even eye contact. Harvest decisions on his mind, I think. The wine cellar is literally cavelike, carved underground out of the limestone rock and red soil. They even do frementation in underground vessels made from limestone. Very atmospheric and dimly lit cellar space. Their “white” lineup includes Vitovska, Malvasia, and a white blend they call Ograde, (Vitovska Malvasia, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio). The Ograde has an amber orange color from the skins of the Pinot Grigio. They macerate all their grapes for two weeks. Red wines include Terrano and a Terrano “reserve”. Finally, Skerk also makes a sparkling Glera (“prosecco”). We tasted all but the Glera. I found all of their wines to be distinctive and interesting, but not very enjoyable drinking to me on this day. They might need more time in the bottle or more attention from me to appreciate.


Rilke Trail, Sistiano
After our tasting we took a short drive to Sistiano to enjoy a seaside walk along the Rilke Trail that connects Sistiano to Duino. After solving the “where to park” puzzle we had a beautiful walk above the cliffs overlooking the sea. The poet Rilke himself was supposedly inspired by the same views we were having. Although I paused, and viewed, and waited, no poetic thoughts came to my mind. Maybe later?

Lunch at an Osmize
One last stop in Carso before continuing on our way to Cividale. Osmize are a long tradition in the area, where farms are able to open for short periods and act like restaurants, offering their own made cured meats, cheese and even wine. Very informal and popular. We found a good one open. We opted for a delicious apple juice instead of wine. What a spread! The beautiful weather kept cooperating, making our picnic table lunch very pleasant.

Cividale del Friuli
We chose to stay in an apartment that we found on booking.com for three nights as our base for visiting Friuli and Colli. You can never tell from the website photos what exactly you are getting, but the place had across-the-board stellar reviews, so we went for it. The apartment is really nice. The location on a piazza in the old town is attractive and convenient. The vibe of Cividale is an historic small city that is real. A heavy dose of residents with a sprinkling of visitors.

We took a short walk. A beautiful scenic river runs through the middle of the old town. Obligatory stop for gelato- marscapone with honey and nuts, an ricotta with sprinkled chocolatey bits (think “cannoli” )

We had dinner on our first night at Al Monastero, which specializes in Friulian dishes. I planned to order a bottle of wine, but the woman who welcomed us was so enthusiastic about the food and her ideas for glasses of specific wines with certain dishes, we just went with it. She even split dishes and tailored our selections when we told her we usually share our dishes. The wines were from their own winery and we enjoyed them all. Her pairing choices were excellent. We had Malvasia, Pinot Grigio, Schioppetino, and Refosco. Food was delicious, the highlight for me was a dumpling like creation stuffed with spinach and cheese and finished in an herbed truffle oil. Just a solid unpretentious and quality dining experience.

….Buonna note

3 Likes

September 18

Taking it all in . . .

Morning walk
There is a vast system of hiking trails in this region. Many of the major sections have been segmented into smaller hikes, and some of these have been broken down even further to accessible, fairly easy, round-trip walks that take you out in the fields and woods and can be done in a couple of hours. After breakfast we did one of these smaller walks that had a small village about halfway through. Beautiful walk along the edges of fields, woods, and river. We stopped at the village for a rest break and a Fanta, and then continued our walk back. Lovely.


Mitja Sirk Visit
We had an early afternoon tasting visit with Mitja Sirk who I first heard about in a post by @Saul_Mutchnick. Saul was kind enough to write Mitja an introductory email about my interest in visiting. We found Mitja washing out crates from finishing up his harvest the day before. A young man, both serious and friendly. His English is excellent, which was great for me. After a friendly introduction chat, he sat us at a small table and laid out a map of the winemaking region of FVG, with geographical features and wine growing areas highlighted. He took us through a very thorough and interesting education of everything geographical, geological, meteorological, and incidental that affected grape growing, selection and wine making. Fascinating! He was introducing personal aspects of his own development and choices as a wine maker as we transitioned to a tasting of his wines . He seems to be a believer in letting the vintage characteristics have their say in the wine. He concentrates on Friulano and we tasted three examples. His basic Bianco which is all Friulano, but a blend from eight distinct and geographically diverse vineyards, and two single vineyard bottlings, Meden and Ca Savorgnan. All were beautiful and enjoyable,with balanced mineral, herbal, and fruit, the Ca Savorgnan was at a different level. A wow wine! (BTW, we introduced Mitja to the expression “wowser!” ‘an interesting note is that because of the territorial diversity among the eight vineyards in the Bianco, the wine is only entitled to the lowest possible designation - Vino Bianco Europeo.


Overall in terms of winemaker engagement, education, and enjoyment of the wines our visit with Mitja was one pf our all time best ever. Mitja’s “other” job is sommelier at La Subida’s Michelin starred restaurant, where we will have a tasting menu dinner on the 20th and let Mitja help us with the wine selection.

Back to Cividale for a break
On the way back to Cividale, a major accident occurred just minutes ahead of us that had the route closed down. No formal detour was set up, yet so we scrambled between following other cars and our gps. We passed a sign for a winery that reminded me of someone @TGigante We eventually stopped at a gas station where we got info on an alternative route back to Cividale. Alls well that ends well.


Back to Cormons for an evening white wine tasting event.
Coincidentally, Cormons is having their annual wine harvest festival on September 19, 20,21. The Festa dell’Uvo is a big deal with a lot happening, including themed evening wine tasting events. The one we attended this evening was sort of a prequel to the festival and the theme was the diversity in white wine (bianco) blends. Six wines were featured with a bonus wine at the end. Some small bites were also served by a creative “slow food” chef. About 40 people at small outdoor tables on a beautiful evening. There were a few winemakers scatted at the tables and they were given the microphone to say something about their wines. The whole event was in Italian, but Jacqueline translated for me. Overall not much education about the wines for my level of understanding Italian. The highlight of the wines for me was the 2018 Edi Keber Collio Bianco. Since we had enjoyed a glass of their 2022 in Trieste a couple of nights before, I boldly introduced myself to Kristian Keber. He was very friendly and kind to speak English. Kristian has taken over much from his father Edi. The winemaking under the Edi Keber label is almost entirely this Collio Bianco, which is a blend of Friulano, Malvasia, and Robolla Di Gialla. Delicious wine! As my wife took a photo of Kristian and me , I might have been meditating about how good this wine was.


Ending a great day back in Cividale. Temporary sculpture installation in the piazza outside our apartment is powerful and casts a wonderful shadow at night.

. . . Buonna note

6 Likes

That’s for the heads up, Jim.
Have seen the label before but didn’t know the region.

1 Like

September 19

Oh my . . .

Today only one thing was booked for our day. - an afternoon visit at Ronchi di Cialla. The pace of the trip was creeping up on us and we slept a bit late. We also lingered over our espresso and a cereal breakfast in our apartment before heading out. . . .

Morning Walk/Hike and La Braida Restaurant
Today we tried a different walk. Same idea, walk to the outskirts of Cividale then hike along a fairly easy trail next into to fields and woods. This walk had a couple of potential possibilities for a break for cappuccino, but it was not a sure thing. We met a woman walking her dog and after some conversation we asked about a place for coffee. She told us about La Braida and went out of her way to show us an off the trail shortcut. Only one outside table had been set up so we joined an older Italian guy nursing his daily half beer. We were soon joined by another guy who had a full beer. This was about 11am. Jacqueline’s Italian kept it very sociable and friendly as we enjoyed our cappucini with these gents. Fun interaction.



We said our arriverdverci and ciao to our new acquaintances and headed back on our walk. By the time we looped around and passed near La Braida again, it was lunch time, so we stopped at La Braida for lunch with almost no expectations. We both ordered a pasta dish and both dishes were incredibly delicious and of the highest quality preparation and ingredients. Oh my! We split a dessert of a crema based on the classic local sweet bread/cake Gubana. Oh my! Serendipity works miracles.


Ronchi di Cialla visit and tasting.
I had an email relationship with Ivan Rapuzzi, that started a while back with my question about the two “Lots” of Ribolla di Gialla that he bottles each year. It expanded with questions and comments before and after tasting bottles of 2013 CiallaBianco and 2010 Pignolo. I was looking forward to meeting him and having a tasting visit.
It was an adventure driving from Cividale to their home by the most difficult choice of route possible. But it was the shortest apparently according go my gps. . No name plate on the property, but we made our best guess and knocked on the door. Success. We met Ivan and his nephew Giacobbe (orJacopo?) and got started with the history of Ronchi di Cialla, a view of the adjacent vineyards and what made the location different and “special”. We then went to a tasting table under the shade of a tree where we were joined by Ivan’s delightful mother Dina. Linguistically, we were a diverse group of five. All but me spoke fluent Italian. Dina spoke no English; Ivan spoke good serviceable English; Giacobbe spoke English very well with a good understanding of the subtleties; I was the Italian dunce, but made some efforts anyway. We made it work quite well and enjoyed each others company aside from the wine.
The wines Ivan chose to pour were extraordinary. We started with a 2024 Ribolla di Cialla that sings a modest tune perhaps, but offers such great balance and pleasurable drinking. We went on to taste 2022 Ciallobianco, 2019 Schioppetino di Cialla, and 2020 Verduzzo di Cialla. The Verduzzo was a beautiful sweet wine . A wine of meditation and Ivan played some a music recording specifially compsed for this wine. Great wines, delicacy and finesse and enjoyment. Wonderful visit and tasting.


Apertivo as dinner
There is a custom here of having a drink and small bites before dinner. We made the appertivo our actual dinner tonight at an Enotecta in the piazza just steps from our apartment. I enjoyed my glass of Malvasia.

Dolce vita stuff.

…Buonna notte

6 Likes

Thanks Jim.

Mitja Sirk is a good fella. La Subida is superb. Had a cracking meal there a few months ago. We asked Mitja to find us a couple of good examples of aged local wines and he met the brief perfectly. Trattoria al Cacciatore, also run by the Sirk family, is well worth a visit. Some gems on the wine list at cheap prices.

1 Like

September 20

Leaving Cividale . . .

Last walk
We needed to checkout by 11am. So “we” packed up and had everything in the car by 10:30 and went on another walk/hike. Same route as a previous walk but in the opposite direction so its seemed new in some ways. Great start to the day.


Lunch at Osteria di Ribolla
We had at tasting at Borgo di Tiglio scheduled for 2pm, so we stopped on the way for a light lunch at Osteria di Ribolla. This is a restaurant affiliated with Collavini wine. Beautiful and relaxed restaurant with seating inside or out. Good list of Collavini wine by the glass. I enjoyed a glass of Ribolla di Gialla Turian, a single vineyard wine that was full fruited and savory and delicious with our taglioni with porcini sauce. Funny entrance to the bathrooms.



Borgo di Tiglio Visit
I had originally scheduled a visit with Gravner. But based on tasting some Skerk macerated wines that were so-so to our palates, and a Borgo Di Tiglio that thrilled our palates, I cancelled the Gravner visit and managed to get a last minute visit at Borgo di Tiglio. A big help to the success of my request was a link to a short tasting note I made in Wineberserkers about their Friulano. What bottle of wine did you open today? (Part 2) - #7933 by Jim_Stewart We were hosted by Mattia Manferrari, the son of Nicola. Very pleasant young man who responded to my interest and enthusiasm by giving us a tour and tasting beyond expectations. Vineyards are adjacent to the home and property including their Ronco della Chiesa vineyard of Friulano. Rocco della Chiesa translate roughly to “hill by the church” and that is literally true.
The winemaking started with Mattia’s grandfather, but papa Nicola took it to serious levels. According to Mattia, all the important winemaking decisions are made throughout the year until the very final crucial decisions of when and how to harvest. From then on they make the wines the same way every vintage, following the same procedures. I told Mattia thar I did not need an extensive tasting and was especially interested in comparing their basic Friulano with the Ronco della Chiesa. He gave us that and much more which was wonderful. The four whites, all from 2023, were outstanding. Roncho della Chiesa Friulano and the Malvasia Italo & Bruno were sublime. How generous of Mattia; how fortunate for us. We finished our tasting with two reds including an outstanding Merlot (bottle as “Rosso”). The Merlot was a nice personalized note to a conversation Mattia and I had in the vineyard in which he stressed the Merlot had been grown for wine for hundreds of years there, and he did not like the term “international variety” applied to it. All in all, a special and memorable visit and tasting.




La Subida
When planning our trip we had an open Saturday night between three nights in Cividale and three nights in Bardolino that I was trying to come up with ideas for. I inquired about vacancy at La Subida, and was a bit shocked but pleased that they had availability. We reserved the Relaxation “house” and booked the Grand Tasting Menu dinner at their Michelin starred restaurant. This whole trip was in celebration of our recent 50th anniversary, so this would make a nice little splurge celebration within it.


Grand Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings
At a Michelin starred restaurant and with a tasting menu we were prepared for the small plates, inventive and artistically presented. Nevertheless, we shared some jokes about the size of the servings. But seriously, the food was delicious.
And Mitja Sirk was there in his sommelier role and persona. It took Jacqueline a few tries to loosen him up for us. Mitja gave us a thoughtful and wide ranging selection of seven wines, including unexpected but very successful pairings (e.g. Sweet Verduzzo with cured deer). We had some some playful back and forth about wine pairing. Mitja downplayed his work (“I just open some bottles”) but he has a golden touch of coming up with individual wines and also a progression and flow of wines to match the individual plates and the progression and flow of the dinner. He told us that he never opens the same wines even if adjacent tables are having the same menu. Bravo, Mitja! A wonderful three hour wine dinner experience for the both of us that ended with a “Michelin-sized” decaf espresso.




5 Likes

Thanks so much for these updates Jim, they’ve been great to follow.

1 Like

September 21

From FVG to Lake Garda. . .

I booked our last three nights of this trip in Bardolino on Lake Garda , since we have never visited one of the Italian lakes, and this one was fairly doable. We had a delicious breakfast at La Subida and said goodby to the horses before heading out. We were very impressed by the quality of the roads on the autoroute and the general courtesy of the drivers. (I live near Boston which is deficient on both counts). Three hour drive, including one pit stop and the gps going nuts near our final destination. We were checked in by 2 pm and in the pool shortly after.


Prati Palai
We chose to stay at Prati Palai which is up on the hill about a mile from Bardolino center. It is a converted farmhouse offering a high level of comfort. Great view of the hillside and lake. Getting up here was a little perilous reminding us of some of the smaller winding “white roads” of the Chianti region. Once we arrived, the overall level of quiet and peace was startling. We opted for an offered upgrade to a lakeside suite for 5€ per night. No brainer?!. Very comfortable space. Best shower ever - a rainfall that was more like a waterfall!


We took a walk down to the town late afternoon and got a pizza. The town was swarming with both residents and tourists on this sunny Sunday afternoon. The charm was hard to sense for us. We took a walk along Lake Garda, had a yummy gelato and then trudged back up to our quiet refuge in the hills and watched the sunset.


We hit the sack early, fully fatigued.

… . Buonna notte

5 Likes

Perhaps no surprise Jim but I’ve very much enjoyed your write up and the seeing the stops on your tour. Enjoy rest of the trip!

1 Like

September 22
dolce far niente …

The silence of the Prati Palai surroundings is so different for us. We are used to the sounds of a busy suburb near Boston. It comes at a good time as we are ready for a slower pace. The day broke cloudy with a mid morning rain predicted. We enjoyed a fine breakfast at a small table in the courtyard. Homemade cakes and pies highlighted the sweets, but the savories were fine too.


The rain came as predicted and we didn’t try to force the start of the day, so we just relaxed inside. By noon the rain had stopped and we resumed our day outside. A walk down to Bardolino then along the boardwalk and shore path in the direction of Cisano. There were far fewer people than yesterday, still mostly tourists in my reading. Just as we began to talk about lunch we found a small restaurant just off the path.We split a pizza and a nice salad. I had a glass of Soave with the meal. Tasty and just right.



We headed back, stopping in Bardolino to find some cheese, baguette style bread, and dessert for our evening meal. Jacqueline led the way up the final stretch of the dirt road, her hat adorned with local flowers that I picked on the way. I lagged a bit at the end, but my apple watch told me we had walked over five miles, so no wonder.

As we rested in our room, I received an email that the first leg of our return flight on September 24 had been cancelled by KLM. Not good news. I spent about an hour online with Delta trying to understand my options. Sidetracked a bit by procedure differences between KLM and Delta, I am pretty sure we will be rebooked with something that works for us, but not sure of the exact rebooking yet. We put the confusion aside for a while and went out to enjoy another sunset with our meal along with a bottle of Skerk Osgrade wine. The wine is included in the cost of their tour and the wine retails for almost the cost of the tour. We relaxed, enjoyed the wine much more with food than at our Skerk tasting. Shared the cheese with a Finnish couple that we met. Enjoyed a beautiful sunset.


… buonna notte

5 Likes

you are really doing it right! great pics and info

1 Like

How far are you from the Lake itself?

Straight line from Prati Palai to the lake is about 1 kilometer
To Bardolino Center:
Walking is about 2.4 k or 30 minutes
Driving about 2.7 k or <10 minutes


1 Like

We’re tentatively headed to Northern Italy in May, so I’ve bookmarked this thread!

1 Like

September 23

Our last full day . . .

Started with a repeat of yesterdays breakfast in the courtyard under the olive trees. Rain forecast for around mid-day. We were winding down our vacation, but we felt a little sorry for some of our fellow guests who were just starting theirs. Off on their way they went anyway. That’s the spirit!


Lunch at Trattoria Caprini in Negrar de Valpolicella
We had a mid afternoon wine visit at Quintarelli, so we picked a place close to have a light lunch.very popular and busy and the pasta was delicious. Killer prosciutto and cheese on a shared plate. Italians seem to know how to cook pasta correctly.

Quintarelli
We booked a 2:30 visit. They also offer one at 10:30. This a group tour and tasting, maybe 12 of us. Nice tour. Impressive place. But your interactions are with the tour guide. We ended the visit with a very strong wine tasting . All wines were small pours, all were excellent. The two Amarone were the highlights. One theme that I picked up on was the use of at least some “passito” grapes in every wine. This adds depth and complexity IMO. The visit and tasting was 60 euro per person.





Final gelato stop
We stopped about halfway back to Prati Palai for a final gelato fix. We each went for Bacio and Salted Caramel. Probably the best of many good gelato on this trip.

Final flight details straightened out
We were a little agitato by our first leg flight out of Venice being cancelled late yesterday. This evening we were able to get things straight, rebooked to a reasonable alternative, got a relatively cheap $ upgrade to Air France Business Class from CDG to BOS, checked in and got our boarding passes. A semi-exhale !

Final sunset
I went out to try to take a picture of our final beautiful sunset from Prati Palai. Jacqueline took a picture of me doing that and her sunset photo is better than mine.

Flowers from yesterday’s walk (carpe diem)

… buonna notte

7 Likes

September 24

Homeward bound . . .

This was a good trip!

. . . good night.

6 Likes