Will be in Lisbon in a few months. Probably taking a day trip to Sintra and Cabo da Roca. Since I would like to eat lots of fish, especially Octopus (even though my wife feels guilty after watching “My Octopus Teacher”) it would be fun to get into Portuguese whites. Any specific varietals, regions, producers to recommend.
If I did not have a clue on a wine list I would probably choose an Alvarhino, and honestly I don’t have a clue.
Thanks in advance,
Daniel
Look for producers. Anselmo Mendes and Soalheiro both make terrific alvarinho in vinho verde. Arinto is a high acid white grown all over the country. Chocopalha in Lisboa is a favorite. Fernao Pires (aka Maria Gomes) is great in Bairrada. Filipa Pato, Luis Pato, Quinta do Baixo are great. My favorite varietal of them all is Encruzado from Dao. Ribero Santo/Carlos Lucas, Carlos Raposo, and Quinta do Sobral are my favorites. Don’t forget the espumante, especially Bairrada.
I travel to Portugal fairly often and am ITB @Eric_Ifune above gives great rec’s.
Niepoort!
I have no specific suggestions except (1) it’s tough to beat a nice vinho verde, and (2) in Portugal, wine price has absolutely no relation to quality. I found that the €10 bottle was often better than the €20 bottle. And good luck even finding a €30 bottle, unless you’re in a tourist restaurant. So don’t be afraid to cast a wide net and try several different bottles of the cheap stuff. It’s likely to be good!
Also, since you mentioned octopus, I want to put a dish called “Percebes” on your radar. They are barnacles. Sounds weird, I know. But they are delicious. Order some and ask the server for a lesson in how to eat them. Percebes were my favorite dish in Portugal, followed by all the great octopus. And if you happen to be planning a trip south to Sagres, let me know and I’ll give you a great restaurant recommendation.
Thank you Eric!!
Very enlightening. I have some research to do now. Could you please tell me about Encruzado? Is there a similar varietal in Spain or Italy that compares? Non oaked, oaked, barrel fermented, steel, etc? And nice with shellfish, fish or whatever? If not too much to ask do you have any Lisbon area restaurant recommendations? Both casual and higher end?
Muito Obrigado!
In Lisbon, I recommend Tasco do Teimoso, it’s a little hole in the wall just north of the Bairro Alto, run by a mother and son team. All the food was fantastic, but the octopus dish I had was particularly good. Be warned: It’s small, so make reservations in advance.
Looks delicious! Great location. Try to give it a go.
Thanks Charles
Eric’s advice is solid, though I need to correct some of his misspellings - Ribeiro Santo, Chocapalha, Quinta de Baixo. There are more great whites in Bairrada - I’m thinking of Kompassus (a project with oenology by Anselmo Mendes), Nuno do Ó’s wines (Aliás, Doravante) and the GIZ wines. They are usually varying blends of Bical and Maria Gomes. I would add Quinta do Regueiro as the third great Alvarinho producer in Monção-Melgaço. In the Amarante subregion of the Vinhos Verdes (the largest wine region in Portugal by far) check out wines from Quinta de San Joanne. In Beira Interior don’t miss Quinta da Biaia and its tense, high altitude whites. When it comes to Encruzado, and Dão whites in general, I would add Quinta dos Carvalhais and Passarella as very dependable and widely available choices. Carvalhais’ Branco Especial, a multi-vintage blend, is a candidate for GOAT in Portuguese whites, and worth the splurge (cheaper than many Burgundy village whites).
For dinner in Lisbon I would heartily recommend Lisboa à Noite, in the Bairro Alto. Fantastic, unpretentious traditional food, and an excellent wine list.
had this wine a few times recently and really love it:
It was a big hit at a dinner party…
Typing in a rush! 
Encruzado is best when barrel aged. There are nonoaked versions, but would prefer other varieties. Most producers have dialed back on new oak and use a mix with older oak and some inox. The good versions remind me of white burgundy.
the former winemaker at Nieport Luis Seabra (left 2011/12 i think) makes his own wines now, and they’re well worth seeking out as well.
I recommend O Poleiro, a small restaurant just north of central Lisbon. Nice people, nice food, nice restaurant.
Very much appreciate the advice from Eric and Tomas. Attached are some pictures of two wines we had in Lisbon that were outstanding. And a puff pastry with goat cheese and a pumpkin jam we had at Lisboa A Noite, that was incredible. Both the Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho and Dona Sancha Encruzado were great matches for our meals. And Lisboa A Noite was fabulous. A good start to Lisbon.
I love the Parcela Única so much. Gotz to get me some soon…!
