I need some current advice on a trip planned in June. Arriving in Marseille and traveling mostly along the coast to St. Tropez. Where to stay, eat, visit wineries, what to see. Any and all would be appreciated very much.
One of my fondest memories in France is a place called www.riboto-de-taven.fr/
In a valley below Les Baux. Perfection in the understated lodging, food and staff. Used to be a 2 star Mich restaurant and tired of the stress.
The 2 owners are truly unbelievable.
Also stop by Tempier in Bandol. Have fun.
Wow. That place looks great Tom. Did you stay in the rooms with the rock walls?
The finest restaurant in and around Marseilles is the 3 star Le Petit Nice-Passedat. It’s family owned and specializes in impeccably fresh fish and seafood prepared according to Provencale tradition with a creative flair. One dish I remember well was grilled rouget in a red wine reduction, paired with the 1985 Lynch Bages at the sommelier’s suggestion. Simply a harmonious match. The kitchen displays flawless technique and manages to elevate the taste of fish with just the slightest addition of herbs. The service is 3 star, the dining room is airy with sweeping views of the sea, and tables are spaced well. I’ve eaten here twice, and the family owns a Relais and Chateau hotel adjacent to the restaurant.
Aix-en-Provence is 15 minutes from Marseilles, and is the gateway to Provence. Aix is a beautiful city that has Roman roots, and is eminently walkable. The heart of the city is the magnificent Cours Mirabeau, a tree lined boulevard that has restaurants and cafes on one side and banks and businesses on the other. Sit at a cafe and take in the local scene, a mix of high energy university students, young families, professionals and tourists. Aix is not known for fine dining, but Bastide du Cours, on the Cours Mirabeau, acquits itself well serving Provencale dishes competently prepared. I’ve eaten well here five or six times. Small wine list, but there’s always a Chateau Simone red and white available. There is a large outdoor space if you prefer to eat while watching Aixois life.
Le Clos de la Violette used to be the finest restaurant in Aix, having risen to 2 star status, but they lost a star several years back. When they were at the top of their game, one could eat and drink well and vow to return again. After a hiatus of some five years, I did just that last autumn, and it was apparent the chef owner was serious in regaining the reputation of his restaurant. I had a good meal and drank well while enjoying the ambience of the bright dining room and warm service, but the food lacked the creative flair and clarity of taste it had displayed in an earlier incarnation. If you’re in Aix and want to have an evening out, you might want to give this place a shot. They have an outdoor patio as well.
Outside of Aix in Meyreuil is Chateau Simone, a winery that has a large local following and has also been sniffed out by the wine cognoscenti. They produce a red, white and rose, all of which are delicious and the red can age well. I’m currently drinking the '88, a wine that can give the better known Domaine Tempier, Chateau Pradeaux, etc., a run for their money. The chateau goes back to the 16th century, and there are gardens and fountains on the property. Tastings and tours of the chateau are by appointment.
Have a great trip.
No didn’t stay in the rooms built into the mountain but did walk through them, they are very cool - literally. Another great place we stayed on another trip was in Moustier which is considered the grand canyon of France.
http://www.bastide-moustiers.com/?lang=fr another place I will never forget. The story I heard was Alain Ducasse liked to ride his motorcycle between his 2 *** restaurants in Monaco and Paris and realized there wasn’t a decent place for him to bed down half way so he built this place. They grow most of their own food and the setting is very soothing.
If you haven’t been there before, don’t miss a visit to Les Baux itself…
Cheers!
Marshall ![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
If you haven’t been there before, don’t miss a visit to Les Baux itself…
Cheers!
Marshall [/quote]
Les Baux is indeed a truly beautiful village. If you’re so inclined, Gordes is another village worth exploring.
Bumping this up to see if anyone can recommend a hotel outside of St. Tropez. I don’t want to stay in the city but close by. Prefer small inns or B&B
Leonard - closer to Monaco than St Tropez, but I stayed in Eze last year and it was great. Chevre d’Or is awesome if a bit pricy. Chateau Eze is a little more reasonable and almost as nice.
For others on this thread, we also stayed at Riboto de Taven & stayed in the caves. That was cool, but the best part was the fantastic food prepared for guests-only but the owner’s brother. Some of the best food we had on the trip, and was pretty reasonable as a room supplement.
I adore this place. Two very nice folks run it. Fabulous food. Philippe and Christine are just the best. Christine’s brother is there too.
He is the chef and used to be at the two star Ousteau de Baumaniere
Just following up. We are staying in Les Baux and Joucas, any recommendations? For Les Baux, we have Ousteau de Baumaniere on our list, but look like Riboto-de-Taven is closed. Any others?
We also are scheduled for La Table de Xavier Mathieu Restaurant in Joucas, but looking for at least one or two more.
We had a wonderful Sun lunch at Ô Caprices de Mathias in St Remy last yr. Also in St Remy is L’Aile ou la Cuisse-the spatchcock is huge and excellent. Lunch at Le Château des Alpilles only a couple kms N of Les Baux is stunning and sit outside. We have not had the food at Chateau d’Estoublon but have enjoyed drinks outside in the afternoon-this is a few kms W of Les Baux. Of course, make sure you see the show at the caves.
Carrières des Lumières | Centre d’art numérique & immersif aux Baux-de-Provence. Almost forgot Bistrot Paradou is a few kms S of Les Baux.
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Casual and good in St. Remy Cuisine des Anges | Alpilles en Provence
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If staying in Marseille and have craving for bouillabaise, Ches Fonfon (among many others) is worth the trek up-hill.
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