Premox Roulette on the hill of Corton

WINE TALK
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Always wary of the premox risk when opening a Boillot older than 5 years, I brought a backup from PYCM to dinner last night with friends. To my delight the Boillot was fantastic, and we were having such a good time that we decided to do an impromptu side by side. Tonight the Boillot was the better wine, but the PYCM is a cracking good wine that in time will be superior.

  • 2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (7/20/2025)
    PNP. The nose is reduced, flinty and a touch closed. Lean, chalky palate, with tense citrus fruit. Needs a few years to relax, but there’s a ton of material here. (94 points)
  • 2016 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (7/20/2025)
    PNP. Great nose, sharp citrus rind and flint. Deep palate, lots of perfectly ripe fruit in a mineral laden texture. Outstanding. (95 points)

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Glad you enjoyed them. I’ve found one can never compare a PnP at the end of the night to a bottle that has been open the whole night since most wines improve considerably with air.

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A widely held view which on the whole does not reflect my experience.

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If the air doesn’t make a difference, sometimes the alcohol will.

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The gap between opening these wines was just 40 minutes, and I saved a decent pour of the Boillot so that I could do a side by side comparison. The Boillot was open for 2+ hours, the PYCM 1.5+ hours. I’ve found 16s to be more generous and 17s to have a lot of dry extract that bodes well for long term evolution. This was the 5th 16 CC from Boillot that I’ve opened, and have gotten lucky. They are great when they’re not premoxed.

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