Port Classification

[Mark_Golodetz]

Just returned from Portugal, where I was on a Vinho Verde press trip. I managed in a couple of days early to taste some Port. Not enough time, but had appointments at taylor, Symington, and then while I was there Niepoort. Tasted mostly young, apart from an extraordinary 1880 Colheita from Silvha (Noval later bought the property). Magnificent Port, still fresh and young.

Anyway, as I was touring Symington, I asked about the internal hierarchy of Ports. The answer really surprised me. At the top, Graham and then Vesuvio, followed by Warre’s and Dow (same level). Personally, I have always put Dow at the same level as Graham, and generally preferred Dow. So would be interested in other’s views, but here for what it’s worth is my stab at least for the more important houses and their vintage Ports

Quinta do Noval Nacional

Taylor
Fonseca

Graham
Dow
Quinta do Noval


Vesuvio
Croft
Cockburn
Warre’s
Sandeman

Feirrera
Calem
Offley
Gould Campbell
Smith Woodhouse
Burmeister
Quarles Harris

[andy_velebil]

Yes, Graham’s is the Symington’s top house which is evident by how much is based around it, such as a Facebook page, their Blog, and the Lodge in Gaia. There is good reason for this too. Having done a number of verticals and horizontals of both Graham’s and Dow’s, Graham’s is the clear winner between them. Something not so evident when young, but as they age you can clearly see how the Graham’s ages slower and holds up a little better than the Dow’s.

Don’t misconstrue what I said though, as the Dow’s is a fantastic house and makes some amazing Vintage Ports. But even the latest 1963 to 2007 side by side comparison of these two houses I did last October with the now-retired Peter Symington (the winemaker of those vintages) clearly showed Graham’s had the advantage as they aged.

As for the others, no doubt Vesuvio is another flagship. It’s a massive Quinta and also makes some amazing Ports and very good Douro dry wines as well. Not to mention it has a nice history behind it as well.

But some others don’t get their just…Smith Woodhouse and Gould Campbell are known to make some top VP’s as well. Yet these aren’t widely talked about except by us “Port nerds.” I assume because they aren’t widely known names for most people, but good for the rest of us since prices of these tend to stay quite cheap in comparison to some other houses. Even Quarles Harris makes some very nice VP’s in some declared years, 1977 is one that comes to mind right off the bat.

As for ranking houses…

[Eric_Ifune]

Are you talking about historically, or more recently?
Noval, not counting Nacional, has always been good; but I wouldn’t have considered it one of the best until the 1997 vintage. Since then, it has been one of the top, but before then, not so much. Vesuvio is a great property but it’s fruit has been lost in blends until the Symingtons bought it. I believe their first vintage was in the late '80’s.
In years gone by, I believe Cockburn was considered one of the best prior to 1963. Sandeman also had a great reputation years ago.

[andy_velebil]

@Eric Ifune

Are you talking about historically, or more recently?
Noval, not counting Nacional, has always been good; but I wouldn’t have considered it one of the best until the 1997 vintage. Since then, it has been one of the top, but before then, not so much. Vesuvio is a great property but it’s fruit has been lost in blends until the Symingtons bought it. I believe their first vintage was in the late '80’s.
In years gone by, I believe Cockburn was considered one of the best prior to 1963. Sandeman also had a great reputation years ago.

The first vintage of Vesuvio, after the Sym’s bought it, was the 1989. A good Port but pretty much fully mature at this point.

Yes, Cockburns was a fantastic house back in the old days. Sadly, starting in the 70’s things generally didn’t go so well anymore. Although, I’ve had their 1977 VP which technically doesn’t exist as it was never declared or sold and the corks used ended up saying it was a Crusted Port (which it really wasn’t). It’s a fantastic Port, easily hanging with the best of the vintage, and a real shame it wasn’t declared and sold. The Symington’s bought the company late in 2010 and are working hard to get this house back up to its former glory.

[Mark_Golodetz]

@andy velebil

Yes, Graham’s is the Symington’s top house which is evident by how much is based around it, such as a Facebook page, their Blog, and the Lodge in Gaia. There is good reason for this too. Having done a number of verticals and horizontals of both Graham’s and Dow’s, Graham’s is the clear winner between them. Something not so evident when young, but as they age you can clearly see how the Graham’s ages slower and holds up a little better than the Dow’s.

We did a similar tasting, and found that the years split roughly down the middle. We preferred Graham in 1970, 1975, 1980, 1983, 1991, 1997 and about even in 2000.

Interestingly, Dow seemed more polished in the more opulent vintages. 1963 (this was from a magnum) 1966 (the Graham was a poor bottle) 1977, 1985 and 1994.

Within a week, I had the Vesuvios 1991 and 1994. In both vintages, I preferred both the other Ports, finding the Vesuvios lighter and a little more spicy. I have just picked up a couple of bottles of the '07 Capella, and will probably commit infanticide later this year.