I thought this for years until I had proper caviar service with the “right” champagne for the first time, and it opened my eyes. Since then, occasionally I get this on the way home from work after a long day, and brother, when it is awesome there is nothing better.
The story of Caviar is the saddest and my least favorite topic when it comes t great luxury food. I have the extreme fortune to work in a restaurant for about 10 years where the owner LOVED great caviar. Starting in 1998 we would often have a few full Kilo’s of great caviar each holiday season. One of our clients also had us cater large parties at his house where he would bring in great Russian Caviar to serve. It was amazing to have carte blanche access to these great eggs. Here is what I remember about Caviar (other than good caviar wants nothing more than a freshly cooked Blini and maybe a little butter - NO egg or onion or any of that other junk!)
The best will always be Beluga - the great Sturgeon who used to be harvested at 15 to 20 years. These eggs would be separated into categories with the triple 0 being the largest and best (the double 0 and standard Beluga). The flavor was almost creamy or buttery. This was what you wanted with very aged champagne. I always liked it better with a larger more biscuty style like Sir Winston or RD. The best was always from the Caspian sea.
The there was the Osetria - a smaller fish than Beluga, and would be harvest around 12 years. These eggs were much smaller, firmer and had a nutty flavor. These we liked ice cold Vodka with.
Then the bargain was Sevruga. The smallest and could be harvested around 7 years. The sharpest flavor and briniest. Again usually like vodka with this.
The sad part is in the mid 90’s and early 2000’s the fishing went crazy. The sturgeon form Caspian (especially around Kazakhustan - the best) was very over fished. As that happened the Sturgeon were being harvested much too young. The eggs were not as flavorful and even mushy. I am way too lazy to do a google search; but, I think the US banned Caspian Caviar around 2005 to 2007. I spent a more money than I should have looking for a substitute but was always let down by the quality and flavor. I am not sure how much romance played a factor but I largely avoid it now. There are some folks who have been raising (hatching?) Beluga Sturgeons in the US and are waiting until they are 15 years to start harvesting. I know some of the investors and seem like the real deal. Who knows… There could be hope!!!
I rarely see caviar served by itself because it can be a bit overpowering. I would prefer to have uni topped with caviar with my Champagne. That adds a bit more savory/sweet to complement the salty/brine of the caviar and the acidity of the Champagne.
its rarely served by itself because it is expensive. serving good caviar on uni is like drinking DRC with a Hershey’s bar. it misses the point entirely. caviar, at its best, is integral and balanced without anything else, much like a good oyster.
Look, I love uni as much as anyone, and I love caviar on uni, but the genius of caviar when it’s “on” is that it has the briny character cut with a certain creaminess and nuttiness. Just like the best oysters do, or really fine, fresh hard-shell lobster. Very few foods have that sort of internal contrast / balance - and caviar adds to that textual interest. It’s not a luxury good just because its rare, it’s also really extraordinary, and I’ll never understand why so much of it is wasted as a garnish on dishes to add a briny character that could be captured by other seafood ingredients that are a tenth of the price.
My first experience with massive amounts of caviar was on SS France in 1964. They served it from a large hemisphere silver bowl with a tablespoon. I’d have 2-3 tablespoons a night and have some extra because Shirley did not usually finish hers. The served it with Dom but I asked for iced vodka which seemed to win me brownie points. As long as Shirley was alive I would order 1/4 pound each of the four types that Zabars offered every Christmas. Yes, a pound. Then it was short money (relatively) and since I supplied Stanley his POS equipment, he took care of me. The Royal Imperial Beluga was very rare and I savored that solo. The rest usually with lightly buttered toast points. The last 1/4 lb. was reserved for NYE and that was with the best champagne I had at the time.
If I remember at the next OL I will bring the wine menu from the France with mind blowing producers at ridiculously low prices. BTW, I won the ships weight pool (16 lbs) which earned me a tour of the kitchen.
I’m not a fan of the match - I even think they sometimes clash, bringing out metallic off-flavors. It’s become a classic match less on account of taste than because they’re both festive luxury products, and also, I think, because there is a subconscious visual association between the little bubbles and the little eggs. But there are all sorts of still white wines that perform much better in this context than champagne for me.
Uni is one of the most overpowering flavors I can think of. It would completely overwhelm caviar for me. It also completely destroys any wine that I try to drink with it. I wonder if it doesn’t taste the same to everyone, though.
Doug - I find that uni from Maine can be a bit overpowering. I prefer uni from Santa Barbara (in the picture) or Japan. They are more creamy and sweet IMO. I also prefer West Coast over East Coast oysters for the same reason. I also think that a good Rose or BDN champagne stands up better to Uni.