Pinots: Mt Eden, Alfredo Roca, Domaine Eden

Planned on two bottles of Pinot but it was a thirsty group!

2018 Mount Eden Pinot Noir – Deep crimson color, no bricking. The aromas are beautiful, black cherry, conifer, a touch of earth, a touch of sage. This is a big wine, the texture is almost meaty, but it somehow maintains a beautiful transparency. There is vigor and muscle to this, but also delicacy, in other words the essence of great Pinot. It’s clearly New World, American, Californian, and the conifer declares the Santa Cruz origin. But there are echoes of Burgundy, there is an underlying steeliness that reminded me a little of Corton. This is a beauty just coming into its own, but with a long life ahead. Rated 95, a point or two of improvement possible over the next decade.

2015 Alfredo Roca Pinot Noir Family Reserve – I expected a letdown, but to my great joy I didn’t get one! This is a little lighter in color, with a tiny bit of bricking. The aromas also feature cherry, red as well as black, and a surprising note of black plum. This seems fully mature, with tannins mostly resolved, but with good balancing acidity. The flavors are subtle, with some flowery notes matching the mostly black fruit, with a touch of well-integrated oak. The finish is long and subtle, with both round and bright elements. Rated 93.5, drink over the next few years.

2016 Domaine Eden Pinot Noir – Pressed into duty at room, not cellar, temperature. The color was not as dark as the Mount Eden, but again no bricking. The aromas featured classic cherry, along with a raspberry note and black pepper. This is definitely lighter in body, the conifer streak is subdued, this is soft compared to the other two but not too soft. This is a lovely mid-weight Pinot at full maturity, with a very subtle finish. There is something lovely but almost tertiary in the finish, which speaks to drinking this sooner rather than later. Rated 92.5.

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I brought a bottle of the 2017 Domaine Eden Pinot to a harvest party last week and I thought it was delicious. What a great value this wine is.

Nice to see Mt Eden Estate compared against their Domaine Eden.

Thanks for these notes, Dan. I had the 2021 Mount Eden a few weeks ago. It was good but it certainly didn’t blow me away. There was a sense of awkwardness in the structure and quite a lot of as yet unfurled aromatics & flavour, which raises the possibility my lukewarm reaction was more a function of age than style.

I seem to remember you saying that Mount Eden Pinot Noir can seem a bit clumsy on release, and that it sometimes resolves and sometimes not. Please correct me if I’ve butchered this paraphrasing! So…Is this 2018 one where you felt it’s resolved since release? And if you’ve had the 2021, do you have thoughts on where that may head?

I’m a little bit trying to work out whether Mount Eden Pinot is not a priority for me (considering the effort of cellaring) or whether I just need to be more patient. Ultimately, I need to reach my own conclusion but it’s tricky for me to source older bottles so any insights appreciated.

No, you accurately posted my opinion.

I think Mount Eden Chard and Cab are both consistently very great wines. Pinot, not so much. Yes, they can be great, but they lack the consistency of the other two.
I’m on the road, when I get back I’ll see if I have any notes on 2021.
IMO Mount Eden Pinots, in the best vintages, are great wines from 10 - 25 years. This '18 is one of the best, still a little young, but I’ll probably open a bottle a year for the next 5+ and expect them to be wonderful.

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