Article by Eric Asimov/NYTimes about the Spätburgunder Tasting last december organised by Stephen Bitterolf/Crush and attended by the german winemakers Caroline Diel and Klaus Peter Keller.
“Pinot Noir with an Umlaut”
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Thanks for the link Martin. I wonder if the price points might cause many of these to be a tough sell in the US?
RT
A buddy gave me an August Kessler a couple of years ago - I’ll open this week and post back.
(This year’s wine project is to open up the orphan bottles in the cellar, anyway - last night I opened a 1998 Serezin NZ PN - meh - probably just sat on it too long.)
“These were high-end pinot noirs, which, if they were available in the United States, might retail for $70 to $140.”
LOL WUT? Grand Cru Burgundy prices my ass… I’ve had this stuff, it’s good, but nowhere remotely that good…
In Germany I have to pay around 30-40 Euro for these high-end Spätburgunder. 2-3 wines above 50 Euro.
I would like to point out that 2007 is the best Spätburgunder vintage so far in Germany and from year to year they are getting better and better. So if you have tasted Spätburgunder in the past, you will find out that these ´07 play in another league.
Cheers,
Martin
Just got an e-mail blast from Brown Derby referencing the Asimov article and listing 3 x 2007 Kellers priced from $30 - $100. I’m sure they’re lovely. I’ve also enjoyed a few Austrians over the past few years. But in this economy and Pinot over-saturated market (there’s an ocean), these Spatburgunders are going to be tough sell. I’d certainly give the Keller Burgel Trocken a shot for < $60…for $100, I can wait.
RT
Richard,
the 07 Keller “Felix” Bürgel is terrific! Good choice…
Cheers,
Martin
Opened a 2001 Kessler tonight. Black cherry fruit. Puckering acids. Firm tannins. Still kinda awkward and unbalanced. Probably should have waited five more years to open. Most distinct thing about the wine is how pronounced the fruit is, with minimal residual sugar. Reminded me of the 99 Panther Creek Knights Gambit. Fruity, but bone dry.
To my taste, the best pinots noirs with an umlaut come from Graubünden - and that’s in Switzerland, not Germany. Not much price relief if you can find any (the Swiss gulp them down) - a Gantenbein pinot easily reaches $100…
our local wine store guy is a huge fan of german pinot, the ones he has suggested in the $30 range have been quite nice. Depth of fruit with a strong stem presence, enjoyable to follow and taste.
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Seems to be the case with everything Swiss, Syrah, Pinot, Dole etc.
RT
I only have German pinot noir / spatburgunder once a year (maybe) but the 2018 August Kessler ‘Daily August’ Pinot Noir [Rheingau] could make me change my habits … if it was broadly available. It’s a delicious entry point red into a region that is now warm enough to ripen flavorful reds. 14.5% abv on the label, but medium bodied, and dark in color, with lots of brambly fruit and a bright acidic lift. All the parts are very harmonized with each other, even just a hint of tannin lurking there too. For my tastes, I’d give this an A- and will keep my eyes open if this ever hits conventional retailers. However, German reds are rarely carried in my typical walk in merchants.
Asimov’s older article is still an interesting read; thanks to Martin for posting the link.
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Necro bump of the year!
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DANKE for putting me on notice for this old article. Eric Asimov was clearly ahead of time. BTW, it was great to meet Stephen Bitterolf in March at the estate Keller for the barrel-tasting.
AND as it fits so perfectly regarding this article. The next big thing at the estate Keller is Chardonnay and Champagne. Spectacular quality thanks to the magic hands of Felix Keller and climate change.
„from year to year Spätburgunder are getting better and better.“
Also good to see that my impressions and predictions in 2010 were true, as the German Spätburgunder developed soo great these days thanks to the improvements of skills by the German winemakers and of course climate change.
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@Arv_R is our exhumation specialist! And I really enjoy it as it brings up old threads I didn’t know existed. Thank you!
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That’s the article that sparked my interest to explore German Pinot. Pretty cool that @Robert_Dentice played quite a part in that tasting taking place as well.
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I was only in attendance. Back then it was nearly impossible to find Spätburgunder in the U.S. I did organize the followup to that a couple of years ago.
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Hmm, Keller Felix now retails for >$500 in the US.
That‘s domestic price as well, most recently more like 700-800 Eur, depending on the vintage. Some vintages (or at least batches) were auction only.
“Buy German Pinot Noir now before it follows burgundy into the unaffordable stratosphere.”
Jancis Robinson in spring 2018
Vince,
you are talking about an auction wine I guess, so they are always much higher in price. Keep in mind!
AND not every Spätburgunder from Keller is going ballistic pricewise, as the Keller „Bürgel“ Spätburgunder GG cost around 70€ at the estate.