Pinot, Meritage and !WHAT?!

2005 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve -
Surprisingly dark color with some bricking. The aromas feature ripe red cherry, woodsy notes, and an unexpected saline lift. The palate is lovely, tannins resolved, with enough acidity remaining for freshness. It offers elegance and subtlety, fully mature but in no danger of fading. Rated 91.5.

2008 Beringer Vineyards Meritage Knights Valley -
Dark color, simply plummy aromas. This has agreeable heft and is nicely balanced. That said, the flavors are simple, with one-dimensional red fruit. This is well made, an agreeable beverage at 16 years of age, fully mature but finally pretty boring. Rated 82, drink up.

2004 Economou Antigone, Crete -
Light to medium garnet color. The aromas offer exceptional breadth, with red cherry, subtle fresh herbs, roses and violets. The texture coats the mouth just as the aromas envelop the nostrils. There are layers upon layers of both fresh and dried red fruits and mountain herbs, with an intertwined hint of blueberry. I have no idea what grapes are in this; the producer’s web site seems frozen, probably has not been updated since Minoan times.
I cannot compare this to any other grape; it doesn’t seem related to the Atlantic types (Cab & Merlot), Mediterranean types (Grenache, Syrah) or continental (Pinot, Nebbiolo). But this is very great wine, possessing that rarest characteristic: It is weightless. Gorgeous is a trite understatement. Rated 97, mature.


As good a time as any for one of my favorite jokes:

An ancient Greek walks into a tailor shop with a couple of torn tunics.

The tailor says, “Euripides?”

The customer says, “Eumenides?”

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