Visit 3 – G.D. Vajra
Next up was the short drive across to the village of Vergne for an appointment with G.D. Vajra.
By now I must be sounding like a broken record, but such is the epic, breathtaking scenery of Piedmont that it was truly impossible to resist pulling the car over to the side of the road for yet another photo opportunity.
I received many bemused and concerned looks from locals who perhaps disapproved of my parking skills as they navigated the steep, narrow and often blind corners only to find this foreigner with his hire car perched perilously on the side of a vineyard slope, hazard lights blinking away as he happily snapped away on his camera phone – this time of Castiglione Falletto.
As I would learn multiple times throughout this trip, Italian street addresses and GPS units aren’t always a good mix – many of the secondary roads rarely seem to exist in the list of known streets. With this in mind, I’d highly recommend taking the time to pre-load the addresses into your map/phone/car so you’re not having to madly steer with one hand and work the GPS with the other – harder still with a few tastings under your belt. Unfortunately I didn’t heed this advice when heading to G.D. Vajra and alas, I was dumbfounded to find there was no such address according to my phone. Computer says no!
In saying that, is there really anywhere else you’d rather get lost than Piedmont?
As I snaked around the busy roads leading into Barolo town, I was captivated by the magnificent Castelli Falletti which stood proudly and regally above the town having endured many centuries of wars, invasions, neglect, renovations and now tourists.
I fortuitously spotted a roadside cheese and charcuterie van that looked like the ideal tourist information point in my time of need. There I found the most magnificent collection of assorted small goods. Unfortunately I was too flustered about arriving on time and eating was the last thing on my mind. Incidentally, I returned later in the afternoon to sample his wares, but it was too late – sadly he’d already moved on.
Thanks to the cheesemonger’s animated hand gestures (directions), it wasn’t too long until I was at my destination. The village of Vergne is a mere few kilometres from Barolo town, perched at one of the highest spots in Barolo at around 400m above sea level. It’s no wonder the cheese monger kept pointing to “up there”!
The nondescript house at the front of the winery makes you wonder in doubt whether you’re actually where you need to be – surely many visitors before me have done multiple passes up and down the street looking for the miniscule “Vajra” sign. Once inside, you head down their driveway where the large, modern winemaking facility awaits, perfectly hidden away from the roadside.
My motivation to visit G.D. Vajra had been driven by recent critical acclaim from their 2012 and 2013 releases. I don’t know whether they have become victims of their own success, but unfortunately this visit would not live up to expectations or the high standard set by other visits in Piedmont.
I arrived in the tasting room ahead of schedule for my appointment, but was told that I would instead be joining in with another group that had already commenced their visit some half an hour earlier. I had thought this might not be such a big deal, until I realised that they had all but finished their tour and were back to the facility. No winery tour for me…
As a result, I didn’t get to capture much of the history of the winery and instead, shall rely upon my online research to fill in the blanks.
G.D. Vajra were started in the early 1970s by Giuseppe Domenico Vajra. Today, the operation is on to the fourth generation of family winemakers, continuing the legacy that started back in the 1940s when the vineyard was first planted. The winery still employs mostly traditional methodologies in the production of its wines preferring aged Slovenian oak for at least 30 months on the Barolos. I did spot a number of used barriques that are utilised for some of the other wines in the expansive range.
Perhaps one of the features of the winery is their incredible stained glass window features that were designed by a Franciscan monk – the late Father Costantino Ruggeri. My research reveals an amazing portfolio of artistic works to his name well worth a look - WORKS - Padre Costantino Ruggeri and Colors - G.D. Vajra.
Whereas most wineries you’ll encounter favour utilitarian and functional design rather than aesthetics, it is clear that G.D. Vajra have set about to do something different from the norm. The vibrant, electric colours create a visually stunning display contrast against the stainless steel tanks, making you feel part underwater and part in some sort of hallucinogenic nebbiolo induced haze. I would have loved to have heard the story about the genesis of the windows (pun intended) but unfortunately I missed out.
Before long we were back in the tasting room where we would taste through a number of G.D. Vajra’s current releases. I could have sworn we tasted more wines than just the three below, but my notes make no reference to any others and the frugal offering does seem consistent with the overall rushed feel of the visit.
Wine 1 – 2016 Langhe Riesling
- Comes from fruit at La Morra and Serralunga sites
- Planted from vine cuttings originating from Alsace and Germany
- GD Vajra were the first to plant Riesling in Langhe
- Picked earliest of their grapes
- The colour is a clear and translucent with the slightest gold tinge
- Has a pretty, floral perfumed nose
- Has a pleasant acidity, but not quite as sharp as I’m accustomed to with say a Clare Valley Riesling (for example)
- On the palate lemon/lime citrus notes with a little spice
- Finished off nicely with a touch of residual sugar, but not too much
- Pleasant drinking
Wine 2 – 2014 Barbera d’Alba
- Carries the ‘Superiore’ designation – wood aging and at least 12.5%+ alcohol
- Has a vibrant purple/red hue
- Dark red fruits on the palate, which impart a richness, but not too sweet
- Oak seems to contain the fruit well
- Nice acid – lower than other examples I’d tasted
- All in all, a very nice wine
Wine 3 – 2013 Barolo Brico Delle Viole
- 32 months aging in large format oak
- Bright ruby red colour
- Very fine tannins with nice grip and structure
- On the nose , some nail polish/varnish/VA, but in a pleasant way
- Not sure whether the bottle was too fresh, but fruit not showing much yet
- Seemed to be hiding behind the oak a little
- Amazing acid – should be good in time
- Long term proposition
I had considered purchasing a bottle of the BDV, but was politely told it wasn’t yet for sale from the cellar door, despite it being available for retail purchase in and around the region, not to mention being available 16,000kms away back home in Melbourne, Australia!
All things considered, it was a somewhat disappointing visit. As you’ve probably gleaned from my posts thus far, I take a great deal of interest in learning about the people, the history, the lands and the wines of the producers I visit. Regrettably my experience wasn’t conducive to furthering my understanding of any of these.
Overall Rating – 2.5 out of 5.0
