I like Paul’s wines a lot. He is super-fanatical about quality and routinely cuts a number of the few barrels he has out of his final blends. The wines are concentrated yet elegant, not too big or heavy. He uses a good deal of new oak, so I think it’s best to wait a few years for the oak to better integrate on his wines but they are still tasty when young. Plus he’s a really nice guy with endless stories to tell.
Here are a few notes from a visit with Paul about 2 years ago:
Barrel Samples
'06 Solomon Hills Pinot Noir from one-year old François Frères half-barrel, 115 clone: dark cherry, slightly tart, some spice and coffee notes, oak in the background
'06 Gold Coast Pinot Noir from new François Frères barrel, Martini clone: slight funk that blew off quickly, bright raspberry, tea leaf
'06 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir, 113 clone: darker color, intense raspberry aromas, velvety mouthfeel and good finish
'06 Bien Nacido Syrah, Estrella clone, 5% Viognier, new barrel: meaty, blackberry, moderate tannins but smooth mouthfeel. Just one barrel produced, the wine will be called “Bona Fide”
Current Releases
'05 Gold Coast Pinot Noir “Duende”: raspberry / black cherry, very good acidity
'05 Bien Nacido Syrah “Skywatcher”: rich blackberry fruit, some meat and oak notes, touch of spice, moderate tannins, great acidity, excellent wine that should age well. This is from the two rows of fruit that Paul gets from Bien Nacido.
'05 Larner Syrah “Cinamatique”: from Estrella and 877 clones, 7% Viognier, 50% new oak, very rich, deep fruit, spicy, floral hints, bigger, riper wine than the Bien Nacido
And some notes on a couple of Paul’s earlier wines from about a year ago:
2003 Paul Lato “Duende” Pinot Noir, Gold Coast Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley (13.8%): Medium color, black cherry, strawberry, rhubarb, and spice aromas. Medium-bodied, with red fruits and baking spice coming through in the mouth, just enough vanilla/oak to accent the flavors, and good balancing acidity. Very silky mouthfeel and long finish with just a hint of tannin. A lighter and more elegant style than many Santa Barbara County Pinots, this should continue to show well for several more years.
2003 Paul Lato “Quo Vadis” Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley (15.1%): Medium-dark color with a blue-purple tinge, big ripe plum and darker fruit aromas with some underlying notes of black pepper. Fairly rich on the palate, sweet fruit that still seems somewhat primary, medium tannins with an interesting spice element on the finish. Right now, the ripe sweet fruit is perhaps a bit too dominant but despite the 15+ alcohol it’s beautifully-balanced, and my guess is that this wine is still several years away from its prime drinking window.