Pairing Wine with Modern New Orleans cuisine

Next month we are headed back to New Orleans for the first time since Katrina. In our previous trips we have always gone the way of the best dive food we could find (with Abita), but on this trip we are going to hit up some of the high end places. Any opinions as to what types of Reds will go well with the chefs food from August/Stella!/Cochon type joints? Im deep in CA syrah (thinking SQN/Saxum/Alban ect) and young CDP ( I know pairs with anything [cheers.gif] ) but Im wondering if these will overpower the menus on a whole?

Generally we would buy a lesser white or sparkler off the list and then bring a high end red. But Im wondering if bringing a high end white might be a better plan with the cuisine? If so I will have to start sourcing as Im lacking in depth of white wine. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

None of those places are Cajun. Think French more (via Creole.)

A.

Pretty solid wine lists to begin with. Just remember a bit of salt in the dishes at Cochon.

How did I know that was coming…any wine recommendations?

R.

T-Bone,

Im positive of that, but Im also guessing the wines I would really enjoy (or lust) are out of my comfort zone.

August: Lots of seafood, vegetables, poultry. I would be thinking whites and light-to-medium bodied reds. $zero corkage, if I’m not mistaken.

Stella!: Complex ingredients and flavors, favoring crisp whites, Champagne, higher-acid reds.

Cochon: Cajun indeed. Think fruity “bistro wines” - Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Zinfandel, and similar.

Unsolicited suggestion: Dine at Herbsaint, order the slow-cooked lamb neck with butter beans, feta, and herbs, and wash it down with a value priced Barolo off their list (when I was last there, 1998 Oddero Brunate for well under $100). http://www.herbsaint.com/

Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I was trying to make the point that it is not nearly as problematic as you think. I meant you should think about pairings in the same way you would with (assuming) more familiar French-styled dishes. The proteins might be different and the spicing unique, but really the roots of pairing should be on what you like with the level of fat, protein and means of cooking. Even Cochon is not spiced-to-the-nines Cajun (maybe better put - Cajun is more than spicing and Cochon goes that route) - pairing is really not perilous.

That said, when we lived there one of our favorite places was Alex Patout’s. On the list there were wines from across the lake. Yes, they were hybrids but they were blended in a way and with some residual sweetness to be absolutely brilliant pairings with that style of food. One of the best pairings I’ve ever had was a slightly off-dry white from there with a crab-corn bisque.

I think people worry way too much about it and the staff at all of those places are well ready to assist. I second Robert’s recommendation of Herbsaint too.

A.

Glad to see this recommendation. My wife and I are heading this way on Friday, for a long weekend, Herbsaint is the one reservation I made…

Yes thanks all,

Herbsaint is also on the list of to do’s as well. Cochon will probably be for lunch. After looking online I cant find any of these restaurants wine lists though. Can anyone comment as to the affordability of the lists? I would be perfectly happy if say good beaujolais was available, trophy wines are not needed, but I would feel a bit odd carrying in a beaujolais.

The Commander’s Palace has a ZOMFG list, and if you’re willing to buy a pricey bottle their markups get very low (basically close to retail) on high-end wines. Very helpful waiters/sommeliers as well. I had a delightful 1990 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale there for I think $120.

Pretty sure none of the Besh restaurants have a corkage fee if you want to go that route.

As mentioned many times August (as are all the John Besh joints in NOLA) is free corkage so enjoy. Like Mr Fleming said think White Burgs and I would say you’d be ok with robust reds so if you’ve got aged Central Cali Syrah this is the place. Stella used to have a great Pinot list but last time there I felt the wine program lacking. Cochon can be tougher wine spot if there for dinner, I would order food and then ask for help from their list.

The Stella! list confirms your worst fears: http://www.restaurantstella.com/pdf/stella_wine.pdf

As mentioned above, Herbsaint’s list is reasonably priced, and includes some real bargains.
I would expect the same at Donald Link’s other restaurant, Cochon.

Plus you just got to wonder how many of those old Burgs and Bords are Katrina bottles!

I seriously doubt any of those bottles are pre-Katrina bottles. I’ve eaten at Stella several times since Katrina and have never noticed anything that would make me question the condition of any of the wines I’ve been served. Anyway, most NOLA restaurants filed insurance claims post-Katrina and turned their cellars over to their insurers. I heard from a pretty good source that one insurer put a prominent restaurant’s stock on a container ship bound for South Africa . . . .

I was in NOLA last weekend. i would pass on cochon unless you are going for lunch. we were there for dinner sitting at the bar in front of the kitchen. the chef expeditor had a terrible habit of continually rubbing his hands on his face nose and mouth. if i hadn’t worked in restos for 20 years it would have freaked me out but in an open kitchen that is a no no even more. beyond that though the food was just ok. the oyster pie and the fried boudin were probably the best of the 12 things we had. the brisket which so many online raved about was bland and all i could think was i wish i was in austin for good brisket. the baby back rib app was dry and chewy although very flavorful. the chairs are insanely uncomfortable.

The venerable Clancy’s was delicious and they have a pretty rockin wine list. The rabbit sausage en croute was simply divine (maybe the best ever) as were old standby crab remick and who doesn’t love that lemon icebox pie for dessert (which the waiter told us came from the caribbean house)? I think Dominiques and Lilette might be two of the best restaurants in NOLA right now but I really like Bacchanal out in the bywater neighborhood. dining is all outside, on paper plates and you order from a food truck that is being used as a kitchen but the food is seriously good for what it is. They have a wine shop inside along with a few spirits too. You can buy the wine and they will pop and pour for you. We bought 4 bottles for a little over $100.
http://www.bacchanalwine.com/ If you drive or take a taxi to bacchanal be sure to keep to 25mph on Chartres; they have a camera speed trap set up. our taxi driver was bummed.

I miss Clancy’s so much. We lived less than a block from there. It is a truly a 'yat place in a deep way. I was told the lemon icebox pie was someone’s Mom’s recipe and still have a handwritten copy of the recipe somewhere.

A.

What a great restaurant, have not been there since the storm.