Pairing (very) old Bordeaux / Napa wines with food

My dad has a bunch of old wines in his cellar that we want to drink soon as they’re likely anywhere from late prime drinking window to way over the hill - may even host a gathering or two with wine friends to taste a bunch of them. The wines are mostly 1970-1985 Bordeaux and Napa cabs, with some 80s Burgundy as well. My Q is: how do you all think about what food to enjoy with such aged wines? I’ve seen suggestions to keep the food simple - i.e. steak (perhaps leaner cuts) seasoned with just salt + pepper and potatoes. Is that consensus advice? Does something like roast chicken work better for much older bordeaux varietals, or is red meat still the go to? Could also do smaller bites, cheeses, etc. Or would you try and be more creative…

There are many on the board more knowledgeable than myself, but I have definitely found that simpler foods go well with older more delicate wines. I think red meat for these wines is fine, though maybe towards a cut like filet rather than a big tomahawk steak. I think it has to do with the general approach to the food. A big slab of steak with a strong tasting sauce, fried potatoes, a pile of creamed spinach suits younger bold wines better than a smaller simply seasoned filet, with some roasted or mashed potatoes, and wilted spinach, which would fit the sort of wines you’re talking about. The basic components are the same, but the aesthetics are different.

Also, why do you say these wines are most likely over the hill? Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa Cab from the 70s and 80s very well may be fantastic, depending on the storage, producer, and your luck, of course.

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I’d make it a wine event and just serve cheese and crackers, personally. Maybe pate, too.

If you do want food, I agree with simple prep and sauces. You don’t want to stomp on the wines. Leaner cuts and smaller portions IMO.

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Not all of them, but some of the weaker vintages from say the 1970s I assume are at best a crapshoot at this point. Also based on whatever CellarTracker commentary I could find from recent years; some seem to be predictably still in terrific shape, others not so much.

A lot of these wines will be relatively fruitless in comparison to modern wines. So focus more on “sous de bois” flavors. Mushroom tarts, stinky cheeses, root vegetables roasted, etc…

Now granted - if 82 and 85 are the primary vintage for Bordeaux they may be sublime wines since there was some heat along the way to harvest. And if you have an 83 Margaux post a note!

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I would avoid cheese. It’s a palate destroyer, especially the stronger ones, and will obliterate any nuance in delicate wines. The presence of complimentary flavors does not automatically mean a pairing is good.

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Agree with snacks. Good cheese, high quality cured meats, olives etc. If it’s got to be dinner I’d usually do something like roasted sliced lamb with roasted potatoes and green veg and mushrooms.

Mushroom tart is an excellent idea — and very minimalist meat. Keep it simple. Seconding the request for a note on 83 Margaux if you have it. Having tasted it a few years ago I bet 83 Margaux will surprise you with its power and vigor — mine nearly ripped my head off a couple of years ago.

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I remember a winemaker telling me that “I buy wine eating apples and sell it with them eating cheese.” :wink:

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+3 for mushrooms. Also agree with JBierly on stinky cheese, roasted root vegetables:

Meat: Organ meats.

Keep that funk going.

On cheeses I have read that cave aged may have more earthy notes - but I think that is what you are looking for. The mushroom tart was not my idea - one of my chef friends made food for a 2008 Bord tasting that I did and he came up with it. Very magical pairing indeed.

Mushroom risotto another good option here, goes very well with basically any aged wine red or white.

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I would say focus on this more than having perfect food. Sounds like you have a opportunity to try some great wines side by side and wines from that time frame are not all that easy to come by. I would try to have them in some kind of context, vintage/location. Have a great day with friends and wine and don’t stress that it’s not a perfect match with the food. Just roast some lamb, potatoes and some veg, it will go great with all of the wines.

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All good suggestions above. I might lean towards Duck.

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Oh, yeah! +1.

Simple Roast lamb , lightly seasoned, no garlic is your friend for mature claret. Or veal.

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Simple is the way to go. Beef tenderloin with salt & pepper and maybe some thyme and rosemary, a mushroom ragout or mushroom risotto as suggested would be lovely, and haricots verts.

Save the cheeses for after dinner to enjoy with the remnants of the better bottles.

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I like the suggestions by Richard and Chris. Those are my normal choices with mature claret. You do not want food to overpower elegant wines.

Simply prepared meat or fowl, mushrooms are a good idea , no cheese

And no reason to think well stored older 70s Bordeaux from the better vintages will be over the hill . My success rate has been very high

Of course if you’re talking 1974…