I returning tonight to a wine I brought to an offline last evening. It was a 2001 Pertamali Livio Sassetti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva. I would say that it is on me that the wine did not show well, in that I was not familiar enough to know that a Brunello Riserva, notwithstanding it’s age, requires breathing and decanting. There was perhaps about 25% or less in the bottle after last night, and I enjoyed it along with a grass fed Angus steak, served with pan roasted garlic and shallots and olive tapenade. The nose was really very forward: floral, violets, black cherries, leather, tobacco. On the palate, the minerality was a new development; though the wine was still tannic, tight, and burly, and the only sediment noted appeared to be tartrate chrystals.
I don’t imagine that my question has to do with only this wine though; it is perhaps something I have never understood. When an older wine has a very forward bouquet, yet is still quite tannic and tough on the palate what conclusion might be drawn from this. Does it augur well for the future, or possibly does it not signify in any way, or might it be problematic?
With todays’ vinification and bottling techniques I don’t think you can call a good '01 Brunello Riserva even “ready”, let alone “older”. It’s hard to accept maybe, but potentially great wines of this age will likely still be quite youthful, and Brunellos aren’t soft to begin with! Extended breathing time (preferably an all day slow-o for my tastes, with a small taste removed initially to enlarge the surface area to silver dollar size) will help a wine like this, but it will likely still show that it would like more cellar time!
Would agree in general with Paul’s comment. I haven’t tried the Riserva, but I have had Pertimali’s Normale from this vintage multiple times and it still shows as a young wine. As does their '99.
When an older wine has a very forward bouquet, yet is still quite tannic and tough on the palate what conclusion might be drawn from this
The nose and the tannins are independent progressions, though tannins can affect your perception in the mouth. I wouldn’t exactly call an '01 older. The nose itself sounds youthful, other than the use of the word “bouquet”, which is usually reserved for tertiary aromas. So, my best guess with this particular wine would be if you enjoy it now with an extended decant and a food pairing that helps tame the tannins, then you already know what to do, but it should evolve dramatically.
I’ve had very mature wines where the tannins were too prominent. It happens. Maybe in some cases the fruit had been big enough at younger points to balance it out better. Other wines just may have always been out of whack.
When an older wine has a very forward bouquet, yet is still quite tannic and tough on the palate what conclusion might be drawn from this.
I was going to say pretty much what Wes said. I don’t think any conclusion can be drawn.
Some wines don’t offer much on the nose but they’re surprisingly wonderful on the palate. Some wines that seem like they’ll be fruit bombs are tough and bitter and tannic. Maybe some of those will soften a bit. Generally after 13-14 years, you should see some development. That doesn’t mean “ready”, just that you start picking up some notes of a mature wine.
If there’s enough of everything else, when big tannins resolve, you will have a good wine. But there’s no guarantee that just because a wine is tannic when young, it’s going to age well.
As Wes said, some wines are just out of whack and they won’t magically become in whack, if there’s such a thing.
Or the tannins might eventually fade and leave you with nothing of any particular interest.
I want to thank all of you for your input. I knew from opening a couple of 2001 Barolo that in such a great vintage it was really a mistake to pop those corks as they were nowhere near ready to drink. I do admit my ignorance about the Pertamali Brunello Riserva; I had no clue that Sangiovese could be such a powerhouse and it may have been my first Riserva ever. I do realize that it isn’t necessarily possible to know with certainty where a wine may end up. Now I do understand that it cannot really be thought of as an “older” wine.
John I did put the cork back in and refrigerated it.
Leonard - Sangiovese is vastly underrated. Because in some iterations it can be inexpensive, people don’t think it can age. If the prices tripled, people would be talking about how it needs aging. Kind of like Chateauneuf du Pape. But I think it is one of the better bets these days if you have the time.
I had already acknowledged that the wine is nowhere near mature~ see below:
“Now I do understand that it cannot really be thought of as an “older” wine.”
Gregg I certainly agree with you about the aging ability of Sangiovese. I think the 2004 Felsina Rancia is not ready, and they can age handsomely.
My experience following bottles of Sangio over time is limited, but I had heard how it could really transform, as Greg mentioned. Ridge got some vines when they bought the Lytton property and put out a few vintages (97-99 iirc) as part of their ATP program, which I was a member of. On release they were okay, light easy drinkers, but not exactly exciting. About six years after release I finished mine - still pretty ho-hum. Then Allen Bree brought a couple to an event at about 12 years. Both were in a whole new place, and one of them was absolutely spectacular.
I can certainly attest to the quality of some fully mature Brunello, but haven’t had the experience of following a specific wine like that.
Extended breathing time (preferably an all day slow-o for my tastes, with a small taste removed initially to enlarge the surface area to silver dollar size) will help a wine like this, but it will likely still show that it would like more cellar time!![[wow.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/7/7d450e9830889c8943b674446a21b7254cad657e.gif "wow"){kind=small}
.