older article;Beyond terroir(Royal Anthropological Institute)

Beyond terroir: territorial construction, hegemonic discourses, and French wine culture ,by Marion Demossier University of Bath

Starting from the anthropological investigation of Burgundian viticulture, my article examines the
major issues attached to the territorial construction of the French wine industry around the concept
of terroir.

How 'bout a little summary/inducement to read the 21 pages, Roman?

It seems like it might be interesting…maybe…but… you obviously read it and posted it for a reason???

Interesting article in spite of the overwrought, overly academic, stilted style.

Basically covers the evolution of the conception of terroir, specifically Burgundy. Initially the AOC was developed by and on behalf of the wealthier and more powerful landowners, quelle surprise! The idea involved social and human elements that more recently has become more locked into geology, which makes sense because the people with the preferred geology can charge more money and that today is the thrust of the argument for recognition as a world heritage site - the geology rather than any social aspect. Initially the wealthier landowners were trying to cut out the negociants during the economic depression of the 1930s and they marginalized the wine growers, who were peasants. Some peasants ended up getting lucky however.

Geology is now being presented as something unchanging and the marketing of the region is that here is a place that has been making wine the same way for so many years. The author disagrees, pointing out that people did what they saw their parents do and if their parents adopted a practice, that got passed down. In other words, there was always some change. But there was little recognition of a specific row of vines as being all that different from another because even in the 1970s people still rarely tasted each other’s wines and the general idea of taste being aligned with a specific plot has come about since the rise of oenologists and critics. Prior to that, the “tradition” was what each person learned, so one person might stir the lees, another might remove leaves from the vine, another interplanted various grapes, etc.

I oversimplified of course and I’m not sure I agree with all of that - in small closed societies, who else were you going to talk to but your neighbors?

The main takeaway seems to be that the concept of “terroir” has evolved and is evolving, and has a lot to do with marketing and politics.

The last sentence seems pretty non-controversial…at least for one “terroir” being superior to another, when there are so many other factors involved: humans, plant quality, the market, resources of the owners…and…especially…marketing.

I will try to skim the article at some point. Thanks for your thumbnail.

Is that hegemonic with a hard or soft “g”?

sorry,i search every day wine news(articles,links…)many are interesting other not so.
It is more a service for others.
when i think is maybe interesting for somebody,i link to this page.Is not ever interesting for me,my english is insufficient for this 21 pages.
gives also as audio clip.

Well…most of us get lots of links to look at from various people…on various subjects. I am happy to look at something if someone tells me something about a link and it sounds interesting. Just a little description/summary creates that interest.

If not…I usually don’t look at them. Not enough time in every day. Especially to read 21 pages to see if it might be interesting.

Thanks…for the podcast. I will look at that.

Whoops…spoke to soon. 54 minutes…