Last night was one for the ages. My best friend, who is of 1955 vintage, does a truffle dinner every year to celebrate his birthday. We always pull some birth year wine for the occasion. This year happened to also coincide with our dear friend Chris Thile being in town for a concert. Anyone who knows Chris, a 4 time Grammy Award winning mandolin virtuoso, also knows he is a huge neb-head. So Chris came into town a day early to attend our dinner along with his road manager and engineer. The best Italian restaurant in Charlotte is the tiny Aqua e Vino with star chef Gabriele preparing the truffle based menu. We were seated (10) outside in the heated tent. On to the wines.
(All reds except the Gaja were double decanted about 5-6 hours before dinner)
2011 Ulysse Collin Les Perriere x 2
This is one of my favorite bubbles producers. Hard to find this was outstanding. Amazing work in a challenging vintage. Powerful and mouth filling.
2014 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Callerets 1er en magnum
Served with Carne Cruda Piemonte style, heart of celery, cured eggyolk and EVOO. Wow! The matchstick of Coche and the mint of Ramonet. Citrus and white mineral but fleshy on the finish. A wine I wish I could find.
1998 Giacomo Bologna Braida Barbera Ai Suma
Served with Sformatino, cauliflower flan, crema di parmigiano, quail egg and trifola bianca. I had bought a case each of the 1997 and 1998 on release and have been slowly working down to my last few bottles. Deep dark red color with no signs of age. Beautifully resolved tannins and plenty of acidity to make the mouth water. Holiday spice box in spades. Oak is fully absorbed.
The 1961 and 1955 were served with Raviolone, ricotta spinach, egg sorprise, parmigiano, hazelnut butter, trofola bianca.
1961 Giacomo Conterno Barbaresco Riserva
I was a bit concerned when I decanted this at home as the wine was the color of tea and I was afraid it would fade away before serving it. My goodness this wine grew with time. A very solid core of red fruit, faint soft tannins and lovely finish. For those that do not know and were taken aback by the existence of a G. Conterno Barbaresco, Conterno produced both riserva and normale Barbaresco for a hand full of vintages in the late '50s and early '60s.
1955 Cantina Bartola Mascarello Barolo ‘Canubbi’ Riserva
A monument of a wine. Our birthday boys birth year and kiddingly I said this wine has aged better than him. Even along side the 1985 Monfo, this wine just glowed. This is everything great old nebbiolo hopes to be. BTW, the strange spelling of Cannubi on the label was like adding Montrachet to your bottle. As if it needed the added panache. Grapes for this wine were blended sources as Bartolo has always done. A real treat.
The remaining wines were consumed over the next few courses that included Tajarin, prociuutto di parma and parma fondue. Branzino plancha with lemon braised fennel and castelvetrano olives and before cheese, Farona in tecia, son jus with periggord truffle and polenta bianca. BTW, all the other dishes were served with white Alba truffles.
1989 Rocche Dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna d’La Roul en magnum
A wine I have never tasted or seen before. I do not know where Manzoni was at this time regarding the use of barrique but this seemed pretty traditional. Very good shape but my mind was focused on the next two wines.
1985 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino en magnum
This is a wine I have had the opportunity to have tasted numerous times but never from magnum. This wine is at apogee. As complete as Monfortino can and should be. Breathtaking. This can share WOTN with the '55.
1996 Bruno Giacosa Falleto Riserva en magnum
Not far behind was the Giacosa. Very classic red fruited with fresh rose and rose water. Still really young this wine will be ageless. Tannins would benefit from 10 more years.
These got opened as was our want.
1999 Gaja Sperss Langhe
1999 was still during the period that Gaja classified most of his wines as Langhe Rosso due to some Barbera in the wine. This I believe is Serralunga fruit. Really showing well. These wines can be polarizing to the purists but I love them.
1999 Gaja Sori Tildin
Just a few glasses got poured before we wrapped up so this will get consumed with my tomahawk pork chop tonight. Also showed really well.
One last birth year wine.
1955 Reserva Velha Barbetto Bual Madeira
I love old Madeiras. I love Bual though this seemed almost Terrantez like with its acidity and fruit profile. Wonderful with cheese and dessert.
Chris then pulled out his 1924 mandolin and played some songs in honor of the birthday boy.
One heck of a night.