Last Friday , we had a fabulous set of wines , many very old . Remarkably , ALL the corks of the red wines served crumbled in hundreds of pieces when trying to open them , but only one was corked ( alas , a Petrus 59 ) . The others were fantastic . When they are good , these old wines develop aromas that young wines do not offer . The power is gone , in favor of complexity , something I enjoy much more getting older . A couple more of these tastings and I will finally start to believe Francois Audouze .
Dom Perignon 1971 : old but not too old . A very rich wine , wil no hints of oxidation . Golden color , brioche on the nose . An oenoteque wine .
Meursault les Narvaux 2002 d’Auvenay : it was in the same league as the 2 next ones , which says something about this villages wine . Lot’s of extract of course , a distinct style , but def a wow wine .
Montrachet 2004 Comte Lafon : a big success , as it was not oxidized . A refined style , complete opposite of the next wine . Lovely acidity , typical for a 2004 . Ready now but will age well.
Montrachet 2001 DRC : a big rich wine . Not much acidity . Did I mention big ? Little honey on the nose . I like this a lot but it is not for purists .
Then to the red ones .
Petrus 1959 : corked , a nice start .
Petrus 1949 : fantastic nose , so complex . Better than the 2 previous ones I had ( from the same case ) . Everybody around the table was silenced. A monument .
Auxey Duresses 1949 Maison Leroy . Still fresh , not complex ( it’s Auxey after all ) but remarkable for it’s age . Fenomenal lenght and purity .
Chambertin 1952 Bichot . I have no words for this . Earthy tones from Chambertin with lovely truffle , sous bois etc… still fresh , which I think is most important . Old Bichot wines can be so rewarding .
La Tache 1990 : I had to include a younger wine in the tasting , just to see how it would compare . This LT 90 was again different from others I recently had : open for business , very sauvage and rich , almost with a Rhone character… ( the previous one I had 2 months ago was completely closed ) . A power wine from a solar year ( une année solaire , as Bernard Noblet likes to say ) .
La Landonne 1978 Guigal . Not sure but I think it was his first one . Still at peak , powerfull but at that age , the difference between Burgundy and top Rhone is fading . Most tasters were in burgundy.Fantastic complexity . As close to any 100 pointer as I will ever taste .
St. Vivant and Richebourg 1976 Charles Noellat . I did not care too much for the SV but the Richebourg was still delicious . A softer version , reflecting the vintage . Great old burgundy .
Yquem 1955 . A more finesse version . Golden brown color , just about right . Def in the first tier of Yquems ever made .
Madeira Bual 1959 ( with the Cohiba’s ) . A bit young …
Overall , these old wines ( that you can find at auction or in Burgundy if you are really looking ) represent not only history but also a complexity of taste that you don’t find with younger wine . It’s not for every day drinking , but it’s more fun . Of course , we did this completely wrong , way too many wines for 8 people … it would have been much better drinking one or 2 bottles during the whole evening with 2 or 3 people . But anyway , another highlight .