I recently got to explore Kistler and Occidental for the first time and I didn’t hold back apparently (full wines below). The Chardonnay of the night was the 2018 Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard. It was subtle at first (with the 2019 Kistler McCrea Vineyard pulling away for #1 at first taste) …but over time the Vine Hill popped off and impressed like the last firework at 4th of July. It had it all: textural richness, layers of baked spice, lemon curd, and a pure Russian River expression. I wouldn’t mind being stranded on an island with McCrea though and its bright salinity on the palate.
Move over to the Occidental Pinots and it was a tough battle. They were all 2017 vintage and in great condition after 8 years in bottle. I had two favorites in this extensive lineup: 2017 Occidental ‘SWK Vineyard’ Pinot Noir AND the 2011 Kistler Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast. Very different wines but SWK should be enshrined in the temple of Sonoma Pinot Noir for how good it expresses the edge of West Sonoma. Serious power and strength on the aromas and an incredible finish. Concentrated black cherry and herbs, and an impeccable trio balance of acidity, alcohol, and tannin that made this wine simply: ENJOYABLE. But don’t sleep in the older ones. 2011 is one of my favorite underrated vintages for Napa/Sonoma (you gotta look for the best winemakers in the business for '11s). The '11 was shy but showed the tertiary flavors of age that no other wines possessed. Soft and sure of itself, I liked how the dark berry flavors and spices molded together and how the disintegration of structure unveiled a strong sense of place and vintage. You could taste the coolness, which reminded me of Burgundy’s from my favorite vintages 2014 and 2008.
Every bottle got at least one vote for favorite, which goes to show that ALL of these showed up to tell their story. I revisited the '17 SWK last night with a buddy who loves Sonoma and we fell backward at how good this was. Decanted 1.5hrs in bottle and still needed some more time, but we ate slowly and wished we had a magnum!! A textbook example of distilling place in bottle. Bravo to Steve and his daughter Catherine Kistler.
Wines in order:
2023 Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
2020 Kistler Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay Sonoma County
2019 Kistler McCrea Vineyard Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain
2018 Kistler McCrea Vineyard Chardonnay Sonoma Mountain 375ml
2018 Kistler Trenton Roadhouse Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Valley
2018 Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Valley
2014 Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard Chardonnay Russian River Valley
2017 Kistler ‘Cuvee Natalie’ Silver Belt Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2017 Occidental ‘Cuvee Catherine’ Running Fence Vineyard Pinot Noir
2017 Occidental ‘Occidental Station Vineyard’ Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2017 Occidental ‘SWK Vineyard’ Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2017 Occidental Bodega Headlands Vineyard ‘Cuvee Elizabeth’ Sonoma
2017 Kistler Laguna Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
2011 Kistler Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2010 Kistler Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
