Eben Sadie visited Paris a few weeks ago, and his French importer seized the opportunity to organize an event that could only be described as extraordinary.
The setting was the Hôtel de Crillon, where a vertical tasting of Columella and Palladius—the winemaker’s iconic red and white blends, respectively—was held. Unlike Eben’s other wines, which are derived from precise single vineyards, these two cuvées aim to embody “South African wine” by offering unique blends of grape varieties that, while European in origin, have been cultivated in South Africa for decades if not centuries. The grapes for these cuvées are sourced from various terroirs in the Swartland region.
The occasion was a rare chance to discover the estate in the most exceptional way: through a vertical tasting. Such a tasting, in the company of the winemaker, provides insight into the choices and journey of the estate, and even a glimpse into the doubts and questions that arose 20 years ago. It’s a journey through both time and space.
Vertical Tasting of Columella: 2004/2009/2014/2019/2022
The first vintage of this cuvée dates back to 2000. Between 2000 and 2010, in line with the standards of the time regarding the élevage, the wine underwent 24 months of aging, with 40% of the volume in new oak barrels and the grapes were fully destemmed. Since 2010, whole clusters are partially included, the oak aging lasts only 12 months, and new oak accounts for just 10% of the volume.
This evolution mirrors the broader trend in red wine production worldwide: less oak, less extraction, more finesse, and greater vibrancy. But the changes at Eben Sadie’s estate were meticulously thought through. He committed to maintaining a consistent vinification approach for a full decade—from 2000 to 2009. His reasoning was that it is impossible to evaluate the relevance of a method after just one, two, or even three vintages. Ten years, covering a variety of conditions—cool, warm, wet, dry, early, late—seemed to him the minimum necessary.
In 2010, the estate paused to organize its first vertical tasting to gain perspective and better plan for the future. Several significant decisions were made:
- Never exceeding 14% of alcohol,
- A shift to 30–40% whole-cluster fermentation,
- Less punching down,
- A reduction in the percentage of new oak, from 40% to 10%,
- Shorter barrel aging: 12 months instead of 24, followed by aging in large foudres.
Tasting Notes
Columella 2004 (80% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre)
The nose is unmistakably Syrah, with astonishing youthful energy. No tertiary aromas are evident in this 20-year-old South African red—a surprising feat. Black fruit dominates, particularly blackberry, complemented by classic notes of black olive tapenade. With aeration, hints of garrigue and dried flowers emerge. On the palate, the wine is angular and structured, with tannins that slightly dry the mouth, likely due to the use of excess oak at the time. You feel it in the tasting but bring a meat and this is likely to disappear. Nonetheless, the wine retains a vibrant freshness and substantial body.
Columella 2009 (75% Syrah, 23% Mourvèdre, 2% Grenache)
The nose reveals medicinal, herbal notes, with a subtle sweetness. Swirling brings out aromas of garrigue and a fresh, vegetal quality, suggesting grapes that have been picked “al dente”. Surprisingly youthful for a 15-year-old wine, it offers a suave, silky texture with remarkable finesse. The finish is peacock-tailed—long and expressive, with great freshness and personality. Yet, Eben remarks that it doesn’t entirely reflect the Swartland’s identity.
Columella 2014 (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault)
A cooler vintage, with no punching down, less new oak, and more whole clusters—a turning point for Eben’s vision of the wine. The nose carries menthol and camphor notes. The fruit profile shifts to fresher, less opulent tones, with red fruit replacing dark. On the palate, the wine is velvety and far less astringent, with an irresistible elegance. A delicious ensemble.
Columella 2019 (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, Tinta Barocca)
The nose is decidedly Mediterranean, less Syrah-focused, with pronounced garrigue and sun-ripened red fruits. The texture is almost Pinot Noir-like in its finesse, with a touch of milk caramel adding richness. Grenache and Cinsault contribute to the delicate fruitiness. While still youthful aromatically, the wine exudes balance and charm. A great wine in the making, though its finish currently lacks a bit of resonance. My personal favorite that day.
Columella 2022 (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, Tinta Barocca; only 5% new oak)
The nose hints at toasted bread, reminiscent of François Frères barrels, with a touch of vanilla. Swirling brings the fruit forward, with charming notes of garrigue, red berries, and noble floral and herbal undertones. Compared to the 2019, the finish feels slightly less structured, almost a bit diluted —perhaps due to pre-harvest rains. This is nitpicking as the wine shows a lot of qualities.
The youthful vibrancy of the 2004 vintage stood out as the most remarkable revelation. Few would have guessed “2004, South Africa” in a blind tasting. The other takeaway is the success of the estate’s stylistic evolution: the wines today are smoother, more elegant, more defined and more refined.
Vertical Tasting of Palladius: 2003/2009/2014/2019/2022
The first vintage of this iconic white blend dates back to 2002. Eben Sadie emphasized his particular appreciation for the texture of white wines over an expressive aromatic profile: for him, texture takes precedence when it comes to food and wine pairings.
As time went on, we received fewer details about the vinification of the white wines. This pursuit of texture suggests that some grape varieties might undergo malolactic fermentation (subtle buttery flavors hint at this), while others might not, to maintain tension… but this remains to be clarified.
From a technical perspective, the estate quickly transitioned from barrels to demi-muids. By 2016, new oak was entirely phased out.
Palladius 2003 (45% Viognier, 20% Chenin, Chardonnay, 15% Grenache Blanc, 228L barrels)
The nose reveals slightly oxidative notes, a decadent character with white flowers and a dry, honeyed environment. Upon swirling, brandy-like aromas emerge, with hints of toffee and a subtle buttery touch. The acidity is moderate, and the palate exudes indulgence, with a lush, rounded texture offering notes of slightly candied fruits, white flowers, dried fruits, and a hint of hazelnut.
Palladius 2009 (Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Sémillon, Palomino, 600L demi-muids)
A marked reduction in Viognier—much to the delight of discerning palates 
.
This was my favorite wine of the morning, and I suspect I wasn’t alone in that sentiment. As such, my notes are sparse, as the emotional impact was significant—this was nearly a standing ovation.
The nose showcases the sublime profile of South African Chenin Blanc: yellow fruits, citrus, and dry vegetal notes (hay…). The bouquet is both kaleidoscopic and precise.
The balance is masterful, with significant volume, fine acidity lending just the right amount of tension, and an endlessly layered complexity.
A truly sublime wine!
Palladius 2014 (Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Verdelho, Roussanne, Marsanne, Sémillon Gris, Sémillon Blanc, Palomino, Colombard)
This vintage was presented as cool, but I found the wine less fresh compared to the 2009. Acidity is lower, and the balance feels rounder. Chenin Blanc is prominent, evoking an impression of still Champagne, with a faintly animalistic note, baked apple, and richly ripe, almost candied yellow fruits.
The palate is lively enough, but the acidity remains understated, playing a supporting role in the background.
Rich and generous, with additional notes of dry honey, pollen, white flowers, and a touch of toastiness.
This 2014 feels less youthful than the 2009.
Palladius 2019 (Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Verdelho, Roussanne, Marsanne, Sémillon Gris, Sémillon Blanc, Palomino, Colombard)
The nose briefly hints at volatile aromas but never becomes distracting. It is sharp and focused, evoking rhubarb, and already suggests the acidity within the wine.
The palate is very fine, of medium volume, lively, and marked by a delicate acidity that remains subtle. Aromatically, the Chenin shines through, with yellow fruits and dried herbs taking center stage. The wine is both indulgent and complete, displaying a high-pitched quality that feels more northern in character than the other vintages.
Modern, accomplished, and precise. The wine’s linear profile is beautifully complemented by a still-rounded texture.
Palladius 2022 (Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Verdelho, Roussanne, Marsanne, Sémillon Gris, Sémillon Blanc, Palomino, Colombard)
The nose is sharp once more, alternating between Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc characteristics, with notes of gooseberry. Upon swirling, the Cape’s richness emerges, with faint buttery nuances and a fuller, broader texture than the 2019.
The palate is indulgent, full, and dense, yet it retains vibrancy.
A magnificently crafted wine.
A truly exceptional tasting experience in a magnificent room overlooking Place de la Concorde: Eben Sadie undoubtedly left Paris with a few stars in his eyes. So did I.
