Hanging out this afternoon tasting many wines that I don’t usually drink. Which can be disorienting but also enlightening. These were the highlights.
2018 Gilvesy Pincészet Sauvignon Blanc Mogyorós – from Lake Balaton, this is the current release. Volcanic soils, barrel aged, body, texture, ripe golden flavors, but also lovely zip and freshness and technically ‘natural’ leaning. Recognizably Sauvignon Blanc if somebody told you, but not in any of the idioms that I know. In theory, I would drink more of this, but unlikely to be in my local store.
2024 Envínate Taganan Blanco is not news to any of you, but maybe the second time I’ve tasted Envínate so it’s new to me. Salty waxy deep and lively. A standout wine that made us start thinking about what dishes we wanted to eat.
2023 Niepoort O Gaveto Duoro – white field blend that is only for sale to restaurants, as it began as the house white for O Gaveto. Much better than it should be for the price. Won’t bore you with the ‘baby X’ comparisons, but could be a ringer for all sorts of more expensive and prestigious (Chardonnay) wines. Good depth, confidence, poise, and mineral spine. Screaming for seafood, obviously.
2024 Tauss Chardonnay Opok – OG Austrian natural wine producer, but this doesn’t come across as natty. Maybe others know more about the distinctive ‘opok’ soil, but thinking of it as a limestone cognate works for me. Good depth from the extended fine lees aging but also such fine elegance and precision. Great value.
2022 Tomislav Markovic “On the Rocks” Spӓtburgunder – Curious part-time winemaker with tons of viral buzz, making his wine in the Wasenhaus facilities. Again, natural wine but not natty. 50% new oak, but not glossy. Layered grippy and warm, but not too Kaiserstuhl hot and the 75% whole cluster gives fresh lift. Interesting style that I would like to explore, but not exactly widely available.
And fitting the exploration theme, last night was my first wine from Saale-Unstrut: 2023 Hey Naumburg Riesling. Wasn’t sure what to expect. Pretty ripe and full flavored, but I guess every region gets that these days. Crisp minerals emerge with air and there is a cool severity to the structure as well. Structurally I find it interesting, but the flavors are not the most noble version of Riesling I’ve ever encountered. Or is that label/region bias! Would be curious to taste their GG Riesling.