Nor Cal Wine Trip: Big Basin, Rhys, Carlisle, Pisoni/Lucia, Mending Wall/Rivers-Marie, Kutch, Copain

WINE TALK
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I really want to but have work issues that weekend :frowning:

And thanks Brian and I’ll raise you one [stirthepothal.gif] [stirthepothal.gif] [stirthepothal.gif]

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Just to clarify, we do have reds under 15%. In 2013 and 2015, we had three in each. In 2014 we had four. Heck, we’ve even gone as low as 12.8%!

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And the final chapter from our trip is Saturday, which we devoted to COPAIN. The winery sits off Eastside Road and when standing in the parking lot and looking northeast, you can see Carlisle’s winery right across the way–the two are quite close together. The winemaker at Copain is Wells Guthrie, someone who I have known for about 15 years now. I have been tasting with him, since the days when he and Mike Officer were both at the old Copain Custom Crush facility in Santa Rosa, so it’s unique to see them both now in their own facilities, still so close on the map to each other. For context that may be helpful, Copain is the #1 producer in my cellar, and I have put nearly 500 TNs of Copain wines into the CT database. This has created a level of experience to know these wines, the plots and their terroirs.

Over the years, and to something we have talked about several times here on the Board, the wines have changed, with the style evolving starting in the 2006/2007 vintage. What’s changed? Primarily the change is to wines that are more elegant, lighter in ABV, reduced oak and expressions of terroir for where they are grown. Geographically, the change saw the fruit sources (at least pre-Kendall Jackson purchase, which I will cover shortly) move mainly to Anderson Valley. This has translated to a portfolio of wines that typically range in the 12.5-13.5% ABV, wines of medium body, too.

Fast forwarding then to our stop to see Wells, this is the first time I have visited him since the winery was sold to Kendall-Jackson, which I will call KJ for brevity here. The purchase occurred a few months prior to the 2016 harvest, which created obvious change and opportunity. One notable change since that time was the loss of Kiser vineyard, as 2016 will be the last vintage bottled of Kiser. This plot has always been my favorite pinot noir site that Wells has made, with the vineyard sitting right next door to Bearwallow and across the street from Wendling, which too is gone.

Conversely with the changes to the AV sites once under Copain, there is positive change in that the addition of the KJ sites creates broad opportunity for Wells to paint and play with some new sources. One new fact I learned on this trip is that KJ is the largest vineyard owner in Anderson Valley, which came as a surprise to me. Not only do they own Maggie Hawk, which is directly across the street from Kiser, they also own some serious acres to the south, nearby some of the Littorai stuff (which I believe goes into their One Acre). There is also Londer, which some of you may remember–this too is KJ and now part of the fruit mix for Copain.

Beyond the AV sites, there is also a number of Sonoma Coast sites, which sit on the ridgelines situated near Flowers and Peay–so think Camp Meeting Ridge, etc. This means the KJ presence and opportunity for Wells to source out of some cool, ocean proximal plots gives the winery great range to play in the spaces in and around Annapolis. This is exciting, and we tasted a # of barrels from the KJ sources, both from AV and Annapolis, which you will find below.

To set up the notes below, we started with a vertical of Brosseau chardonnay, comparing the vintages of 2009 through 2015. We then transitioned to a vertical of Kiser En Haut, doing 2003 through 2014, skipping a few years due to the wine being sold out or when fires caused no wine to be made. Finally, we ended up in the barrel room, mainly doing a survey of the various 2016 KJ plots that are resting in barrel, as well as some of my old favorites like Brosseau and Hawks Butte syrahs.

It’s important to point out that the winery is in transition, as the KJ 2016 sources will get assessed and then some will make it to bottle for the 2016 Copain portfolio. The range of the sources is huge, the sites are large, the blocks within these sites have different exposures, clones and other differences. Wells needs to get his head around these variants and then figure out which align to the strategy for what he wants to paint. In my view, there is major upside here, as there is plenty of space to play and my sense is that Wells has the freedom to explore, build and use these sites to continue to not only define and advocate for the beauty of AV, but also now build a range and expression for the Sonoma Coast. We will all get to see that unfold, as his inspiration to explore site, with his own burgundian influences, coming together to create the future of the winery. Wells, I appreciated the visit, the time, effort and exploration we did together. Keep going, keep defining what is possible.

You will find some photos below, many of which show the new KJ plots I mentioned.

  • 2009 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.7% ABV. Spicy, golden apple, pear and saline. Lean pineapple, lemon, holding its color well and also maintaining its acidity. This 2009 is cruising right along and developing well.
  • 2010 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.8% ABV. Light reduction in the aromatic, which blew off with some swirling and time in the glass. Bit of tropical here in the aromatic, unctuous. Beautiful texture, and like the 2009, a spicy note. Green apple pops into the finish, along with anise and a beautiful length. This 2010 is really doing well.
  • 2011 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.4% ABV. Lots of acidity here, spicy green apple, then lemon appearing in the finish, joining the minerality/flint. Medium weighted, elegant.
  • 2012 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.4% ABV. This vintage seems rich to me, lacking the green apple of the 2011. Spicy, yet softer quality and some lemony acidity that drinks pretty accessible. I drank my last bottle of this in 2014, and while I enjoyed this, it doesn’t have the energy of the other vintages within the vertical we tasted.
  • 2013 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 12.4% ABV. First time I have drank this wine, which seems kind of odd given all the Copain in my cellar. Pippin apple, lemon zest and oil, light pineapple, finishing with a flinty energy that is cool. No rush on drinking this vintage as it’s built well and of all the vintages of Brosseau chard, it’s the only one in the 12% range, FWIW.
  • 2014 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.3% ABV. Have a couple of these in the cellar, yet not tasted these yet and no previous TNs. Of all the vintages of Brosseau in the vertical, this is the only one that showed grapefruit. It is distinctive and delicious. Some lemon here, too. There is apple tones in the fruit, yet the refreshing acidity is still dominating the fruit. In total, acidity, depth and young, a wine I bet that is going to age well.
  • 2015 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Brosseau chard vertical we did with Wells @ the winery, with this being the only vintage yet to be released. 13.4% ABV. This has the richness of the 2010, and it shows a spearmint quality. Golden apple, lemon, creamy and light pineapple. Kind of a blend of the 2014’s acidity and the texture and depth of the 2010. Really good.

Posted from CellarTracker

  • 2003 Copain Pinot Noir Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 14.1% ABV. This has the old Copain label on it, reminding me of the early days. It’s also the only En Haut that is blended with En Bas–both slopes blended together. And, stylistically, this is about as far from Copain and Wells’ style that I can imagine. Forward, big nose, little fumey with a richer core of dark berry, black cherry candy and jam. Don’t like this style but it’s part of the history and progression of where things were 10+ years ago.
  • 2006 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.3% ABV. I enjoyed this bottle far better than I did back in 2015 when I drank my final one from my cellar. Smoky note, reminds me a bit of the leather/pepper note of syrah. Expansive palate, showing good acidity, balance, herb and drinking great. Based on this bottle, I would say the 2006 is aging well and not fading.
  • 2007 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.5% ABV. I was the outlier at the table, as I mentioned a raisined quality that I was finding in the aromatic, yet others did not. This perception of ripeness was something I had found in my past couple of bottles, influencing me to drink my final bottle a year or so ago. This is the ripest expression of En Haut from the vertical–plush, smooth and some notes of cedar that suggest the aging curve is starting. From my standpoint, especially for those who are drinking CA PN in the lower register of ABV and higher acidity, if I am describing the style you prefer, then drink your remaining 2007 EH. I believe it is moving past its drink window.
  • 2009 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 1,3.4% ABV. I sensed pepper on this wine, but this is completely destemmed. Dark plum, spice, red apple, generous and juicy. This vintage of Kiser continues to drink with a cool fruit core, yet I don’t find the structure in this vintage to suggest it will age or get better.
  • 2010 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 12.8% ABV. I gotta say, this bottle drank better than the one in 2016, when I made a comment that I thought the wine would be best and peaking in the following year. I want to change that comment, based on what I found in this week’s bottle. This is aromatic, deliciously zesty, with red apple, cracked spice and mineral. It also has the razzy berry quality of the best vintages that Kiser can show. My notes are starred here, meaning I also found this to be the best of the early years bottlings, and is drinking great with stuffing to keep going.
  • 2011 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 12.7% ABV. I will maintain my recent comments about this wine, this vintage, and say this is ready to go. 2011 was a tough year fro Kiser, for many wineries given the vintage and this wine simply doesn’t bring the complexity of the best vintages. Tart plum, apple skin, some structure and spice but just lacking the balance and core of great Kiser.
  • 2012 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.2% ABV. This vintage is Kiser EH is just beautiful. Spicy, razzy, dark red apple. Balanced, polish, a bit sexy and great depth. This for me is ‘wow’ Kiser and drinks with energy and fruit that makes this site so great. Beautiful.
  • 2012 Copain Pinot Noir Combe de Gres Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Was opened at the winery as we tasted through a vertical of Kiser En Haut with Wells. This finished the vertical and while not strictly Kiser EH, it is thematic as it sits at the combes between the intersection of the the EH and EB plots. This again tasted beautiful, as good as the bottle that blew me away earlier this year. Dried cranberry/cherry, pomegranate, mineral and ultra purity and balance. Damn, this is such classy PN.
  • 2013 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 12.2% ABV. Tasted next to the 2012, and as good as that wine is, this is equally thrilling. Little reduction/funk here. Polished, balanced, spicy cherry and apple, with my notes showing the word ‘pure’ underlined. The red fruited quality here, with shading of blue, drinks beautifully.
  • 2014 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
    Tasted as part of a Kiser En Haut vertical we did with Wells @ the winery. 13.4% ABV. Floral and perfumey, dark colored, deep with lots of fruit and tannin. Citrus and black raspberry. It’s too soon to drink this vintage of Kiser EH so give it time or lots of air, and then let’s see how it ages forward. Clearly young, with lots of potential.

Posted from CellarTracker

We finished with a mag of 2006 James Berry Roussanne, which is a favorite of Wells.

  • 2006 Copain Roussanne James Berry Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (7/23/2017)
    From magnum, to close out a long day of tasting at the winery. Lime chew, honey, apricot, lively acidity and medium weight and aging well.

Posted from CellarTracker

In terms of the barrels, I jotted a few notes, mainly surrounding the Maggie Hawk vineyard (which we also toured earlier in the day prior to the winery tasting). These wines remind me some of Kiser, in that they show the same zesty raspberry and bright acidity. The Londer plot from barrel was also very good, with red apple, blueberry and the Kiser-like minerality.

Now, to the photos…
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And here I thought I had things down in coordinating a California trip [grin.gif]

You are always wonderfully appreciative of the winemakers and owners you visit, Frank, but do not for a moment think that they are not appreciative to have you and your group up to taste. The kind of insight you guys can provide has to be of tremendous value to them. I know that this is of tremendous value to me. I think that this may be your best work yet, out of many fine, fine posts. I read every word of every tasting note this time. Probably my post of the year at this point—just have to give you kudos which I feel are very well deserved.

Very quickly: Big Basin—I have to make sure I try more of those at the next FallTac—I always at least admire and sometimes very much enjoy them.

Rhys—so great to have some of the stem/tech details included in your notes. Lots of interesting tasting notes in that grouping. I really do need to set aside time to visit Kevin and Jeff on my next tour in fall, 2018.

you or Mike…do you know if any Carricante goes into Planeta’s Cometa?

Carlisle—so appreciated my visit with Mike as well—and I love that Alicante he does. When I asked to taste it, he got a smile on his face and a wicked twinkle in his eye!

Pisoni/Cattleya/Lucia, I was pleased to try the Cattleya wines at last FallTac and always like the personalities in the Lucia wines, though not all of them are strictly in my pleasure wheelhouse.

RM Pinots and Cabs, really like them both—maybe a little less like for some of the other projects Thomas is working on. Mending Wall PS—big as big gets, but I need to source a bottle of that for WineFest V and my PS table I plan to put together.

Kutch–as you know, I am also a big fan of where Jamie has come and where he’s going, and am very glad that Joanna has come onboard to help as well. Definitely appreciate the extensive notes as I mull over my fall release and what to order. We were quite lucky to get Jamie up here for a night and had a great dinner with him with some other Toronto friends.

did you make notes for Model Farm? I bought 2 bottles from the initial release and liked the first one very much–cool climate Syrah notes for sure.

Copain–you are the source point now for them, no question. Sad to hear no more Kiser, which I also felt was one of—if not–their best work, but intrigued to see what Wells may do with the Londer vineyards (loved what Larry and Shirley produced from there) and the close-to-Littorai fruit. Is Ferrington in among that pantheon?

Again, huge thanks for taking the time and effort to post on all this. And top marks for putting up with those sacks o’ wheat who came with you :slight_smile:

maluhia,

Mike

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Mike you’re not helping me in poking fun of Frank. :stuck_out_tongue: hahaha. And for the record I’ve had some very nice wines from you over the years.

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Great reporting, Frank. It was very cool to go through the two verticals, and particularly to get to sample some barrels of prospective new sources. Mine and Frank’s notes are in pretty good agreement for the Brosseau and Kiser. I’m depressed I drank all my 2010 Brosseau Chard long ago, that wine is fabulous. The 15 is a stunner, looking forward to its release.

From the Kiser en Haut bottles, I was actually impressed that the 03 is holding up as well as it has. Agree with Frank that I’m very happy that Wells shifted direction, but that 03 was still quite enjoyable. Somehow we saw the 07 differently, as I found it to be actually less ripe than some other wines, with some great mouthwatering acidity. 13 and (particularly) 14 were both young, brooding, backward, showing great potential for a long, long life.

For folks interested in what’s coming down the pike from new sources, I did take some notes on the barrel samples (some names may change when they get officially labeled):

2016 Wild Ridge Chard - really nice depth, good minerality, bright saline umami notes, Sonoma coast near Peay. Excellent.
2016 Boone Ridge Chard - beautiful intensity, nice saline and mineral. Excellent.
2016 Pinot Kiser en Haut - 50% stems, light floral nose, gorgeous elegant med cherry/strawberry, very nice fine structure, more elegant than recent vintages.
2016 Pinot Maggie Hawk #1 pommard clone, very nice med dark cherry, touch marionberry a la wendling, really nice.
2016 Maggie 2a Wadenswil clone, darker more structured, more savory should be a great backbone in the blend.
2016 Maggie 14 clone 115, beautiful darker fruit, hint of spice, outstanding
2016 Pinot Annapolis - very rich dense cherry, lush, larger framed, tasty.
2016 Pinot Londer - swan clone, delicious intense dark cherry, savory note, very tasty, quite rich but nicely controlled

Finished off with a mag of 2006 James Berry Roussanne: lovely nose, bees wax, fabulous waxy, honey, mineral, apricot pit, Outstanding.

Thanks again to Frank for setting this up, and for allowing me to join in [cheers.gif]

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Thanks for the very,very great information in your notes. Did you get to try any of the Maggy Hawk wines?

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Alan has notes for the Maggie Hawk wines in the post before yours.

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Alan, thanks for the notes on the barrel samples (which I missed). The barrel samples on the new vineyards sound very intriguing!

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Epic thread, thx for all of the notes!

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Alan, big thank you for covering off on those KJ source barrels–thank you. I had forgot a few of the tentative names, and like you said, if Wells uses those sources than I am sure he will want to brand them in a way that makes sense for his portfolio, and probably more importantly, reflective of the site’s inspiration.

To everyone else that has read this thread and/or commented, thank you. I love this site and community here because we can share this kind of stuff that people who drink these wines/producers can find value in the information. I am but one palate, as much as Alan, Mike, Brian, etc are the same. When we accord too much power, influence and elevation to single palates in our hobby, we give up the importance of community and diminish our own palate’s value.

I challenge people on this Board to share their TNs, their views on wines they have tasted and post them. This is the best way, using the leverage of this site, to elevate all of us in the evaluation of wine, not just a small cadre of the few.

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I am so sad

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You should have been there! [swearing.gif]

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Any idea where the Kiser fruit will be going?

I thought Wendling was a joint development between Copain and Littorai?

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Rat, having to deal with elderly family member issues so it was not an option.

Next year!

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Very well said, we mustn’t forget this :wink:

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Epic is the correct word. This was an epic wine trip. Really enjoyed meeting the other berserkers, Alan, Brian Mike, etc. Thank you FCM3 and all the very enjoyable time.